Injector testing - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Cr from Texas · #76 02-27-2009, 01:13 AM

It hasn't been said in that many words, but I think they are suggesting I should replace the rack dampener bolt first.

bgkast · #77 02-27-2009, 01:40 AM

Yes, I would try adjusting or updating your rack damper pin before you try new injectors. I have a similar hot idle shake on my SD, and I will be installing some of my rebuilt injectors in it soon. I'll let you know if they change anything.

If you decide to have me rebuild your injectors you don't need to buy a spare set of injectors to send me, you can just pay a core fee that I will refund when you return your old injectors.

dannym · #78 02-27-2009, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Thanks Hunter, That last link has the picture that identifies the bolt. I had also gone out to take some pictures of mine. The first picture is the dampener bolt, right - it is silver. It doesn't look like there would be much room to get it out because of the oil filter housing but apparently there is.

What's this bolt in the second picture? This is what I thought I was looking for until I saw the picture in Hunter's post. It's on the driver side of the injection pump and looks like it is some kind of adjustment bolt.

First time to post pictures - hope it works

That second bolt is where you lock the IP in place for removal. It's also where you plug in the A-B timing light to check timing.

Danny

Diesel911 · #79 02-27-2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

That second bolt is where you lock the IP in place for removal. It's also where you plug in the A-B timing light to check timing.

Danny

Here is a pic of the Timing Pin:

Cr from Texas · #80 02-28-2009, 01:33 AM

Does that part number indicate that is the part for a 601 engine?
Is the part for a 617 the same?

Diesel911 · #81 02-28-2009, 03:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Does that part number indicate that is the part for a 601 engine?
Is the part for a 617 the same?

This site list all the engines it will work on:
http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/content/tool.jsp?toolno=601%20589%2005%2021%2000

I could only copy part of the diagram:

werminghausen · #82 02-28-2009, 08:07 AM

These are on the Mcmaster-carr catalog. My buddy ,who is an amateur machinist and GM dieselhead , thinks they may be hard enough (DIN 988).

Waddaya think?

Rick[/QUOTE]

My humble experience is that you need to find shims that are 'right' in the tolerance of 0.01 - 0.03 mm if you want to have very smooth idle meaning all your new nozzles pop within 3 bars. A rough order of magnitude is 1 bar pressure change per 0.01mm. I did balancing for many years and you absolutely need a micrometer and a wide sentiment of shims so you can choose (they are all different in the range of +/- 0.01 mm or such. What you do is choosing the right one and if need you combine 2 shims in order to get to exactly the size you want. The old Bosch shims are the best but hard to get.
A good digital caliper is not good enough for this job.

Diesel911 · #83 02-28-2009, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by werminghausen

These are on the Mcmaster-carr catalog. My buddy ,who is an amateur machinist and GM dieselhead , thinks they may be hard enough (DIN 988).

Waddaya think?

Rick

My humble experience is that you need to find shims that are 'right' in the tolerance of 0.01 - 0.03 mm if you want to have very smooth idle meaning all your new nozzles pop within 3 bars. A rough order of magnitude is 1 bar pressure change per 0.01mm. I did balancing for many years and you absolutely need a micrometer and a wide sentiment of shims so you can choose (they are all different in the range of +/- 0.01 mm or such. What you do is choosing the right one and if need you combine 2 shims in order to get to exactly the size you want. The old Bosch shims are the best but hard to get.
A good digital caliper is not good enough for this job.[/quote]

Diesel911 comment:
If there is any doubt concerning the hardness just make sure they are placed so that the Spring does not directly contact the shim. Meaning between the Injector Body and another shim.
When I worked in fuel Injection we would sometimes get customer Injectors that people had made Shims from Brass Shim Stock combined with the Factor Shims.
Nothing bad happend to the Brass Shims as long as it was sanwitched between the Injector Body and another Factory Shim.

holtonmusicman · #84 10-27-2009, 08:08 PM

Ok, so I'm getting ready to rebuild my first set of injectors (tried getting some "good" used ones, NOT happy)

How do I (or where do I get) shims to increase/decrease pop pressure? I know there is a shim, but don't know how to adjust the pressure once the new nozzle has been installed (Bosio)

Maybe it's not necissary, but if I'm going to go to the trouble of replacing the nozzles I'd like to make sure they are all as balanced as possible and all at 115 bar.

Thanks

C Sean Watts · #85 10-27-2009, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by holtonmusicman

Maybe it's not necissary, but if I'm going to go to the trouble of replacing the nozzles I'd like to make sure they are all as balanced as possible and all at 115 bar.

Thanks

It IS necessary and you are on the right track - PM sent.