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#61
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#1 is the Klima.
What is the question? |
#62
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Brian, the compressor clutch on my ‘87 300 SDL is not kicking in so I’m trying to trouble shoot it, thus my questions regarding the test procedure you outlined under this thread for baraboom.
1. Does the top of the Klima just lift off or are there release clips? 2. Am I safe on my “87 300 SDL to follow the same test instructions you provided to baraboom re his W124? thanks Bill |
#63
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Quote:
2. Yes, the procedure is the same. Report back with results and take care to understand if you are measuring voltage or continuity. |
#64
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Thanks Brian. I will report back.
BTW I also should have asked if you can identify for future info two other parts that were shown in photos #1 & #2? In #1 what is red topped relay alongside of Klima and in #2 what is that part that arrow is pointing at? Thanks Bill |
#65
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I'm not sure of what #2 is pointing at........... |
#66
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Since we getting much needed rain here in FL it will probably be tomorrow before I can continue to diagnose my no clutch engagement problem in my ‘87 300 SDL. However I do have a question relative to proper AC clutch operation.
Understand the clutch on the Mercedes is suppose to constantly engage/disengage (suppose to hear clicking) based on various factors/demands and when disengaged, that front, outermost ring stops spinning? I also have an ’86 in which the air doesn’t work either but unlike the ‘87, when I start the engine, without having the air control turned on, that outer clutch ring rotates (it’s always spinning). If I then turn on the air, there is no change, the outer ring still spins, without any clicking, and I don’t get any cool air. Will appreciate comments. Bill |
#67
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Quote:
It should engage and remain engaged until the temperature of the evaporator gets down to a point where the system is close to freezing. Then the evap temp switch would signal the CCU to signal the Klima to open the relay for the clutch. The clutch will remain disengaged for a short period of time (a minute give or take.......) and the evaporator immediately warms up and signals the CCU to signal the Klima to close the compressor relay. This process repeats itself many times every hour and you can feel the compressor kick in by the sudden lack of power if you're sensitive to it. The outer clutch ring, when spinning, signifies that the control is demanding cold air. It spins until the system temperature is too cold.......then it stops. |
#68
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Here’s where I’m confused. Is that outer ring actually the clutch? Does that outer ring action mirror the action of the clutch being engaged and disengaged? In other words, when it spins, does that tell me the clutch is engaged and the opposite when it’s not spinning?
On the ‘87 that ring isn’t spinning in any mode, so I understand that’s telling me no clutch engagement thus the diagnostic steps involving the Klima, correct? Where should I start on the ’86 where that outer ring spins all the time the engine runs, regardless of whether I actually turn on the air or not? Thanks Bill |
#69
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If the clutch won't engage, we start at the Klima to see why. If the clutch remains engaged and you get no cold air........you need a set of gauges to see what the problem is with the closed system. If the clutch remains engaged when the CCU is in economy mode, the CCU is NFG. I had this problem on two different CCU's with the '86. |
#70
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Brian, sure do appreciate your help!
Since on the ‘86 my clutch does remain engaged when the CCU is in economy mode, my CCU must have bitten the dust. Assume CCU stands for Computer Control Unit? Sounds expensive to replace? Physically, where is it in the car and what’s the procedure to R&R? Where does one get a replacement, used or new, and for how much? Bill |
#71
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It's the pushbutton unit right in the middle of the dash. The ashtray and radio are removed. Two screws on the underside of the front panel hold it in place. The panel slides down about 1/4" and it's out. You'll need to unplug all the switches above the CCU to remove the panel. You'll also need to remove the two giant plugs that plug into the CCU (get a small screwdriver for leverage). Once the panel is in your hands, the removal and reinstallation of the CCU will be obvious. You can get used units on e-bay for about $70. It's a bit of a crapshoot as to longevity. Programma sells a rebuilt unit for about $150. I'm going to try one of those for the '87. |
#72
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Please, what is the step by step procedure to run that test for ground on the Klima?
That Programma unit probably does make the most sense. Is there web site just, Programma.com? thanks Bill |
#73
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Then test for voltage using socket #5 as the 12V positive supply and socket #10 as the ground. If you get 12V, the CCU is signaling the Klima to engage the compressor (as it should in the a/c modes). If you don't get 12V, the CCU is not providing the signal to engage the compressor (as it should not in the economy mode). Programa: http://www.programainc.com/ |
#74
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Thanks Brian. I’ll run theses tests as soon as weather allows. Going to try and button up the ‘87 before turning to the ‘86.
Guess with Programa, we need to call them for prices as I didn’t see any on their site. Sounds like you already called since you mentioned price of $150. I’ll be back at you soon. Thanks again Bill |
#75
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Hi Brian
Just ran the tests on the ‘87 you outlined to determine if CCU unit is sending signal to Klima. Evidentially it is not. Klima #5 socket was hot but when I tried going from hot #5 to #10 grnd, with key in #2 position, got no reading in any of the AC modes. Does it make any sense at all to open up CCU to try and find the fault? Are there any other sources to check for the CCU or just figure that Programa makes the most sense? I think I have a healthy CCU in a ’82 300d and wondering if I could substitute here? Thanks Bill |
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