Baja nailed it. Going through the injectors is not the issue, its protecting the precision injection pump from damage.

It also has the bonus of being larger which means it will last longer. That can make the mod pay for itself since the filter is about the same price as the stock one.

I do not recall any problem with the wiring harness below the filter. I made a drilled spacer plate to move the filter towards the rear a little more than an inch. I did this as there is a casting web below the stock filter. Moving the filter away allows room for the larger filter to drop down during a filter change.
DeliveryValve did not ask me to make a plate for him but I sent one anyway. I do not know if he will need it or not. The filter I used bsides being a lot fatter is also longer so I needed more room.
If the wires are in the way I think there is enough play in the to move them out of the way.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Okay. I have 3 kits available that include modified base, extension plate, metric hardware, new crush washers and M16x1.5 banjo bolt. For extra I can include a BF7591-D filter. Price is TBA as soon as I find a banjo bolt long enough (The one in the picture is about 1/2" too short to work).

The bleeder screw is unnecessary. There is already a bleeder hole in the filter base that bleeds air from the filter to the return side. Its under the banjo bolt where the two return lines merge into the cigar hose. (see pictures) All you have to do is pump the primer and it will bleed itself, even if you don't fill the filter first.

Attached Thumbnails

     

I would do it if the cetane rating in the U.S. was about 80 or something like that but 40 is the highest I've seen. I'm looking for a 20 micron filter to replace the 10 micron, which is overkill. I made a 150 micron filter once but it let too much fuel pass too quickly and killed the transmission when it couldn't handle the extra tork from all of the extra fuel, I think.

BenzDiesel

What? I don't think you know what your talking about. The flow rate of filters is rated in GPM or similar. Micron rating is the size of particle the filter will pass. Both of which have nothing to do with power unless of course the filter is much to small (too small flow rate).

__________________
For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel

Anyway, I'm not ASE certified. I'm just speaking from experience of having worked on and owned these Mercedes cars and had to get my money untied up no matter what. Also, I've found that if you follow Mercedes theories as announced, you will never get out of the woods.

BenzDiesel

Yeah, why run a filter at all?






I'll take one!

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I'll put your name on one.

Injected fuel quantity is not controlled by the fuel filter. The only thing installing a 150 micron filter in place of the stock 10 will do is destroy the injection system.

I'd have to agree.

I installed the filter today and basically the car operates the same. No other surprises happened. See pictures of the install.

Pic 1: I am using an O-Ring gasket to seal the banjo. My initial thought of using gas rated Teflon tape is flawed. There is possibility if parts of the tape breaks off, it could get into the IP… Bad news! The O - Ring gasket could be reused quite a few times.

Pic 2: ForcedInduction had a question of what to do with the GP wiring loom located underneath the fuel filter. To create more room to install a taller filter, I unhooked to factory zip tie to the loom and removed the bracket. The wiring loom just hangs lower now and is in no danger of hitting anything else.

Pic3: When I installed the filter head. : I kept the driver side bolt intact and then I clocked the filter head to a 1 o’clock position, so the taller filter can clear the power steering mount web casting

I then I created an extension bracket from a piece of scrap metal I got from the throttle linkage bracket that links up the cruise control. It is an angled bracket that matches the anodized finished of the rest of the motor.
Also, I used a heavy duty spacer so the A/C line bracket and new filter bracket can rest on it.


Pic 4: Here is a shot of the setup from the back view.
Notice the bracket and spacer setup.
Also note the hose setup. Since I have a GreaseCar kit installed in my car, I my lines arranged differently then the stock setup. I am almost positive that you don’t have to use new rubber hoses for the intake and out-take lines this mod. I would imagine you would just gingerly move them. But don’t take my word on it. Maybe someone else doing this mod will let us know.

Pic 5: Shot from the top. Notice how the filter head is clocked. And notice the bracket that I made that is mounted on the top. The bottom of the filter head mount has about less then 3/4 of it contacting the power steering bracket. I think this is good enough to make it stable along with the new bracket on top.

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I made the bracket straight out 1" and over 1/4" (no twisting) to minimize the chance of a stock plastic fuel line breaking, but your bracket will work just as well for those that have new lines.

Excellent points about the bleeder and the plastic lines. I could imagine those 20 plus year old lines the breaking.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

The bleeder screw is unnecessary. There is already a bleeder hole in the filter base that bleeds air from the filter to the return side. Its under the banjo bolt where the two return lines merge into the cigar hose. (see pictures) All you have to do is pump the primer and it will bleed itself, even if you don't fill the filter first.[/quote]

On this forum I have read that during a filter change some members loosen one the fuel outlet Banjo fitting to bleed the air out to make using the hand primer pump faster and less work. For people who do things this way the I believe the air bleed screw would be desirable as it is less likely to leak after use than one of the Banjo connections. Also, with a larger filter it means more pumping to fill it.
For myself I do not loosen the fuel outlet Banjo bolt but just keep pumping until I hear air bleeding out of the IP. If I did have a convenient air bleed screw I would use it and not have to pump so much (my filter is even bigger so takes more pumping to fill it).
Also I prefer not to pre-fill the filter.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here is one of the other ways I thought of to modify the filter housing that dose not use a Banjo bolt at all. You tap the top of the filter housing for a 1/2" pipe plug (use a newer style housing that uses the O-ring type Banjo bolt as it has a straight inside diameter). You make a threaded sleeve that will be JB weld epoxied into the threade bottom part of the housing. Epoxing the threaded sleeve inplace solves the problem of unfilterd fuel leaking by the threads.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

i will take number 2 and 3 if the price is right. but 1 for sure. i have a 240D and 300D that these would go in.

PM or Email me.

__________________

Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

This looks like a really cool mod. Looks like it will fit on my 85 TD. I
love the concept of the 2 mic filter and the "easy bleed" screw. If it
comes in at a "reasonable" cost I'll take a kit,thanks

__________________
85 300TD FED-Daily
84 300SD-Wife's
86 XJS-Sunday
66 GMC-Work- Given to my stepson
83 BMW Airhead- Given to my stepson