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  #31  
Old 06-18-2008, 07:40 PM
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Looks like ForcedInduction has some customers!

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  #32  
Old 06-18-2008, 07:52 PM
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lol. I got all the ones I could find in the junkyards.

Last edited by ForcedInduction; 06-23-2008 at 01:00 AM.
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  #33  
Old 06-19-2008, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
lol. I got all the ones I could find in the junkyards. If the people I send a kit to will send in their old filter base as a core I can always make more for others.
At the local junk yard here you are lucky if the have 2 diesel Mercedesl. Even more lucky if they have not already been picked over.
The filter bases are cheap here $4.95 each but I bet shipping one cost close to $4 one way.
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  #34  
Old 06-19-2008, 04:16 PM
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An interesting note is that both the old style that needs a crush washer and the new style that uses an o-ring have the same 615 092 01 08 part number.
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  #35  
Old 06-20-2008, 02:17 AM
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Yes, I have an old style one from an 82 300SD and a new style from a 84 300SD (have not seen a 300D at the junk yard yet). As you said the housings have the same part number.
What surprised me was that the older style bolt has a skinny smaller 12mm OD section the extends about 23mm beyond the threaded end. I think it would have been nice if Mercedes had retained that section on the newer bolt as it is less likely to pull in air as the fuel would be drawn from close to the middle of the filter instead of at the top.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 06-20-2008 at 01:40 PM. Reason: insert photo
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  #36  
Old 07-16-2008, 10:44 AM
ForcedInduction
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Thumbs up

Avoid boltdepot.com, the bolts they sent me had to be repaired with a die because the threads were damaged.

I couldn't find any place that had a M16x1.5 banjo bolt longer than 30mm so I bought some 50mm bolts and drilled them into banjo bolts. The bracket I made let the filter clear the power steering brace but I had to slightly bend down the glowplug harness support bracket to install the filter. I didn't use any o-rings but I did use some red loctite on the bolt to lock it in place and seal the threads.

As was said before, it runs like normal. I actually have a tad more power which means I was due for a filter change anyways.

Not a bad mod at all, only 30 minutes to change and the police were only called once (It was 2am and somebody thought I was stealing my car ).

Only time will tell how well it performs as it loads up with crud.
Attached Thumbnails
Lower Micron Fuel Filter Mod-baldwin-bf7591-d-fuel-filter-mod-.jpg   Lower Micron Fuel Filter Mod-baldwin-bf7591-d-fuel-filter-mod-x.jpg   Lower Micron Fuel Filter Mod-baldwin-bf7591-d-fuel-filter-mod-b.jpg  
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  #37  
Old 07-16-2008, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
...

Only time will tell how well it performs as it loads up with crud.

Now that you have the new base setup, you now have many other choices of fuel filters.

So if it loads up and clogs sooner then your liking, you can always increase to a higher micron rating.

- Baldwin BF587-D: Has a nominal rating of 5 microns. Still better then stock, but taller and has a drain. I've used this filter many times on my Greasecar kit with good results.

- Wix Filter 33472, same as Napa 3472 and CarQuest 86472: Has a nominal rating of 10 microns, same as stock but has drain. Again I've used this with my Greasecar kit but no longer because of the obvious.

And for those that argue smaller microns = decrease in performance but still want a filter in place and one with a drain.

-Fleetguard FF5135: 16MICRONS (Sixteen Microns! This filter came with my Greasecar kit and I thought it was 10 microns originally! )

-Fleetguard FF5156: 16MICRONS (This is another standard part # Greasecar filter)


But I am sure there are others that use the same filter base type. Just do the research.
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  #38  
Old 10-18-2008, 10:22 AM
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question about filters...

I've been using the following process to filter my WVO -

1) Settle for @ a week
2) "Pre-Filter" with flour sack cloth
3) Filter through 10 micron bag
4) Re-Filter using old fuel pump to pump "fuel" through a "Pure-One" oil filter. (Pure-One by Purolator has a one micron rating)

This fuel comes out BEAUTIFULLY!

My question:

Is there a reason a Pure-One OIL filter couldn't be used as a fuel filter? (using the modifications listed above to install the filter)

There wouldn't be any water separation (I am not concerned with that, been running straight WVO thinned with Kerosene (1:5) with no problems for over six months), but would have finer filtration.
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  #39  
Old 10-18-2008, 02:27 PM
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is there anyway to remount the original lower micron filter before the newly added filter, making it a 3 phase filtering process or would the fuel lift pump be strong enough to handle that.
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  #40  
Old 10-18-2008, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thecorrupterx View Post
is there anyway to remount the original lower micron filter before the newly added filter, making it a 3 phase filtering process or would the fuel lift pump be strong enough to handle that.
If you mean leave the Clear Plastic primary filter (I believe is 20 microns) where it is on the suction side of the Fuel Supply Pump and put the stock Mercedes Secondary/final fuel filter (10 micron) between the added on final fuel filter (2-5 microns) the answer I believe is yes.
The last 2 filters would be on the pressurized side of the Fuel supply Pump and the Fuel Supply Pump is a positive displacement pump (a cam lobe inside of the Fuel Injection Pump pushes on a piston to create pressure).
It would be a matter of getting another filter housing ($5 at the junks where I live) with the Banjo fittings so you could hook your own hoses to it. You will need to make your own bracket to mount the Filter Housing on.
Way at the start of this Thread I mounted a big 2 micron filter as my Secondary/final filter and left the plastic Primary Filter where it is. What I plan to is to replace the plastic Primary Filter with a VW Rabbit Filter housing and Filter. It is a 10 micron filter like the stock Mercedes Secondary filter (however the threads are different).
The VW Rabbit filter is also longer and they come with a drain on the bottom.
This way I will have better filtration to protect the Fuel Supply pump and a drain to drain of any water.
As long as the Fuel is clean there will be no suction problems. If the filter plugs up then it has done the job it was supposed to do.
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  #41  
Old 10-18-2008, 05:09 PM
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The higher the micron of the filter, the harder it is to push fuel through it. Effectively dropping the input pressure to the IP just like a clogged old style filter.
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  #42  
Old 10-18-2008, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cervan View Post
The higher the micron of the filter, the harder it is to push fuel through it. Effectively dropping the input pressure to the IP just like a clogged old style filter.
Not if the media area of the filter increases as the micron rating decreases.

I should install my low-micron filter today. It's been sitting on the shelf for months
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  #43  
Old 10-18-2008, 06:05 PM
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Diesel fuel filter

O.K. you guys have inspired me.
I've got a Racor 2Micron 90GPH filter setup (that has a "Plastico" filter bowl
[You can see any naughty H2O] with a drain),that I used on a prior Diesel.
'Just need to re-engineer mount and feed/discharge lines.
'Only thing it doesn't have that Parker/Hannifin offers on newer filter heads
is the Electronic Water Alarm function.
Racor makes bigger water seperator filter elements,but you're starting to
enter the "I've got to move the engine so I can place the filter" area.
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  #44  
Old 10-18-2008, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
Not if the media area of the filter increases as the micron rating decreases.

I should install my low-micron filter today. It's been sitting on the shelf for months
I agree.
Both the 2 micron filter that I already have on and the VW Rabbit one are large. Especially the 2 micron on which is the Wix version of a CAT filter.
A pressure guage can always be put in if someone wanted to check for a pressure drop.
Also I would think with Diesel Fuel there is little chance of a lower mocron Filter itself causing a restriction but using SVO/WVO could cause a problem due to a higher viscosity.
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  #45  
Old 10-18-2008, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
And for those that argue smaller microns = decrease in performance but still want a filter in place and one with a drain.

-Fleetguard FF5135: 16MICRONS (Sixteen Microns! This filter came with my Greasecar kit and I thought it was 10 microns originally! )

-Fleetguard FF5156: 16MICRONS (This is another standard part # Greasecar filter)


But I am sure there are others that use the same filter base type. Just do the research.

I would have to dig thru some notes, but I believe those are absolute ratings, and are considered 10 mic nominal- similar to the the wix units referred to above. I have not gotten a wix "absolute" rating, even from their tech support, so I am using fleetguard filters. at least they dont cover it up w/ nominal ratings.

but- I may be wrong.

back on track...
I have an old housing or 2 in my parts bin, and really dont care for the tiny filter these cars have stock.

so the mod requires-

a 16x1.5 x 50mm bolt, drilled into a banjo type.

Drill and tap the housing?? or is this not needed with an Oring?

some sort of bracket to clear the PS assy.

an appropriate filter.

Am I missing something??

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