I installed an Amsoil bypass filter by tapping into the oil gauge line for the input, the output flows through a braided steel line to the oil pan. I've always been concerned about it because it takes a few seconds before it shows oil pressure on the gauge. I'm thinking of changing the input to tapping into the lid of the oil cannister. I also run Amsoil 15W40 marine diesel oil which has always been a stress reliever.

Love the idea...Have a Frantz, locating fittings...would love to put the clean oil into the pump but aside from my concern with the filter clogging and starving the IP, I only see one oil line from the water pump to the IP...where's the out? or is it the IN that im looking for? I was going to use a T at the pressure sending unit at back of the filter housing for the feed and go into the valve cover for the return.

I would like to see a pic on how you tapped into the Oil Pressure line.

Concerning the Oil Pressure do you have a restricted fitting/orifice/hole any were in the flow of Oil to the Bypass Filter?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That skinny Plastic Line it the Oil Supply Line. The Oil inside of the Fuel Injection Pump drains out through the front of the Fuel Injection Pump.

There is a Plug on the top of the Fuel Injectipn Pump Govenor Housing See the gree circle in the pic.
You will have to find some place else to tap into the Pressurized Oil.

Just like in the previous post you are also going to need a restricted Fitting; easy to make.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for posting, however that pic is of little help. The only oil in I see comes from the water pump..wouldn't I then have to plug that out put? Still worried about a clogged filter starving the pump...

The Oil Line for the Fuel Injection Pump does not come from the Water Pump. The Water Pump Bearings are Greased and Sealed and need no Oil From the Engine to lubricate them.
The Fuel Injection Pump Oil Line comes out of the side of the Engine Block and is actually closest to the Vacuum Pump.

I am not suggesting that you divert the Fuel Injection Pump Oil Supply through the Bypass Oil Filter and Back into the Fuel Injection pump.

The Plug that I circled in the Pic is not where you would tap into the Oil but an easy place where you can remove that Plug, drill and tap the Plug for a Fitting so that you can return the Oil Back into the Engine.

Over all I believe the best place to tap into the pressurized Oil is the Lid of the Oil Filter; if it is done with care.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

[QUOTE=Diesel911;3058948]The Oil Line for the Fuel Injection Pump does not come from the Water Pump. The Water Pump Bearings are Greased and Sealed and need no Oil From the Engine to lubricate them.
The Fuel Injection Pump Oil Line comes out of the side of the Engine Block and is actually closest to the Vacuum Pump. Thats what I meant...

I am not suggesting that you divert the Fuel Injection Pump Oil Supply through the Bypass Oil Filter and Back into the Fuel Injection pump. No I didn't think you meant that, I was only looking at a place for return.

The Plug that I circled in the Pic is not where you would tap into the Oil but an easy place where you can remove that Plug, drill and tap the Plug for a Fitting so that you can return the Oil Back into the Engine.
The one in green is where you say drill and tap for a return line?

Over all I believe the best place to tap into the pressurized Oil is the Lid of the Oil Filter; if it is done with care. Why do you feel this is the best place, opposed to say T-ing off the pressure sending unit?


So what you're saying would be to leave the stock supply line to the pump, but run the return from the bypass directly to the pump itself, therefor it's ok if the filter clogs as the pump will have it's regular oil supply anyway? Hmmm I wonder if I can do a T from the return to bathe both the chain and the pump in super clean oil....

[QUOTE=SpecialDelivery;3059222]Yes, you can remove that Plug and put the Plug in a Vice or on a Drill Press to drill and tap it. If for some reason it got messed up another Plug can be had at the Junk Yard Cheap; as opposed to drilling and tapping the Valve Cover as others have done.

You figured out already that if the Filter Plugs and you are returning Oil into the Fuel Injection Pump that it will not interfere with the Oil going into the Fuel Injection Pump.
Nothing wrong with having clean Oil going into the Fuel Injection Pump.

I think you will need to unscrew the Oil Filter Line out of the Oil Filter Housing to understand.

There is no fittings you can buy that I know of that would work as a T. If you find one pass that information on as it would be useful info.

The other way to T into the Oil Pressure line would be to cut the Plastic Tubing. That might seem like a good idea except that the Plastic line has been on there for over 20 years and is likely stiff and brittle. You would be hanging the T fitting from that as well as the weight of the new Hose.

If you plan to T into the Platic Tubing I would say get a new Oil Pressure Line so that it will be flexiable and strong.

The advantage of using the Oil Filter Cap is it is easy to get at and drill through if you take care to miss the Casting Webs inside. Tapping the Aluminum is easy.
If someone manged to mess up the Oil Filter Cap another one can be had at the Junk Yard.
Also a Fitting and Hose connected to the Oil Filter Lid is not likely to fail.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am so interested in how you did this MOD with taking #94 and using it to return oil to the engine. Can you post picutures? I have not installed the centiruge filter until I find a return port to the engine for the clean oil. Thank you.

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1984 300D, 1972 LT1 Corvette, 2014 Artic White 3LT/Z51 C7, 2013 650i Convertible BMW, 1994 Kawasaki Vulcan, 1992 Yamaha Seca II and 1996 Dodge Ram 2500.

You might not be happy with it. I bought another Bolt that was the same length and threads and drilled a 1/4 inch Hole through the Bolt. I have had some 1/4" Stainless Steel Tubing laying around sinc the 1980s.

I roughed up the outside of the Tubing with Sand Paper and degreased the hole I drilled in the Bolt and the Tubing end. When dry I coated them with JB Weld and inserted the Tubing and let the JB Weld Epoxy Cure.

I cut the Tube so it projected out of the Bolt as much as I wanted and used that Bolt+tubing to replace the one on the Engine; afterwhich I attached a 1/4" return Hose to it and a Hose Clamp.
Note: there is no Nipple on the Tubing.
I did not take any pictures that I can remeber and I don't feel like removing it just to take some pictures.

Why I did not used a Fitting with Jags on it.
The smallest Pipe Tap I have is 1/8". That big to be used on the size of Bolt that goes into the Engine which I believe is 12mm.

There is a size Pipe Tap under 1/8". I don't have one and don't know where I could get one at a resonable price and don't know where I could get the Brass Fitting to fit it. Not at the local Hardware Store for sure.

I think a better alternative is to use the Plug shown in the Pic on the Fuel Injection Pump. You can remove it put it in a Vice and Drill and Tap it and I believe it is has a large enough diameter for a 1/8" pipe threads.

If it gets buggered up or just won't work for some reason that Plug ought to be cheap at the Junk Yard.

Using the Plug was someone elses Idea. I wish I had though about it before I installed My Returnline.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for all your help with this!! I cant wait to do it!

I was thinking of T-ing off the oil pressure sending unit fitting for the supply to the filter...does anyone know the thread size in the filter housing?

I'd rather source the parts before taking my sending unit apart.

BTW for anyone interested in an Oilguard / Raycor... only 3 microns at best?

Toilet Paper Oil Filter Higher Capacity Than Frantz Oil Filter | eBay

Absolute or Nominal Micron?
Also as the Filter Filter stuff that would go down.

After reading up on filtration I have had to change My ideas about it. Filters don't work exactly the way I though the did.

As an example take a Chain Link Fence to represent a Paper Media Element. This particular Fence has Chain Line with 2 inch squares on it.

I can say that the Fence will absolutly filter out anything that is 2+ inches.

But, will it filter out stuff smaller than 2 inches?

If I take a Hand Full of BBs (they are about 0.17 of an inch in diameter and that is way smaller than 2 inches) and throw them at the Fence all of the BBs will not make it through the Fence. Some will hit the Fence and bounce back (in the case of Filter Media the often stick to the media).

If I go to the other side of the Fence and gather up the BBs that made it through the Fence and I repeat the same as above; again some BBs will not make it throuh the Fence

If I keep repeating the whole of the above at some point all of the BBs will not have made it through the fence.

So at that point if the above was an Oil Filter and Oil I would have clean Oil. But, that clean Oil is dependent on the recurculation of the same Oil through the Filters.

What messes the above up is that Your Engine in normal working condition is going to put out X amount of particles.

So that would be like adding some BBs to the ones I pick up on the otherside of the Fence. But, even with the addition of some extra BBs there is going to be a certain level percentage of BBs that are not going to make it throuth the Chain Link.

However, what can happend is some event in the Engine can create a lot of particles that will overwhelm the system and the % of BBs/Particles filtered out will drop.

The above is rather simplistic. Since your Engine has different sized BBs/Particles that would would start restricting the size of the 2 inch Chain Link Holes and that would even block more BBs from getting through raising the percentage of BBs/Particles that do not get through the Filter.

It used to be I changed an Oil Filter with what ever Oil Filter fit and just walked away and never gave it any more thought.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It didn't say, dont matter the item is down now...

I don't think any of the Toilet Paper Element type Filters have ever been tested like the ISO tests done on normal Oil Filters.

And, then what brand of TP you use and how well you are able to stuff it into the Filter is going to make a difference in the Filtration.

However, I believe they must Filter down to close to what they claim.
In any event any of the Bypass Oil Filters that I have read about will filter out a lot of Particles that would cause wear way below the 22-35 Microns of the European made Mercedes Oil Filter for the 617.952s.

In the case of the String Wound Filter that I am using now the claim is 0.5 I assume nominal microns. that is not as good as 1 absolute Micron.
But, I am speaking of a string Wound Filter that cost Me less than $3.00 each when I bought them by the Case (that included the Shipping Cost) compared to a $30 each Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter + Shipping.

So mine is not the absolute best but way more cost effective. The sad part is I was not able so far to come up with an easy way to construct a Filter Housing for them.
I made the one in the Thread that is on the Car and am part way through making another but more important events at Home have kept Me form finishing it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel