I see that that the yoke (sp?) clamps in place. That must be the secret to its success.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

This tool will work to make new ends for brake lines too right? If so I need to get one....so I am prepared when I need to replace sections of my brake lines in back in case they rust out....

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Yes ... just make sure it comes with the bubble flare die for 4.75 mm line.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

A proper tool is well into the $400 range.




a proper tool will NOT leave any marks on the tube from clamping (weak spots) The ridged is a nice tool, be sure to get the right double flare dies with it.

Cunfer tubing will make life easier. next time your at a PNP, rip some volvo brake lines off, as they are 90-10 nickel copper lines ("cunfer") Volvo's been using it since the late 70's, it will not rust and will bend and flare amazingly easy. (and I hope I spelled everything right)

__________________
-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)