bummed.... engine running but accessories not turning. 1982 300CD Turbo - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

lutzTD · #31 10-19-2009, 11:37 AM

anyone have a procedure to tighten the main nut to 270 - 330 Nm (199-243 ftlbs) I dont know if my torque wrench goes that high. how do I hold the engine from turning?

tangofox007 · #32 10-19-2009, 11:59 AM

There is a notch in the balancing disc. Jam a chisel or extension bar in the notch and under the oil pan lip. (That might sound a little "shade tree," but it's precisely what the FSM calls for.)

You are going to replace the front crankshaft seal and spacer before you reinstall the balancer, right?

lutzTD · #33 10-19-2009, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

There is a notch in the balancing disc. Jam a chisel or extension bar in the notch and under the oil pan lip. (That might sound a little "shade tree," but it's precisely what the FSM calls for.)

You are going to replace the front crankshaft seal and spacer before you reinstall the balancer, right?

I did not plan on it. do you have a picture of the spacer? I dont recall seeing anything on the crank

tangofox007 · #34 10-19-2009, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutzTD

...do you have a picture of the spacer? I dont recall seeing anything on the crank

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1982-Mercedes--Benz-300d-Engine--Mechanical&yearid=1982%40%401982&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6190%3AMBC%7C1504%3AED%7C10000135%40%40300D&catid=240154%40%40Engine+Mechanical&subcatid=240190@@Crankshaft+Seal+Spacer&mode=PA

lutzTD · #35 10-19-2009, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1982-Mercedes--Benz-300d-Engine--Mechanical&yearid=1982%40%401982&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6190%3AMBC%7C1504%3AED%7C10000135%40%40300D&catid=240154%40%40Engine+Mechanical&subcatid=240190@@Crankshaft+Seal+Spacer&mode=PA

ok, how hard is it to replace the seal and spacer? I have the 2 holes drilled but I have not reamed them to size so I could take it apart if it is really important to change that seal

tangofox007 · #36 10-19-2009, 12:19 PM

Changing the seal isn't necessarily essential, but it would help assure that you don't need to remove the balancer any time soon. I would hate to have to do all that work again in a few thousand miles because an old seal decided to leak.

lutzTD · #37 10-19-2009, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

very smart. Some simple measurements will allow you to do that very well.

I'd love to see how you do that, please post.

I decided to match balance the new balancer myself. both balancers had drilled balance points at 4 positions on the outer edge. using the depth guage side of a caliper I measured to the drill point on the old and new. 2 on the new one being slightly shallower. and 1 deeper by .02 and the other by .175. for the 2 not deep enough I just hit it a couple times with a 5/8 drill to remove a little material. the drill point angle on my drill was greater so it skimmed the out edge, for this reason I decided not to go the full .020. On the two that were deeper, I marked the rim opposite the holes and removed .175 in one place and decided not to take the .02 off the second becuase with the drill point angle its hardly any material at all. this should get me very close to the original balancer value. I have found several posts that say this is not necissary, but the amount I removed and the diameter of the balancer make me feel like even if its wrong its so little it wont make much difference.

lutzTD · #38 10-19-2009, 12:31 PM

here is a picture of my drill fixture. it is 1" thick with a tight fit center hole and 2 9/32 holes at the crank snout diamter. I will drill the holes then ream them to 5/16. this will allow my 2 stainless dowels to have the slight press fit as designed

kerry · #39 10-19-2009, 12:39 PM

Are you going to keep the drill fixture and put it into the tool rental program here? I'm sure others will be facing the same situation at some time.

lutzTD · #40 10-19-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Are you going to keep the drill fixture and put it into the tool rental program here? I'm sure others will be facing the same situation at some time.

its a one time use unfortunately. once I ream the holes through the 9/32 holes they will be 5/16, which is going to be too big to drill the 9/32 holes in the future. for a true reuse fixture you have to use guide inserts.

barry123400 · #41 10-19-2009, 02:57 PM

Overbore the holes in the jig when finished and make guide sleeves. You are a machinist. Occasional rental income never hurts over the years. Helps others as well.
Sounds like if the taper on the crank was not reduced much you will be good to go.

lutzTD · #42 10-19-2009, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry123400

Overbore the holes in the jig when finished and make guide sleeves. You are a machinist. Occasional rental income never hurts over the years. Helps others as well.
Sounds like if the taper on the crank was not reduced much you will be good to go.

it pressed on pretty tight with the bolt, and I had to remove it three times to get the orientation correct. I dont believe the shaft is tapered. the dowels and the bolt torque hold the balancer in place

kerry · #43 10-19-2009, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutzTD

anyone have a procedure to tighten the main nut to 270 - 330 Nm (199-243 ftlbs) I dont know if my torque wrench goes that high. how do I hold the engine from turning?

Tango answered the holding question but I don't see an answer to the torque question. With the radiator out I think a torque multiplier should fit in there and make the torquing relatively easy.

moon161 · #44 10-19-2009, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutzTD

anyone have a procedure to tighten the main nut to 270 - 330 Nm (199-243 ftlbs) I dont know if my torque wrench goes that high. how do I hold the engine from turning?

Jam something in the balancer and invoke the power of grayskull.

I think I used a few feet of lever, put one hand near the socket and the other at the end of the lever.

tangofox007 · #45 10-19-2009, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Tango answered the holding question but I don't see an answer to the torque question.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutzTD

anyone have a procedure to tighten the main nut to 270 - 330 Nm (199-243 ftlbs) I dont know if my torque wrench goes that high.

If lutzTD doesn't know the range of his torque wrench, how is anyone else supposed to know?

I used a torque wrench which had an upper limit of 250 ft/lbs. I did not find reaching the specified torque to be much of a challenge, but I am probably stronger than the average old guy.