Picture #30 in the post shows the nut flange being punched to lock the nut in place. This is probably what they are talking about, and yes the flange must be "unpunched" to allow the nut to be removed. I hope you did this. Even with my flanged "unpunched" I had to tap the socket into place. Also while installing with a brand new flange, and nut, I had to tap the socket in to make sure it was seated. I did this to prevent the tabs from shearing off.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

I certainly did "unpunch" the flange, though I cant see how that would stop the socket from fitting, only from its ability to loosen the actual nut. The truth is its just a poorly made socket. It was so completely the wrong size, every pin had to be filed down before it would even come close to fitting. Don't buy technic tools version of this socket.

sorry to hear that. I got mine from zdmack(back when it was only $35, shipped). it's a tight fit, but works fine.

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Ask brian carlton for the loaner so I can ship it

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I may get to this job this weekend. Is there a reason not to pack the tapered roller bearings with grease before installation as one would do with the front wheel bearings?

This is not a bad repair if you take your time and do it right.

__________________
DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, DON'T BE A HACK
Political Correctness is NOT part of my vocabulary
and finally FIGHT CRIME...SHOOT BACK

'82 240D Stick
'85 300D Auto
Drove my first MB at age 16 1960 300SL W190

So I install the new bearing on the hub and then grease it as best I can, but I do not pack it before installing it. Is there any reason not to pack it before installing it on the hub?

If the Bearing is already installed there there is no more you can do.

However, you could have worked the Grease into the inside of the Bearing with your Fingers to pack it and they are supposed to be packed as that makes sure the Bearing is lubed from the very beginning.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4965230_pack-wheel-bearings.html

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The bearing should always be packed with grease before installing..

Thanks for the clarification! The FSM for this job (35-130) only says to coat or fill the races and seals (steps 21 and 24) whereas for the front bearings ( job 33-320) step 13 specifically calls for packing the bearings, hence my confusion...

I'll pack the bearings.

Good.


The translators (German to Chezk, Chezk to British, British to American) lost it or assumed basic MB training..

Dave:

I was hoping you could clarify a few things.

Apparently, you do not have to remove the whole axle? Just the outboard end? Did you have to use a drift as mentioned or did you somehow pry it away?

You also mentioned later that you had to "unpunch" the flange prior to trying to insert the socket. Are there any other things like that in the procedure? I'd rather plan for them before I start.

Great writeup by the way!

I've got some pictures of the process (slightly adapted) in this thread:-

W123 rear wheel bearing removal help needed

May be they help?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yes, of course! everything helps.

Did you replace the washer and spacer that hold the axle shaft in place (outboard side)? The manual says to replace the washers. I think there might be a crush spacer somewhere also? Is it the same spacer?

Here are the bits you need - I hope this makes it clear.

1153530142 Rear wheel bearing preload CRUSH spacer

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!