Shut off valve replacement W124 602/3 300D 2.5 - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

compress ignite · #1 07-17-2010, 07:28 PM

'Recently rediscovered the joys of, thanks to someone on the forums...

The Good ones stock (and can get) Uber Thin Metric Wrenches.
$9.00 or 10.00 each.
I was looking for "Holding Wrenches" for the Oil Cooler fittings
(See: "Screwed Nipples" in Advanced Search)
BUT they'd work for the ALDA Too. [some as thin as 2mm]

t500 · #2 07-22-2010, 07:37 PM

Huge thanks for this post, got the job done on my 300D in about an hour. The instructions could not have been more accurate. I no longer have to pop the hood in parking lots to shut the car down, which i can't say i will miss having to do.

I ordered the "vacuum box, injector pump" from my local dealer (A 00 070 46 53). It appears to be the same as the plastic Bosch one, complete with the Bosch logo on it and the MB part numbers. It does require a bit more vacuum line that the stock metal one did since the hookup is on the top.

curtsmario · #3 08-21-2010, 02:26 PM

Hey thanks a million. all went pretty much as you stated. The only thing additional was removing the magneseum intake snorkle to sensor and air cleaner. this made it much easier to see the valve.
Curt.
87' 300D 299,118 miles and now trany shifts hard? maybe vacume changed? I am not sure . do you have any ideas

pdrayton · #4 08-22-2010, 07:22 AM

Might be that the old SOV was leaking and the VCV was set for this. I would measure your vacuum level to check there are also no vacuum hoses you unplugged accidentally.

If all is correct there, then you could adjust the VCV.

biopete · #5 10-17-2010, 10:45 AM

Thanks for write up and great pics. Awesome job. Haven't tested mine but got the new one in. I needed some washers instead of those hold down tabs that hold teh metal version on as i used the new plastic style. Also a new oring which didn't come with the SOV.

I wasn't gentle enough finagling the SOV out from under the idle solenoid connector and it came loose. I see this nut on the bottom of the idle solenoid connect and it looks like i should have moved that nut and raised the idle solenoid connector to get clearance for the SOV to come out. Anyone ever messed with teh Idle solenoid connector or replaced it and know how it works?

Thanks

bigblockchev · #6 06-08-2011, 03:57 PM

For those who have a few extra std wrenches , if you cut a 1 1/16" wrench in half & grind down the outer cheeks somewhat , this works excellent on the captive nut holding down the Alda. The body of the Alda can be held with a 15/16" with the head ground flatter to fit. Both of these are a precise fit so no rounding of corners. Std wrenches are cheap and plentiful enough to butcher for a specific purpose. Cheers Dan

JPUTT · #7 10-24-2011, 08:14 PM

Great write up. I was ready to pull the intake manifold before I read this as the service manual suggested. Very clear instructions and everything I found was as written.

My new valve has a new part# made by Bosch and is plastic instead of metal. The new unit has screw holes so you bolt it down without the clamp brackets. The vac line mounts from the top so you need to order the 90 degree vac hose to connect at the proper angle back to the vac line.

works great! Thanks for the good posts!

wgilmore · #8 05-20-2012, 10:08 PM

I tried this method today on my 86 300SDL and it worked with a little extra effort.
My ALDA would not come off with channel locks - it took a few smacks with a 12" extension and a hammer on the side of the ALDA to get it loosened.
The real problem I ran into was the rear bolt ( I used the plastic shut off valve).
There is virtually no clearance for a 10mm socket to get on that rear bolt once the bolt gets level with or below the plastic body of the shutoff valve.
I had to remove the front bolt to move the shutoff around and get the socket on the rear bolt - barely able to get the socket on.
Once I got the socket on - of course then you have to deal with getting the ratchet on the socket.
I read some where that the later version had Torx bolts - this might have been easier if they had a smaller head than the 10mm bolt.
Overall - a lot better than pulling the intake off though.

shertex · #9 07-27-2012, 08:36 PM

This really is a great write-up. I think mine is due (on an 87 300D that I just got)....but need to check vacuum first. But I'm a little nervous about the opportunity for missteps....to which I'm particularly prone.

One question: is anyone able to confirm whether or not the 602/603 valve can be installed incorrectly so as to create a runaway diesel? Or do they somehow make these "idiot proof?"

compress ignite · #10 07-28-2012, 05:12 PM

YOU can (And Will) install incorrectly if the instructions and after action checks
are not followed.

shertex · #11 08-01-2012, 06:53 AM

Am doing this next week on 87 300D.

1. If I'm replacing metal one with plastic one, what are the washers I will need? (someone mentioned that)

2. If I want to replace the stop lever o-ring while I'm at, how do I do that without running into some of the aforementioned difficulties?

Thanks.

sixto · #12 08-01-2012, 01:43 PM

1) Washers? Clamps maybe? I don't recall needing more than the plastic actuator and a new o-ring.

2) There's nothing to replacing the stop lever o-ring but it's an unrelated job. Confirm the replacement actuator is working before you work on the stop lever.

Sixto
87 300D^2

shertex · #13 08-06-2012, 02:40 PM

As I type, I am in the middle of this job. Had to loosen injector lines to get ALDA off, but I finally did. Shutoff valve bolts are removed. The valve is loose from the IP but I can't get it out. I've got the stop lever in the down/off position and am trying to lift the SOV up and backwards, but no success yet. Any suggestions? Think I'll take a beer break.

sixto · #14 08-06-2012, 04:07 PM

Tip the top of the SOV towards the driver side fender as you pull it out. Use the replacement SOV as a guide for how the pin engages IP innards.

Sixto
87 300D^2

shertex · #15 08-06-2012, 04:27 PM

Got it....but I'm not sure how!