It has to be drilled and/or tapped just to fit the 16mm bolt. When its threaded and liquid thread sealer is used (No teflon tape!) an o-ring is not needed.

That converts the housing from the stock bolt-on filter to a spin-on filter.

I got mine installed today. I made a bracket to twist the filter from the stock position slightly to allow the taller filter to clear the power steering bracket.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Might be better to go back to page 1 and re-read how it was done.
The idea was DeliveryValves; I drilled out the 16mm bolt and tapped out the housing for him.
I did not have to drill the Filter Housing as the Tap I had cut its own way through the Aluminum. However, while I turned the Tap by hand I had the Filter Housing clamped down and the Tap chucked up in my drill press so that the tap went in straight.

The Baldwin BF7591-D has a lower Micron Rating than the WIX replacement that is a 10 nominal micron rated. If you plan interchange with another company right to them an find out what the Micron Rating for their brand of filter is.
If you go to the WIX site they give thier filter ratings in Nominal Microns or the give the Beta rating and ounce in a while the Nominal and Beta will be given.
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/index.asp

The NAPA 3528 (WIX 3328) that I am using for my Secondary/final filter is a Nominal 2 Micron filter (this means that on the firs pass 50% of the particles 2 microns or larger will be caught in the filter on the first pass). While not an "Absolute" rating it is a whole lot better than the stock Nominal 10 micron filter.
The origional CAT filter that I have to replace the NAPA 3520 is supposed to be an Absolute 1 or 2 micron filter (can't remember which). I feel the need to get some use out of the NAPA filter before I change it.

Another thought is that way more fuel goes through your filters than gets injected into your Engine; the rest is returned to your fuel tank. This means that after you have driven awhile all of the fuel in your fuel tank has been filtered and will be filtered again and again.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Is that bolt head on the bottom of the filter a water drain? I was thinking it was a stupid way to tighten down the filter!

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Yes, just a drain. I think there is a water level sensor available that can be installed in place of the plug too.

The filter should be tightened by hand only like every other spin-on filter.

Has anybody come across a fuel filter that is finer than the stock MB filter but the same size or SMALLER? It's OK if the threads are different.

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Ron Schroeder
'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY

None that I know of. However, lately they have been making diesels with the common rail fuel systems and the use finer filtration than the stock Mercedes filter.
If you know the year, make and model of the newer diesels you can run that info through the WIX filter interchange and it will give you the Nominal microns or Beta rating of the filters and also the filter dimensions and threads.
Go to Select A vehicle:
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/index.asp

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Are there any chains that I might be able to find some more BF7591-D filters at locally?

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I have never tried to buy them from any of the Auto Parts Chain stores but I doubt if they carry any Baldwin filters.
In my area Baldwin filters are sold by shops that sell Filters, hose and oil to the Truckers and local industry.
This goes to the Baldwin filter interchange site and in the upper right they list some of the applications for the filter.
Type in the filter numbe in one of the boxes and go down and click on "Find Crosses"; this will lead you to anothe page which displays the filter number twice. Click on the number that has the live link.
http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/

Here is a internet site that sells Baldwin filters. However, I have not bougth from them before.
http://www.bfwebexpress.com/default.htm?gclid=COq1lKHct5YCFQv7agodhR2aLw

Also the Baldwin site might have a "find a store" or seller search engine.

You might PM DeliveryValve and ask him if he would be willing to send you 1 or more and how much it would cost.
Also ForcedInduction bought some filters and modified some housings which I believe were for sale about the time this Thread was started.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Goto baldwinfilter.com and enter your zip on the "Distributor Locator". Like what Diesel911 said earlier, the companies that sell them are usually trucking or heavy equipment stores.


The local company I get them can ship out to anywhere if you buy more then one.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Interesting modification that restores one of the functions of the early 615 engines - the bleed screw at the center and top of the fuel filter housing. This feature was dropped for some reason when the 616 and later engines were outfitted. What was also dropped was the drain fitting at the bottom of the filter housing since spin-on/bolt-on filters replaced the cartridge and housing designs. By the way, all these filters, including the spin/bolt - on type, separate the fuel and water. All that is needed for that function is a low velocity, longer dwell time in the filter and the water will drop to the bottom. The "new" philosophy is to change the filter often enough that water won't build up to a level that is of concern.

The only issue I have with a much finer filter is cold weather performance. When the fuel gets cold it begins to precipitate wax and the larger size/greater surface area argument doesn't do much for that condition while the smaller passages will clog more quickly. So, lets see how this winter works for these mods. If there is no consequence from the finer filtering media in any measure of normal performance, this should be somewhat of a relief to the moving parts of the injection pump.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

The newer diesels using the Common Rail Fuel Systems are using filters in the region of 2 microns (I do not know it this is aboslute or nominal microns). In casual reading I have not read that they have fuel heaters on them.
Also the winter blended fuel is supposed to take care of the jelling problem.
As a side note about the time I started this thread the local NAPA counter guy that I have know for ofer 10 years told me there was a shortage of Racore 2 micron filter elements in my area as the Coast Guard is now demanding the Commercial Boats have 2 micron final filtration.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I learned not to rely on "winterized" Diesel driving across the country one year, long ago. What passed for Diesel suitable for January in one part of the country turned out to be inadequate as i approached the Rockies going West. And, I believe the CDI's have a fuel heater. I also believe my 1998 E300D TurboDiesel has an electrical heating element on the fuel line. Wouldn't bet a paycheck on either case, but without a heater the chances of smaller passages being clogged is higher. Just make sure you have and use some additive to prevent gelling when it gets good and cold. Letting it gel up first is not the best answer since, if you were like me and driving across the country, you might find that the car won't run worth a damn after, say, a stop to eat dinner. Late. When it is really freaking cold. And you have to sit in the car after pouring the anti-gel stuff from a truck stop in the tank that came in a can you had to poke a hole in to get it out and there was enough in the can for 150 to 300 gallons so you have the bulk left over in the trunk with a rag in the hole, and coax it to idle for half an hour to clear the filters and lines.....

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

What was the primary impetus for those that completed this mod?

injector longevity?

pump longevity?

high humidity regions?

other?

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Modification compulsion.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine