ok, so i got the head back from the machine shop. it was refaced i think to the absolute limit. all the pits where water might seep in to the cylinders were filled, valves and guides are all new.

i removed the head myself for the first time, so this will also be my first reinstallation. anything i should be wary of? do i put sealant on the headgasket or is it not necessary?

i cleaned the top of the pistons. i noticed that when i removed the head some of the carbon deposits and some crud fell into the cylinders, i vacuumed all that can be vacuumed but looking in with a flashlight i see some made it between the piston and the walls, will those be burned during combustion?

tips and tricks needed.

__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project

Do you have a manual to guide you? The reason I ask is that you mention sealant for the head gasket. Cam tower tightening sequence is very important!

If you need to replace the thermostat, do it before you reinstall the head.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

the small amount of carbon left should blow out. i believe that sealand on the head gasket is a matter of opinion. some say yes some no. i believe my machinist does. he uses a spray on type and when i did my own i used the same stuff. i believe it was prestone brand. if nobody else has a suggestion here i will call him and ask what brand for sure.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

all i have is a haynes manual, it helped a lot during the disassembly. i am aware of the cam tightening sequence, upon disassembly i realized its importance.

no mention was made about putting sealant so i assume its not needed. what kind of prep work do i have to do? should i lightly coat the mating surfaces with oil or do i dry them out completely?

and do i oil the cylinders? the engine has been sitting for nearly a month so all the oil is in the pan.

before i fire it up (when i get there), is there a way to prime the oil pump or something? do i rotate the engine manualy (before installing the injectors) to get the oil to circulate?

__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project

Haynes manuals are they explicit about tightening sequence? Look at the Reinz web site for info on the 603 headbolt tightening procedure I believe its there, it works. I remember someone commenting on a MB manual that mis-described the cam removal procedure. You can crack the camshaft if you get off on removing and replacing the cam tie downs.

You're going to crank it over quite a lot to purge the air in the fuel lines, too bad they didn't put a manual primer pump in these engines and during that time the oil will pump up good. I would squirt oil in the cylinders anyhow.
I have a preference for Reinz gaskets, I'd throw out an OE or Elring gasket and use Reinz if I were in your shoes. No sealant either.
Are you replacing the lifters?

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Dang! I thought I had a taker for that Elring gasket in the garage

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

There's a Haynes manual covering the OM603? First time I have heard of that. What manual is it exactly?

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

thanks for all the tips guys!i'll have to double check if they did indeed shim the pre chambers, how do i check this on my own without removing the prechamber(which i can't)? i can just measure the protrusion, anybody have specs for this?

the haynes manual that i have is for a mercedes w124, it includes all the engine variations. it vdoes have all the numerical specs listed, though i'll have to check if it has the prechamber protrusion number.

about the lifters: they are very easy to depress, all of 'em are, i guess they've been drained of oil, they can be primed manualy right?
IF ever, is it bad to run bad lifters? does it do physical damage or just the performance?

btw, while i was doing initial prep on the block i noticed that while cleaning the pistons that i could move them a bit side-to-side(back-to-front blockwise) is this normal?
and when i vacuumed the block surface, a bit of oil was seeping up between the cylinder sleeves and the block(not the piston/sleeve), i could see a very slight gap(oil) batween the sleeve and the block when i look hard enough, this normal?

__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project