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  #46  
Old 08-15-2005, 04:02 PM
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ok
I jumped the lower switch
nothing happened with the AC compressor

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  #47  
Old 08-15-2005, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baraboom
kn
I know what the dryer is now
the lover switch has a brown and white wire, right?
I don't have the wire codes for the W124. Just jump it and see if the compressor will start.

With regard to the relay, we refer to the typical Mercedes relay, used for most applications on the vehicle as an "ice cube" relay. It's just a term that describes this specific M/B relay because it is perfectly square.

Auto Zone or Kragen won't have any idea of what you are talking about.

Any relay that can handle a 10A load will do fine.
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  #48  
Old 08-15-2005, 04:12 PM
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Ok Brian, I'm on my way to the benz dealer.
I will ask to get an ICE CUBE REALY that will handle 10 A LOAD
tell me how to do it
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  #49  
Old 08-15-2005, 04:21 PM
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I don't mean to cause problems, but I have a question. Referring to post #46, did you jump the switch with the wires attached or did you jump the wires going to the switch or did you simply jump the two connectors on the switch with the wires removed? From your post I am wondering which you did.
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  #50  
Old 08-15-2005, 04:56 PM
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Ok brian I got an ICE CUBE RELAY from the dealer
they asked me what kind well anyway 20A it's a fan relay
what do I do next?
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  #51  
Old 08-15-2005, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baraboom
Ok brian I got an ICE CUBE RELAY from the dealer
they asked me what kind well anyway 20A it's a fan relay
what do I do next?

Perfect.

Look on the side of the relay. There are a bunch of pin numbers.

Find pins 30,87,85,and 86.

Connect pin 30 to socket #5 in the Klima plug

Connect pin 87 to socket #7 in the Klima plug

Connect pin 85 to socket #5 in the Klima plug (socket #5 feeds both pin 30 and pin 85)

Connect pin 86 to socket #10 in the Klima plug.

Secure the relay so the wires don't pop out of the sockets. BTW, I stripped some blue butt connectors to fit the sockets. Their O.D. just fits the I.D. of the sockets.




Start the engine.

Press the middle button on the pushbutton unit.

Feel the a/c
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  #52  
Old 08-15-2005, 07:54 PM
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"new" Klima Relay - Thanks Brian

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Perfect.

Look on the side of the relay. There are a bunch of pin numbers.

Find pins 30,87,85,and 86.

Connect pin 30 to socket #5 in the Klima plug

Connect pin 87 to socket #7 in the Klima plug

Connect pin 85 to socket #5 in the Klima plug (socket #5 feeds both pin 30 and pin 85)

Connect pin 86 to socket #10 in the Klima plug.

Secure the relay so the wires don't pop out of the sockets. BTW, I stripped some blue butt connectors to fit the sockets. Their O.D. just fits the I.D. of the sockets.




Start the engine.

Press the middle button on the pushbutton unit.

Feel the a/c
Brian, the relay looks like this, fits in great, nothing moving or loose.
Check the pic let me know what you think HEHE
The AC works great like this, I was just wondering if it won't affect the AC Compressor somehow, or other electrical components, I will buy another Klima relay in time. Thank you man a lot.
I will need some more help on my next problems Cruise Control and Sunroof
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  #53  
Old 08-15-2005, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baraboom
Brian, the relay looks like this, fits in great, nothing moving or loose.
Check the pic let me know what you think HEHE
The AC works great like this, I was just wondering if it won't affect the AC Compressor somehow, or other electrical components, I will buy another Klima relay in time. Thank you man a lot.
I will need some more help on my next problems Cruise Control and Sunroof
I don't see a pic, probably because it is too large. You are limited to 67K on here, IIRC.

It won't affect the AC compressor in any way shape or form. Just be aware of the following:

1) You are not protected if the compressor seizes. The belt will be shredded and you will be on the side of the road unless you are very quick on the buttons.

2) The compressor will not shut down automatically if the engine temp gets up to 120°C.

3) The compressor will not shut down automatically if the kickdown switch closes (when you mash the pedal trying to get out of the way of a Kenworth).

Other than this, you can leave it in place forever, if you want.

Best as I can tell, a new or a recycled Klima will be the ultimate fix.
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  #54  
Old 08-15-2005, 08:35 PM
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Great ...Thanks man I'll keep that in mind.
I tryed to upload my pic but it says ERROR UPLOADING.
The pic is 56K.
I was wondering about the Cruise control.
Let me know if you know stuff about it and if yes when you have some time.
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  #55  
Old 08-15-2005, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baraboom
Great ...Thanks man I'll keep that in mind.
I tryed to upload my pic but it says ERROR UPLOADING.
The pic is 56K.
I was wondering about the Cruise control.
Let me know if you know stuff about it and if yes when you have some time.
If it's 56K then it should upload fine. I can't come up with a reason.

The cruise issues are either the amplifier (80% likely) or the actuator (20% likely). Does the system do anything at all, or nothing at all?
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  #56  
Old 08-16-2005, 03:03 PM
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Ok Brian got the pic
Ok cruise control did not work when I bought the car, (BTW I spent $3000, I'll take some pictures later and post them here or on one of my web servers.)
A friend of mine told me to check the vacuum hoses make sure everything is connected. I found bunch of vacuum lines disconnected, the rubber connectors being too old. I replace all of them, the ones I could see, then took it for a test drive. The cruise worked perfectly. It engaged at 55MPH accelerated to 75, went back to 60. I got off the freeway and pushed the switch back, the cruise disengaged and that was it. Next day did not work anymore. It seems to me that it holds the speed for about 1, 2 secs, but I am not sure since the car decelerates very slow, I can't feel the pedal stopped at that speed like before, I can't accelerate with the switch.
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  #57  
Old 08-16-2005, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baraboom
Ok Brian got the pic
Ok cruise control did not work when I bought the car, (BTW I spent $3000, I'll take some pictures later and post them here or on one of my web servers.)
A friend of mine told me to check the vacuum hoses make sure everything is connected. I found bunch of vacuum lines disconnected, the rubber connectors being too old. I replace all of them, the ones I could see, then took it for a test drive. The cruise worked perfectly. It engaged at 55MPH accelerated to 75, went back to 60. I got off the freeway and pushed the switch back, the cruise disengaged and that was it. Next day did not work anymore. It seems to me that it holds the speed for about 1, 2 secs, but I am not sure since the car decelerates very slow, I can't feel the pedal stopped at that speed like before, I can't accelerate with the switch.
Nice job on the relay.

What you have described, an intermittent condition on engagement, and failure to remain engaged, is typically a result of a bad amplifier. I have the same issue on the SDL. I'm getting a replacement amplifier tomorrow and I am hoping it will resolve the issue.

You can seek a replacement amplifier from the recyclers or on e-bay.

The alternative is to purchase a "rebuilt" unit at approx. $195.00.

Note, however, that the actuator can cause the amplifier to fail if it draws too much current. As they get older, this is a distinct possibility. They have a limited number of hours in use before they require lubrication and a rebuild.
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  #58  
Old 08-20-2005, 05:21 PM
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Hey Brian I was wondeing if you could go with me over the fuse no. 6 Problem.
Car is stoped key out. I touched the fuse no.6 with a screwdriver and the fan starts. Auxiliary fan, the one in front, and all the lights inside the car come on. I did that the other day to show a mechanic and the fuse no 9, burned out, I had no radio, no signals. I pulled over and replaced the fuse no 9 and everything worked. Do you think it could be a problem, like a short in fuse no. 9 that will cause the fuse no 6 to be "hot" and cross over with other fuses?
What I did was disconnected the auxiliary fan and everything else that the fuse no 6 is related to, just in case something there had a short that caused fuses no 6 to act crazy. My plan was to troubleshoot the stuff related to that fuse, but even with everything disconnected still the lights in car went on. I believe the problem is more complicated then only that fuse. Maybe no 9 or 7. I open the fuse box and looked undeneeth just in case some wire melted, everything looks ok, brand new.
Thanks man
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  #59  
Old 08-21-2005, 12:15 AM
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You've got quite a problem there.

To troubleshoot it properly, I'd need a set of wiring diagrams for the W124.

But, the first place to start is to determine why #6 is hot. I presume that #6 should be hot only when the key is in the #2 position. If it is hot with the key removed, then something is likely incorrect here.

I can't fathom how #6 would get power if it does not get it from the key.

Are you sure that some moron didn't mess with the wiring when adding an alarm or some auxiliary aftermarket device? Your problem seems almost impossible to occur from the factory wiring.
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  #60  
Old 05-31-2007, 11:01 PM
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Brian, attaching the two photos re: the Klima question.
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1987 300d Turbo Ac / Fuses Problem Need Some Help-copy-im001833.jpg   1987 300d Turbo Ac / Fuses Problem Need Some Help-copy-im001834.jpg  

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