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#1
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Alignment issue
Took the 82 in for an alignment today. I understand very little about this.
They said that they can not get it in all of the way. Here are the numbers. Left Right -0.7 Camber 0.3 10.8 Caster 11.5 .23 Toe .19 He can not see anything wrong. It is not out by much. As long as it does not wear tires, I am tempted to leave it alone. If it wears tires, which bushings are bad? thanks Doug
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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside |
#2
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take it to the dealer, they'll get it perfect.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#3
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Was the alignment done on a car with old suspension rubber parts or was it done after replacing the rubber bushings?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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The upper control arm bushings are notorious for sagging and causing negative camber. (Meaning that the top of the tire leans inboard.)
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#5
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I did not replace any rubber bushings.
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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside |
#6
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Mercedes might not be able to do a better job if it has the old rubber on it.
I attempted/did my own alignment and I wish my specs were as close as yours (with all new rubber bushings and replaced worn parts). As off spec as it is I have been driving on all kinds of roads and speeds and it seems OK and so far no noticable abnormal Tire wear and no shaking. I think as long as your Tires don't have a problem and the Car tracks well when driving it should be OK.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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That helps me some. I did UCAs last fall and didn't get a new alignment, the tires have worn on the outer edge now. So the last alignment was spoiled with my new UCAs and I need a new alignment (that last part I already knew...)
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Sadly Benz-less |
#8
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car has a slight pull to the right. I will see what happens as far as wear goes. Already did one front end, Not really excited to do another...
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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside |
#9
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But think of the satisfaction in knowing it will last a long time and not wear out the tires...
There really are no shortcuts on this.... do keep the toe in set regularly in the meantime.. you can do this yourself... lots of threads about it in archives...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#10
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Do you know if the readings they gave are viewed from some one sitting in the Drivers seat or the view looking at front of the car when it comes to Left or Right?
Left Right -0.7 Camber 0.3 10.8 Caster 11.5 .23 Toe .19 Did they run out of threads for adjustment down by the Guide Rod and the Guide Rod mpunt?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
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I would assume sitting in the car. They said both wheels in effect were leaning to the right causing the pull to the right.
Found an issue tonight, see the thread on my vibration issue, and see if that would cause it?
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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside |
#12
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Quote:
The Guide Rod adjustment is mainly responsiable for the Caster Adjustment and due to a lot of threads it an adjustments there can give you a greater range of adjustment on the Chamber, but you may sacrafice the Caster adjustment (out of spec Caster is not as likely to cause Tire wear problems). I ended up with the Wheels in a similar situation except that in order to get the Camber as close as I could (so it would not eat up the Tires) I had to reduce the Caster to the 7-8 range (around town it steers easier and still functions OK on the Freeway). In reducing the Caster to get the Chamber I ran out of adjustment down by the Guide Rod (to reduce the Caster you shorten the length of the Guide Rod). But, I in my case I suffered damage when I hit a 3-4 inch high Island on the Front Drivers side hard enough that it ruined the Rim on that side and cracked the Rear Trailing Arm on that side. On the Passanger side I had to do considerable Beating to get the rusted in Eccentric Bolt out of the Control Arm Bushing. So it could be in my case the Suspension Mounting Points have taken a beating; making it difficult to adjust correctly.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#13
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Sometimes the range of adjustment is not adequate to overcome sagging bushings (especially UCA's) and worn ball joints.
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#14
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Quote:
Why didn't they align it? |
#15
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I think this negative camber was made famous by John DeLorean...when he was a bigwig at GM he drove his Mercedes into their shop and asked what it was that made it handle differently from the GM cars... if I remember correctly... it was this negative camber..which got incorporated into the Monte Carlo suspension.. about 1970 I think.. my aunt had one of those cars and it really did feel different...and NICE...it floated compared to most other cars..
Or I could just be making this whole thing up....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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