This is a pictorial of my work to install a good by-pass oil filter. Being fed up with the very low quality of MB's by-pass "filter" that uses cotton gin waste (The notable exception being the "Made in Turkey" Fram CH2930 which uses tightly wound string), I've decided to install a real filter.

The oil will be Mobil Delvac 1 and the filter will be an Amsoil EaBP90 filter, much like the Frantz and FS-2500 Bypass filters. The filter will add 1 quart to the overall engine capacity and, in theory, will filter out soot.

The source will be a fitting tapped into the oil filter housing, drawing in unfiltered oil. I'll also mount a 0-200psi pressure gauge to see what the actual oil pressure is. The filter and base will be mounted on the fender near the windshield washer tank where the water injection pump currently lives (The WI pump will be moved to the trunk). From the base, the oil will be returned to the valve cover over the timing chain. The metering orifice is built into the filter base.

I left the base at work so I'll post a picture of it on monday.

More to come...

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Should do a good job.

A note, though -- Wix filters are wound cord, too.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Since Rube Goldberg and I are good friends, how about disabling the oil thermostat in the filter housing to get better flow through the aux filter, then add an external thermostat between the aux filter and the oil cooler?

Sixto
93 300SD

The bypass filter has a restriction orifice on it's outlet. It's only a few thousandths in diameter, probably not even 1/16". I'd bet it does not even flow 1gpm at 3bar pressure. The return line going from the filter to the valve cover will have no pressure in it.

Forcedinduction,
Just curious about your choice of the Amsoil unit versus the Frantz and FS-2500 Bypass set ups. Do you feel its better adapted to diesel Mercedes?

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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K

Cheaper. I got the filter base for $30 from bgkast, I already had all the brass fittings, and a filter from Amsoil is only about $35.

How do you plan to tap into the filter housing? I was thinking about using the oil cooler lines. Is that a bad idea?

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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

my question is why?

• have you done used oil analyses and been unsatisfied with the results?
• is the engine longevity you can expect with stock setup not sufficient?
• are you driving a ton and want to do fewer oil changes?

thanks!

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Current Vehicles: 2001 Mercedes E320 Wagon | 1979 Mercedes 220D | 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon | 1993 Volvo 240 Wagon

My answer is, why not? Just like an intercooler, or a VNT turbo, or water/methanol injection, or a 3" exhaust, or manual transmission..... I can do all of that and still get whooped in the 1/4 mile by a stock Toyota Camry V6. I do it because I can and want to. That's the passion I have for these things.....

Also, If it will help my engine run better in the long run and/or help the engine live for a few extra thousand miles, it's paid for itself and worth the effort.

.........by a stock Toyota Camry I-4............

Valve cover makes sense. Hopefully the fitting doesn't mind coming apart for valve adjustments. In my case that would be every 3 years :/

How about return through the IP side cover? Give the rack a nice shower of the cleanest oil it'll ever see

Sixto
93 300SD

William (MTUpower) did exactly this. He took the supply from one port on the IP and sent the return to another port on the IP. No drilling of the oil filter housing and no upward run from the bottom of the filter to the top of the valve cover. I saw this installation and it's very clean.

That's possible on the 603. But, the OM617 uses a different style IP that does not have a side cover.

BUT, you can smoke them out with a screen to slow them down. I do with the leaky turbocharger on my SDL.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Cleaner oil is better than dirty oil for any mechanical application so why the question as to why? And the explanation that the filters available at a given time may not be sufficient to clean the oil. It just makes good sense since the big industrial applications usually have secondary or bypass filters from the factory. Enough said.
Bud

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1987 300D Turbo, 175k mi., 1998 BMW 323i Convertible, 1997 F250 4x4 7.3L PSD