Ditto. I changed mine without removing the lines right after I got it. WHAT A PITA!

Since then I've removed the lines for other reasons, and I can't imagine why anyone would want to mess with trying to change them without removing the lines. I can pull them off in about 5 minutes and they go back on just about as fast.

I still use the gear wrenches, but without the lines in the way I can do it much faster and without wasting time retrieving nuts or GPs I've dropped.

I'd bet $5 i can do it as fast or faster by removing the lines as anybody who doesn't remove the lines. And my hands don't get cut up in the process...

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Including bleading the fuel system? I'll take that bet.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Yup, when putting the injector lines back on I fully tighten them at the pump, and only screw the nuts down finger-tight at the injectors.

Next I use my remote starter switch to crank the engine 2 or 3 times for 20-30 seconds at a time with a 20 or 30 second pause in between (to avoid overheating the starter) and that pushes all the air out and primes the lines.

When I start to see a little fuel bleeding past the nuts at the injectors I tighten them down snug with the wrench. Cycle the GPs and hit it again and it fires right up every time.

I've done this at least 3 or 4 times during the process of swapping injectors and prechambers when troubleshooting the problem with my old motor, then again when I put my injectors into the motor I swapped into my car.

Worked every time to prime the lines and get it running again in about 3-4 minutes.

So 5 minutes to pull the lines, 5 minutes to put them back on, and another 5 minutes to reprime them. I easily save more than that 15 minutes just by being able to get my hands in there to screw the GPs in and out and the 8mm nuts on and off. Not to mention no time wasted fishing out dropped 8mm nuts or GPs from between the IP and motor.

Well worth the time IMO...

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

I used a piece of old fuel line to get them out of the hole,and the same for the replacement. Gear wrench is the only way to go.

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1972 SILVER 280SE
1989 SILVER 300 SEL
1984 DARK BLUE 300D EURO

That sir is a drill bit and not a reamer

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment