Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962? - Page 34 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shertex · #**496** 08-15-2014, 11:14 AM

A footnote to this long and helpful thread. If you do this on a 90 or a 91, and as a result disconnect the vacuum line to the passenger side of the engine compartment, make sure you block off the line on the passenger side that goes to the vacuum reservoir....otherwise you will unintentionally leave a leak in the vacuum system. This issue is moot effective production date 06/91 with MY92, when the vacuum reservoir was eliminated.

Chris_ · #**497** 08-15-2014, 09:29 PM

shertex thankyou...
when I do the 91...
can I remove the entire line on the passenger side leading from the vaccuum pump to the boost/egr solenoids... what I did on the 92 is I removed that entire line and plugged the T at the vacc. pump I also removed the line that was Teed into the ALDA diaphram that runs over to the computer vac to elect seensor by the battery. If I do this same thing on the 91 am I going to be creating the leak in the reservoir or unintentionaly removing it from the system thereby affecting the vac items such as door locks etc with the engine off ?

thanks and hope my description was understandable.

JamesDean · #**498** 08-15-2014, 11:14 PM

I think when I did my 91 I just corked that line that went to the passenger side. I should remove the T at the pump to properly fix it.

I also removed the computer lines that ran to the ALDA. I connected the ALDA directly to the manifold.

I dont believe that creates a leak because when looking at mine it seemed to be all pressure based stuff, none of it was vacuum reated.

shertex · #**499** 08-16-2014, 05:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_

shertex thankyou...
when I do the 91...
can I remove the entire line on the passenger side leading from the vaccuum pump to the boost/egr solenoids... what I did on the 92 is I removed that entire line and plugged the T at the vacc. pump I also removed the line that was Teed into the ALDA diaphram that runs over to the computer vac to elect seensor by the battery. If I do this same thing on the 91 am I going to be creating the leak in the reservoir or unintentionaly removing it from the system thereby affecting the vac items such as door locks etc with the engine off ?

thanks and hope my description was understandable.

Yes. Just make sure that the passenger side line that leads to the reservoir is plugged. That's what I neglected to do at first....and just figured out the other day.

Chris_ · #**500** 08-16-2014, 08:42 AM

Thanks shertex and JamesDean ... will do accordingly... a great weekend to all

BenzEnthusiast · #**501** 10-03-2014, 12:30 AM

The waste gate actuators are back in stock at ATP Turbo.

BenzEnthusiast · #**502** 10-08-2014, 05:41 PM

Found a hose barb for the turbo that has the same size barb as the wastegate from ATP Turbo. I got it today and it fits beautifully. It's also 1/8th NPT so, if you already used the barb from ATP Turbo, you can just unscrew that one and replace it with this one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnt-30307

Nojdog · #**503** 12-01-2014, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300D-91

I did mine to prevent future problems and it was the ideal time since the EGR valve was 99.9% non functional and being removed.

One quick tip, rather than cut & thread the rod I simply installed the nuts from the old unit on the new unit before installing it. This moved the actuator far enough that no cutting was required and allowed some pre-load.

I'm about to order parts for the swap, but just spent about an hour trying to find this "BC" egr kit. Does anyone know where to get it?

JamesDean · #**504** 12-01-2014, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nojdog

I'm about to order parts for the swap, but just spent about an hour trying to find this "BC" egr kit. Does anyone know where to get it?

BC = Brian Carlton. He is no longer on this forum. I believe he was banned a few months/years ago. He is active on other Mercedes forums though. I believe ROLLGUY on here also makes a EGR kit that is suitable to this application.

Nojdog · #**505** 12-05-2014, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

The only parts needed are the wastegate, and a fitting for the intake housing. I still have not found a wastegate that is a 100% direct fit, only the one shown below which requires modification (shortening the shaft, as described in the first page of this thread). Additional photos are at this link.

And no, there isn't any (safe) short-term fix... sorry!

I'm holding my new actuator up to the old vacuum operated one. In order to measure correctly, do I have to push the vacuum actuator all the way in? Probably a stupid question, but the vacuum one is a lot longer. Do I need to put vacuum on it to close it all the way before adjusting? I plan on using the old nuts for spacing technique.

engatwork · #**506** 12-05-2014, 07:05 PM

You need to add enough washers under the fasteners that are used to hold the wastegate actuator to position the linkage where it lines up with the pin or you can run a dye down the rod to add some thread, remove some of the rod and screw the linkage in some more. You want the linkage to line up with the pin when the actuator is in its' normalized state.

Nojdog · #**507** 12-06-2014, 01:15 AM

I just did the conversion in about an hour!
Before the conversion the car was doing 0-60 in 24 seconds.
On the first run after the swap 0-60 in 14seconds flat!
After adjusting the transmission linkage the car was doing 0-60 in 12.5 seconds and shifting perfect! It's a whole new car! Thanks guys! Here's a video of how I did it:
http://youtu.be/g9JZK9bwZbQ

sixto · #**508** 12-06-2014, 02:01 AM

The relaxed position of the vacuum actuator is wastegate flap wide open. The relaxed position of the pressure actuator is wastegate flap fully closed. Wouldn't you want to adjust the length of the pressure actuator to match the vacuum actuator with full vacuum applied? Did you check that the pressure actuator has as much stroke as the vacuum actuator or at least as much stroke as the swing of the wastegate flap arm?

WRT the video, why did you remove the vacuum reservoir from the BFS circuit? That's not an emissions device and it doesn't hurt performance. On the other hand, I don't know under what conditions there wouldn't be sufficient vacuum for the BFS. It's not like it loses supply vacuum at WOT or full load.

Sixto
MB-less

Nojdog · #**509** 12-06-2014, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

The relaxed position of the vacuum actuator is wastegate flap wide open. The relaxed position of the pressure actuator is wastegate flap fully closed. Wouldn't you want to adjust the length of the pressure actuator to match the vacuum actuator with full vacuum applied? Did you check that the pressure actuator has as much stroke as the vacuum actuator or at least as much stroke as the swing of the wastegate flap arm?

WRT the video, why did you remove the vacuum reservoir from the BFS circuit? That's not an emissions device and it doesn't hurt performance. On the other hand, I don't know under what conditions there wouldn't be sufficient vacuum for the BFS. It's not like it loses supply vacuum at WOT or full load.

Sixto
MB-less

I disconnected it because according to the vacuum diagram when I disconnected everything...the vacuum reservoir led back to the vacuum amp and it was a deadline. I might be wrong and if I am I want to correct it.

shertex · #**510** 12-06-2014, 11:46 AM

Interestingly, if you compare MY 90/91 to MY 92 vacuum diagrams, the elimination of the reservoir was one of the changes MB made...one of the reasons I concluded I could live without it.

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/07.1-0500.pdf