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  #1  
Old 03-16-2009, 09:41 AM
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Question Details on installing push button switch to bypass ignition switch?

I've decided to bypass ignition switch to save the headache of replacing ignition switch, cylinder, housing, etc and what else maybe causing no resistance to key turning on 82 300D - everything lights up but no final ignition. What's the best way to install PB switch? One wire from switch directly to battery - battery to silenoid, silenoid to switch? Wire size requirement? Whats best place to access inside of car - or drill? Thanks for any advice.
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  #2  
Old 03-16-2009, 09:58 AM
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That will be a bigger headache than you can imagine. Are you sure it wouldn't be easier to just buy a new ignition switch for $30? The resistance you speak of, what returns the key to position 2 on its own after turning the key to start, is provided solely by the electrical ignition switch. They're cheap and pretty easy to replace.
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  #3  
Old 03-16-2009, 11:18 AM
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I've read several threads and it seems like taking out cylinder to get to ignition switch - paper clips, beveled edges, lower steering column, steering lock pin, majic wand, etc - maybe it sounds moe complicated and frustrating than it is? I thought a bypass would simplify things?
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  #4  
Old 03-16-2009, 11:38 AM
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replacing the ignition switch isnt that hard .....

remove the 10mm holding the clamp together and put the key in and turn it to remove the plug connector......
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  #5  
Old 03-16-2009, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oracle12345 View Post
replacing the ignition switch isnt that hard .....

remove the 10mm holding the clamp together and put the key in and turn it to remove the plug connector......
Pretty much it.

In a pinch, I pulled one in a salvage yard without doing anything more than wiggling the electrical plug off the back, and blindly removing the three common screws with a stubby screwdriver.

Just remember to disconnect the battery before you start. At some point, you'll get the bright idea of using a screwdriver to help with wiggling off the electrical plug, and you don't want to be sticking metal around there with power to it.
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'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #6  
Old 03-16-2009, 06:20 PM
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Thanks for the advice...I'll go back to trying to replace ignition switch. I took off the kicker panel and there seems to be alot going on down there?! Lots of wires going to one cylindrical silver piece - the switch I imagine?? This piece will come apart? ...and replace only back half - the switch? Is there a link to see this work done? Thanks again for helping me decide to this the right way.
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  #7  
Old 03-16-2009, 09:11 PM
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I had the same problem in my 240D. If you can get the tumbler out, use a big screw driver and see if you can turn the ign switch on the column. If it turns and starts, the problem is in the tumbler not turning all the way. I was able to fix my tumbler by washing it repeatedly in Zep Citrus cleaner to get the sticky gunk out. The gunk was what caused my tumbler to jam and not turn all the way.
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g. faircloth View Post
Thanks for the advice.....and replace only back half - the switch? Is there a link to see this work done? Thanks again for helping me decide to this the right way.
if you run PC, you can get epc net(electronic parts catalog) for free. while it is not a step by step, it can help to see it all laid out there.

a quick search will net you the details.
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Old 03-17-2009, 01:32 AM
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I'll try to take some pictures of the switch and wiring and how they go together for you. Should help, unless someone beats me to it.
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'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #10  
Old 03-17-2009, 09:42 AM
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The pics would be great!!! I've ordered the switch and hope to have my son back in his car soon -- and out of my mine!! Things look tight under there but can the switch be replaced without pulling everything out?
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  #11  
Old 03-17-2009, 12:02 PM
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I have my windsheild and dash out of the car atm it would be easy for me take some picts.
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
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  #12  
Old 03-17-2009, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g. faircloth View Post
The pics would be great!!! I've ordered the switch and hope to have my son back in his car soon -- and out of my mine!! Things look tight under there but can the switch be replaced without pulling everything out?
Again, I pulled an electrical switch out of a junkyard car using only a stubby screwdriver. It's tight, but doable. Getting it back in will be tougher. For the sake of simplicity, it may really be best to unlock the ignition and rotate the assembly so that the switch is aimed down and you can actually see the three screws you need to remove and replace.

Pictures pending after I get some coffee and make a run to the parts store.
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- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #13  
Old 03-17-2009, 02:16 PM
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I have a pushbutton start. The key now locks the wheel, and provides power to the start button.
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  #14  
Old 03-18-2009, 11:36 PM
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attached is a picture of the ignition switch
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Last edited by Oracle12345; 09-02-2009 at 12:44 PM.
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  #15  
Old 03-19-2009, 12:04 AM
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Beat me to it. I just sat down with my camera to upload my photos.

Sigh.
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- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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Old 03-19-2009, 12:04 AM
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