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  #31  
Old 05-19-2004, 11:47 AM
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I guess the point is that damage will occur to your speakers if you have distortion (either caused by overexerting your speakers or by clipping your amplifier). To reach a desired volume level you need two things... an amplifier that is powerful enough and speakers that can handle the power. In my case I have somewhat inefficient speakers and I knew I'd have too much distortion with the stock amplifier. I opted for an external amplifier...

BTW I don't listen to music at 'extreme' volume levels...

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  #32  
Old 05-20-2004, 01:19 AM
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Hey Old Navy,

I'll take those speakers off your hands! Email me directly, please: dmosel@igc.org.

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  #33  
Old 06-19-2004, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by pdxwaker
I guess the point is that damage will occur to your speakers if you have distortion (either caused by overexerting your speakers or by clipping your amplifier). To reach a desired volume level you need two things... an amplifier that is powerful enough and speakers that can handle the power. In my case I have somewhat inefficient speakers and I knew I'd have too much distortion with the stock amplifier. I opted for an external amplifier...

BTW I don't listen to music at 'extreme' volume levels...

I lost this thread somehow.

Yes, clipping, which you CANNOT always hear, will kill speakers, even quality speakers(which will usually tolerate clean playing with a little much current, long as it's clean. If you can ever look at an amp on an oscilliscope you'd understand. This is why quality amps are expensive, sure one from wallmart or jc whitney might be a 500watt amp and put out that wattage, but my god what a dirty signal.

I say underpowering will kill speakers because it's easier for most laymen to understand, and I don't want to have to explain about clipping etc and hope I remember all the details correctly, haveing more amp than speaker by a slight margin and being careful is the path to audio bliss.

I've been trying to blow my stockers lately, well, not trying, but not-not turning the volume up lately either. They seem to be built like the rest of the car, tuff.
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  #34  
Old 12-11-2011, 04:05 PM
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OK, Im bringing this thread back to life. I have two different W123 cars from back then, both have perfect, crack free dashboards, and Im not going to have a coverlay. Ive looked through all the threads here and on BW, and Im still not quite sure how to go.

I wash there was a simple 4" speaker with no tweeter.

I have less time, more money now. I still have OE headunits, and that is NOT going to change.

I dont mind installing an amp, and will likely want to install an underseat sub.

So, what is the current best bet for fitting front and rear on W123 cars (coupe and sedan) using OE grilles?

Is it the BA S45? Ive seen rainbow, MB Quart, etc.

Want to do it right, need some ideas how to do it right.

Id kind of like to keep the fader, Im thinking that a 4-ch amp that takes high-level is my best bet, and just wire to the amp through the fader wheel. Makes things easy I think, as I can have all the speaker connections remain right under the panel there.

But I want to get the right speakers that will fit without effecting the grilles. If bottom-mounting is doable without removing the dash, Id consider it too.

Recommendations?

Thanks!
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  #35  
Old 12-11-2011, 06:54 PM
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I did a bottom mount in my 300CD and put in a 4" triaxial and used the stock covers. But even with the dash out I had to dremel some metal out of the way.

You might consider these from retrosound. RetroSoundUSA.com - RetroMod&#153 3.5" 30 watt 2 way Upgraded Replacement Speakers (sold as a pair)

The side view shows they stick up a bit, but they may fit a bottom mount at 3.5 inches, assuming you can get a screw in place. There are a few other recent threads about speaker sizes. Crutchfield has some excellent exploded views where you can get a good idea of dimensions.
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  #36  
Old 12-11-2011, 07:00 PM
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Well it looks like those BA speakers are essentially flush.

What did you use in the rear? We're you able to keep the OE grills?
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
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  #37  
Old 12-11-2011, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Well it looks like those BA speakers are essentially flush.

What did you use in the rear? We're you able to keep the OE grills?
I think I put the same 4" Kenwoods in the rear. No trouble with the rear grill. I used the OE wires from the original speakers and just re-soldered the wires onto the new speakers and plugged them in. No drilling, no cutting, no fuss. It may have been the easiest thing I did to my car.

I didn't look for audiophile sound. I wanted an intact cone to replace the Texas sun-damaged paper from the 25+ y.o. OE speakers.
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  #38  
Old 12-11-2011, 07:47 PM
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It has been a long time since I worked on speakers in front or rear in a w123. Are the OE ones the same size, i.e. 4" or whatever, front and rear?

Or are the rear OE ones "officially" 5 1/4"?
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #39  
Old 12-11-2011, 09:29 PM
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Thread w/ pics of Kenwood 1052's (I think) installed in undermount.

Becker Radio + New Speakers: Will it sound good?
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  #40  
Old 04-19-2013, 02:04 AM
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also this for cross reference

Front speaker suggestions 83 240d

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