get the WVO the same to the Diesel Viscosity? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MB300Dave · #16 08-16-2013, 12:38 AM

Nice read guys, thanks. Now all I have to do is get my 84 300D on the road.

Dave

Phillytwotank · #17 08-16-2013, 07:26 AM

VO and MO will not mix... Blah blah blah scientific terminology.

scottmcphee · #18 08-16-2013, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jadavis

I had my tank out for cleaning a couple of weeks ago. While I was in there I added a 100 Watt pad heater. Just in case a cold snap catches me unprepared I can plug in the block heater and the tank heater and at least have a chance at getting it started!

Bought it from Amazon, Kats silicone heater pad, 100 Watt, 4 inch by 5 inch.

Jim

If nothing can flow in the line running from the tank and front of car, what's the point of warm tank and warm block? Wouldn't you need to heat the line too? Maybe one of those electrical wraps that are meant to prevent plumbing pipe freeze and bursts.

biopete · #19 11-22-2014, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmcphee

If nothing can flow in the line running from the tank and front of car, what's the point of warm tank and warm block? Wouldn't you need to heat the line too? Maybe one of those electrical wraps that are meant to prevent plumbing pipe freeze and bursts.

Back from the dead. The heat will flow from hot to cold so eventually it will thaw the line. Also, Its a good idea to replace the fuel line from the tank to the engine with a bigger ID plastic hose. Elsbett wvo systems come with 10mm or 11 mm id hard plastic line that you use. Its the same stuff the brake booster to vac pump hose is made out of. I like it. That helps it not clog as easy when cold.

ROLLGUY · #20 12-03-2014, 11:18 AM

I normally hang out in Diesel Discussion even though I have been running veg in my cars for over 10 years, but may lurk around here more often . I started out running heat exchangers and heated filters, but found out about solvent thinning and have ditched the equipment for blending. Between my brother (and his family) and I, we have logged in hundreds of thousands of miles on our Diesel vehicles (over 20) with no major fuel related issues. I live in an area that gets below freezing in the winter (high desert of So. Cal), and the percentage of RUG to WVO goes up to about 20%, whereas down in the valley my bro' runs about 15% year round (never gets too cold). In the summer he and I run about 10%, and sometimes I run 100% WVO in the 'Benzs. The other vehicles (Mitsubishi, '97 F250 PSD, & '91 300D 2.5) don't like 100% WVO anytime. I usually get my RUG from a lawnmower shop that puts new gas in every piece of equipment that is serviced, and they used to have to pay to have it hauled away. Yes there is some 2 stroke oil in it sometimes, but that is no big deal to me. As far as getting the WVO the same viscosity as Diesel, I have no scientific data to offer, but only "seat of the pants" experience with blend ratios. I think the high number of successful blending miles that my bro' and I have logged, speaks for itself as to the benefit and effectiveness of blending over any "system" (single tank, 2 tank, heated etc)......Rich

shadetreemechan · #21 05-20-2015, 10:42 PM

I am reviving this thread after having to rescue my wife and her 300TD today running 80% wvo 20% RUG.
This is what I have noticed and I would be interesting to hear others opinion.
What I have found is RUG works fine as a blend as long as you do not work the engine hard. I have logged thousands of miles of easy driving on an 80-20 mix. However.....
Today I had to pick her up on the side of the road because after two hours of towing a trailer with progressively worse performance the car quit and refused to even idle any more. Filters were fine. I disconnected the tank and limped to a diesel pump burning straight transmission fluid from the jug under the hood and filled the tank with diesel thereby diluting my 80-20 mix considerably. After several minutes car came back to life and ran fine for the rest of the 150 mile road trip.
I had put several hundred miles on that blend previously with no problems, but also not towing a trailer.
Experience number two is my John Deere 1050. It will run fine on 80-20 unless I am bushogging which uses all the power its got. When bushogging on 80-20 it will run for about 30 minutes and then gradually loose power until it will not run any more. Once cooled down it will run again fine for a while, but if worked hard the same thing will happen.
Experience three is my 240. I have been running 80-20 blends in it without issue all winter. However I took it on a road trip a couple of weeks ago during a warm spell and it was wound out for an extended period running 80 mph in 85 degree temps. Did it fine, but once off the interstate I stopped it for 5 minutes and when I went to start it again it would not start. Filters were fine, but no fuel was getting to injectors. I let it sit and cool down for 30 minutes and was on my way again without problems.
I am suspecting in all three instances ip or lift pump vapor lock. In reading on the internet it seems people also talk about excessive injector coking from a lack of cooling of the diesel as it passes through the injectors.
What I know is I have 8 plus years of blending experience with diesel or kerosine and wvo without issue (outside of filters).
I tried blending with gas once about 6 years ago and again this winter. I am switching back to diesel and kerosine and do not think I will try RUG again.
Anyone else experienced anything similar?

ROLLGUY · #22 05-21-2015, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadetreemechan

I am reviving this thread after having to rescue my wife and her 300TD today running 80% wvo 20% RUG.
This is what I have noticed and I would be interesting to hear others opinion.
What I have found is RUG works fine as a blend as long as you do not work the engine hard. I have logged thousands of miles of easy driving on an 80-20 mix. However.....
Today I had to pick her up on the side of the road because after two hours of towing a trailer with progressively worse performance the car quit and refused to even idle any more. Filters were fine. I disconnected the tank and limped to a diesel pump burning straight transmission fluid from the jug under the hood and filled the tank with diesel thereby diluting my 80-20 mix considerably. After several minutes car came back to life and ran fine for the rest of the 150 mile road trip.
I had put several hundred miles on that blend previously with no problems, but also not towing a trailer.
Experience number two is my John Deere 1050. It will run fine on 80-20 unless I am bushogging which uses all the power its got. When bushogging on 80-20 it will run for about 30 minutes and then gradually loose power until it will not run any more. Once cooled down it will run again fine for a while, but if worked hard the same thing will happen.
Experience three is my 240. I have been running 80-20 blends in it without issue all winter. However I took it on a road trip a couple of weeks ago during a warm spell and it was wound out for an extended period running 80 mph in 85 degree temps. Did it fine, but once off the interstate I stopped it for 5 minutes and when I went to start it again it would not start. Filters were fine, but no fuel was getting to injectors. I let it sit and cool down for 30 minutes and was on my way again without problems.
I am suspecting in all three instances ip or lift pump vapor lock. In reading on the internet it seems people also talk about excessive injector coking from a lack of cooling of the diesel as it passes through the injectors.
What I know is I have 8 plus years of blending experience with diesel or kerosine and wvo without issue (outside of filters).
I tried blending with gas once about 6 years ago and again this winter. I am switching back to diesel and kerosine and do not think I will try RUG again.
Anyone else experienced anything similar?

I had a similar thing happen a few summers ago in my bro's 300D. In the heat of summer, I reduce the RUG so the vapor lock does not happen. After letting it cool for a while, all that I did when I got home was to add some WVO, and it ran great after that. The OM602 has a fuel heater, and that helped to heat the fuel to a vapor before entering the IP and injectors. I learned that 80-20 is not good for all year.

mach4 · #23 05-21-2015, 01:16 AM

If vapor lock is the problem, that might be a case for an electric boost pump at the tank...

shadetreemechan · #24 05-21-2015, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I had a similar thing happen a few summers ago in my bro's 300D. In the heat of summer, I reduce the RUG so the vapor lock does not happen. After letting it cool for a while, all that I did when I got home was to add some WVO, and it ran great after that. The OM602 has a fuel heater, and that helped to heat the fuel to a vapor before entering the IP and injectors. I learned that 80-20 is not good for all year.

That was my solution in both the john deere and my 240. D-2 works so well in blending I think I will stay with that during summer and maybe try 10% RUG in winter to help with cold starts. I do worry that these thicker fuels over time and short winter trips will gum things up in the motor, but the 300TD is at 375K with almost 100K of blends and so far so good.

shadetreemechan · #25 05-21-2015, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

If vapor lock is the problem, that might be a case for an electric boost pump at the tank...

I think this is why I have had no problems with the f-250. It has an aftermarket electric lift pump.

ah-kay · #26 05-22-2015, 12:40 AM

I seriously doubt blending would cause vapor lock. You need to be very hot ( 150C+, I would guess ) to vaporize the blend plus the fuel is flowing so there is NO hot spot to speak of.