So I want to replace my A/C manifold hose, but it mounts to the block and both allen head bolts stripped immediately with hardly any pressure applied.
I am not savvy with my options from here, but it needs to come out. I don't care about the manifold hose that surrounds it.

It is both recessed, and I do not have a straight 90 degree shot at it either so I cannot use an easyout.

Any suggestions on how to get this out?

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Two suggestions:

1. Epoxy a hex bit driver in place and after the epoxy dries try removing it; or,

2. Purchase bolt extractors, the type that go over the head of the bolt like a socket. The socket end is fluted internally and grabs the exterior head of the bolt as you turn it out.

Good luck, you will get them out.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

If you can procure the one for 13mm bolts, it will grab that allen head.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

Similar to the epoxy solution.. weld something to it..a hex key...a socket might be better...

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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

If you can remove more sometimes that is best - does this part actually mount directly to the block or is there a bit in between? If so removal of the bit in between often seems like more work but in my experience it isn't always the case. There's nothing better than decent access.

Whilst I agree with the gluing and welding and gripping options it sounds to me like you're about to remove the head of the screw and leave the thread behind...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Use a reverse drill bit they have them

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

I was in PNP in Nov, cold was snowing and cold removing the Pressure Plate off a 81 Euro W123 300D. The last bolt of the 6 had the head already stripped. Did I mention cold? and it was closing time, and a 617 38# FW was almost mine.

Bought the 4 bits set of Triple Square from O`Rileys. come in 6,8,10 and 12mm. With a Hammer I drove home the 8MM into the head of the bolt and she came right out.

Don`t know how much room you have, but this could work for you.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I have had success with taking a nut, holding over the end of the offending fastener and welding through the hole in the nut with a MIG until it is filled. Then get a wrench on it while it is still hot. The heat of the welding will help loosen the threads.

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I choose to be happy, even when the Mercedes is being awkward, lol

I had the same problem removing the star head bolt (the last one) trying to remove it. Used a wire welder and welded one of the head bolts just taken out. Hammered the threaded bolt into the stripped head bolt, put a good bead on it. Applied a breaker bar to the star tool and out it came.

Can you get in there with a die grinder and grind away the bracket surrounding the bolt then grab the remainder with vise grips and back it out. I have also ground a slot into the offending bolt and used a straight screwdriver bit in a ratchet to back out the old bolt. This again only works if the bracket is expendable because you cut the groove into it also. If space is tight dremel makes small cut off wheels. Just takes longer

Ps2cho,

I was wondering what method you ended up using to get them out. Yup, I'm having the same problem you had.

I already tried the epoxy route. I used JB Weld and let it cure for 24 hours. When I tried to remove the bolt, the 6mm Allen socket still spun in the bolt.

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1984 300D 398K-daily driver
1998 Honda Accord 102K -wife's daily driver
1991 Volvo 740 289K
2000 Toyota Corolla 143K

Buying. Triple square or a torx bit and hammering it in always worked for me.

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

I've had good luck hammering in a torx socket as well

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