Detailer dudes,

Any reccomendations for a cordless orbital buffer?

I'm not looking for a commercial type unit, but something that's easy to use, but not too cheap.

Thanks!

Just out of curiosity, why cordless? No access to line power? I have seen a 12V cordless unit at http://www.autobarn.net/pros12vcorbu.html .

I know the cord is a real PITA, but a cordless model has a hefty battery, short life time (50 min or so per battery) and to keep the weight down, usually sacrifice on the motor, gear train, and housing (the other heavy components). They do have a cigarette lighter adapter, but then it isn't cordless anymore.

Mequiers offers a compressed air model, but I don't see that this solves anything. Maybe there is a unit with a belt worn battery and short cord that runs along your arm to the buffer? That would be cool. Hey Makita, Porter Cable, you listening?

__________________
John

2003 Firemist Red/grey leather SL 500
2015 Palladium Silver/black mbtex GLK 350
1987 Smoke Silver/burgundy mbtex 300E Sportline (SOLD)

Click to see 87 300E

I have a hot outlet, but it's a pain. I'd prob be better off with an extension cord, if those suckers barely last an hour.

There's an idea! Rig one up and get a patent

I'll buzz over to Sears and see what they have. I want to get one today or tomorrow.

Thanks!

If you haven't already gotten one, I'd recommend saving your pennies for a Porter Cable corded model. If you don't already have swirls to buff out, you will, and you'll want the speed and power that a good unit provides. I use mine at least twice a year to get rid of the accumulated swirls that inevitably show up.

Griot's Garage has some nifty accesories that slap onto the Velcro on a Porter Cable random orbital buffer, like a hollowed-out foam pad for holding paint clay.

__________________
Steve
'93 400E

Thanks --- I've heard the Porter Cables are good. I'll check around. I'd use it on some of my old cars that have 32+ year old paint jobs, that need a lot of elbow grease.

400E,

What particular Porter Cable model are you recommending?

Have a great day,

Larry,
Mine is Porter Cable Model # 7336, which is their 6" variable speed unit. Got mine from Griot's, but I understand they're widely available at a lower price from power tool suppliers. It is made as (and called, in the manual) a "random orbit sander" and in fact comes with a vacuum attachment for its originally intended purpose of sanding wood. I would imagine it'd be available at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc., though I haven't looked there.

I really like it mostly because it's basically idiot proof, so I can't get into trouble no matter how hard I try! I believe that even if one were to lean on it for a long period it wouldn't burn paint due to the random orbital nature. It does make wax application faster, and is especially nice for swirl removing, though there is nothing you can do with a power tool you couldn't eventually do by hand (if you had the time, patience, and muscle tone to accomplish it). On the other hand, in about 2 hours I can go around my car and remove swirls, buff the polish off, then wax and buff it, and have great results (and not need to take gobs of ibuprofen for sore muscles!)

Steve

__________________
Steve
'93 400E

I have the POR 7424, and all the above comments apply - it is great. The 7424 and 7336 are the same basic body, motor, and features - the 7336 apparently comes with the sander and polisher 'heads'. Some sites say it is the new model # to replace the 7424 sander/polisher, which doesn't have the sander or polisher heads or vacuum attachment included - they must be bought seperately.
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/port/skinny.htm?L+coastest+wbnx8989ff924092+1019605220

Roberts tools advertises the 7424 for $95.00, which is where I got mine. The 6" polisher head is an extra $8.00, but don't bother. I bought the Mequiers velcro polisher head, which accepts the foam pads in a fast change mode (different pad for swirl, polish, and wax). A couple of hours to 3/4 day towash, deswirl, polish, and wax the entire car. Great!

__________________
John

2003 Firemist Red/grey leather SL 500
2015 Palladium Silver/black mbtex GLK 350
1987 Smoke Silver/burgundy mbtex 300E Sportline (SOLD)

Click to see 87 300E

I was talking to the owner of an excellent detail shop in my area and he swore by Porter Cable -- I'm sure they use the commercial version, nonetheless sounds like a good product!

I purchased the Porter Cable unit from Meguiar's, and didn't like it. I ended up returning it.

These units are basically detail sanders, and the collet is modified so that there is a threaded stud permanently installed. A velcro backing plate is provided that threads onto the stud, and your foam attachments stick onto the velcro backing plate.

I didn't like the Porter Cable unit because there is a clutch built into it that prevents the unit from spinning if any weight is applied. I know this is to prevent you from burning the paint and creating swirl marks, but it also prevents you from really being able to polish out any moderate paint defects or oxidation.

If your paint is good to really good, then this will be fine for you. If your paint has some scratches, oxidation, swirl marks, ect., you can use the Porter Cable all day long, and they'll never come out. Trust me. I've done a lot of detailing.

You'll also never see a professional detailer with this Porter Cable unit. They all use one of the better brands of a plain-old electronic, variable speed polisher, like DeWalt, Milwaukee, etc. The one that most detailers use is the DeWalt unit because the variable speed dial actually lets you dial in the exact number of revolutions, instead of imaginary numbers like 1-5, and you don't know exactly how fast you are spinning. In fact, every commercial shop that I've been to that supplies auto body paint shops and the like, carries the DeWalt unit, and they cost between $289 - $329. I shop at Sherwin Williams Automotive Finishes Paint Store.

If you go into a shop that sells products (commercially) to paint shops and detailers, they'll carry the professional detailing products, like 3M and Meguiar's, in one gallon jugs. They'll have more grades of polish / compounds than you'll ever imagine needing. On each bottle, the manufacturer almost always recommends which speed is suggested for each specific product. Most light compounds / polishes recommend in the 1,500 - 2,000 range.

Yes, it takes some skill using these kind of polishers, and yes, I've seen people burn through the paint. But they're not hard to learn to use, especially if you're used to hand tools, sanders, and woodworking (like me). The results are infinitely better than using the Porter Cable unit.

__________________
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Well the paint on my Benz is very good for an 11 year old car, no oxidation and not alot of swirl marks. On the other hand, my older cars, namely my 70 Olds Toronado needs some help and I know detailing it with a good orbital buffer will knock ten years off it. On the other hand, I could spend 5 grand and have all the chrome pulled off and paint the car -- BUT I'm not ready for that yet. Rebuilding the trans is enough for this summer. Rambling now... but I'd imagine that detail shop I visited worked on very few cars with old paint, hence the praise for the Porter Cable. Thanks for the input Paul and others, I was in a hurry to buy one, but I'll bide my time while I sort out the trans issue.

Forums like this are good examples of how reasonable people may differ. I don't want to start a buffer war, but just want to say that I've had very good luck with reducing swirl marks using Griot's mildest polish and the Porter Cable RO buffer. And I have a black car, so swirls show up very easily.

I would also be very careful of using a straight (i.e. non-RO) buffer on a clearcoat finish without a fair amount of practice on a junker vehicle. It's pretty easy to burn through clearcoat if you're not very careful.

The other thing to think about is that professionals have a different agenda than us DIY'ers. Their main goal is throughput -- getting cars in and out quickly. As owners, we are often willing to sacrifice speed for safety, for example. I have also read that the "pros" will indeed buff out the swirls but in the process create lots of very fine scratches which they fill in with glazes. The car looks extraordinary after that treatment -- until the glazes wash out a few carwashes later . . .

__________________
Steve
'93 400E

Steve:

I would agree on that - I wonder if Paul's Porter Cable had a defective clutch, as mine has taken out swirls like a champ with Mequiers #9. The MB dealer scratched my deck lid last time it was in, and polished it out. Each time I wash it more fine scratches appear in the area they 'fixed'. I am going to do the whole car in a couple of weeks and see how well i can fix their handywork.

__________________
John

2003 Firemist Red/grey leather SL 500
2015 Palladium Silver/black mbtex GLK 350
1987 Smoke Silver/burgundy mbtex 300E Sportline (SOLD)

Click to see 87 300E

John,
Been there, done that. My dealer (when I used to go there for service) would of course wash and vacuum the beast for "free" after every $85 oil change. The service manager got indignant when I suggested that they created a TON of swirl marks when they washed my car by hand, and they even managed to scuff up the leather shifter knob with a hastily-applied vacuum nozzle.

It was a good thing, though, because I finally got off my behind and got a Topsider.

I wondered about the clutch, too. I think you may be right about that. Mine keeps on spinning no matter how much I lean on it.

Good luck fixing the dealer "fix." I'm sure it'll turn out very well. Too bad fine paint scratches and swirls don't show up too well in photos; it'd be nice to see before and after shots.

Steve

__________________
Steve
'93 400E

400E and Wear Bars -

Thanks a bunch for providing the counter point to those hesitant about using a RO unit - In reading through the thread, I would have written off the RO had it not been for your final comments. This is what makes this forum great. I respect what Suginami says about the 'truly professional' units but I also believe the pros focus on throughput and have the years of time behind the switch to control a non-RO unit.

After taking delivery of a number of cars from very good body shops (doing paint work) - I notice large, sweeping swirl patterns when viewed in the right sun light. I've always felt these are from the pros using non-RO units in a time crunch situation. I am glad to read the RO units work great for the weekend warrior - this is what I will purchase this spring. Thanks to JCE as well for the leads on purchasing the Porter Cable units at good pricing.

__________________
04 GMC Yukon XL Denali, Black, 12k
02 New Beetle, TDI, Reflex Silver, 24k
89 300TE, Arctic White, 214k

90 300E, 142k (sold)
87 300TD, 128k (sold)
83 300D, 314k (sold)
79 300TD, 266k (sold)

Share your knowledge -

Wayne