Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-30-2009, 11:06 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Spotsylvania Va
Posts: 23
Question help on pulling head to replace a head gasket

any suggestion on pulling a head to replace a head gasket? just bought a 1987 300sdl with head gasket blown. thanks for any info.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-30-2009, 11:15 AM
JEBalles's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Carlisle, MA
Posts: 1,225
Head's probably cracked/warped. It'd be cheaper/easier to just replace the whole engine probably.

If you want to pull and possibly replace the head, are you looking for the whole procedure?
__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-30-2009, 12:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 3,237
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
Head's probably cracked/warped. It'd be cheaper/easier to just replace the whole engine probably.

If you want to pull and possibly replace the head, are you looking for the whole procedure?
Why is replacing the head more work than an engine swap? Why do you suggest an engine without more diagnosis? I haven't done either on these cars and am needing more information leading to your conclusion.
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting. 84SD 180,000. Thinking of painting both.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-30-2009, 01:27 PM
Crazy_Nate's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Hampton Roads
Posts: 567
Two questions:

1. Was the engine overheated?
2. What head casting do you have?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
The head number is cast in the aluminum. It is on the left (driver's) side of the head and almost exactly under the air pipe that crosses over the valve cover. You don't need a mirror but a bright flashlight will help and hope that there's not too much oil and dirt. You have to look between the injector hard lines and see a little bit of the number, then shift your view and see a little bit more. The number should be 603 016 xx 01 where xx is the head revision number. AFAIK, the choices for "xx" are 14, 17, 20, and 22. The "603" means it was first used in the 603 engine; the "016" means it is part of the air intake system, and the "xx" means the revision number. I forget what the final 01 is and it could be some other number too.

Jeremy
The #14 heads are susceptible to cracking if overheated - if this is the case, it's not simply a question of replacing the head gasket. If the previous owner hasn't divulged all of the information, and you were just told it 'needs a headgasket' - it might need a bit more work than you were expecting. If you plan on doing the job, it should be checked for flatness and pressure tested at a machine shop.
__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D Turbo
W124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-30-2009, 02:02 PM
mplafleur's Avatar
User Friendly
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
Posts: 2,939
I just did this last month. It's not bad to just pull the head.

First and most important:

Hand turn engine to TDC (leave it there and NEVER move it!)

Let's see, remove these...

Fan and cowling (no need to remove radiator)
Fan belt and belt tensioner
Vacuum pump
Crossover intake pipe
EGR valve body and related stuff
Injector lines (leave injection pump in place!)
Intake manifold
Glow plug wires, sensor wires
Timing chain tensioner (the whole thing, not just the center!)
Fuel line to and from the injection pump
Bracket holding the spin-on filter (pull the whole thing off to the side)
Aluminum heat shield between turbo and coolant expansion tank
Unbolt the turbo bracket from the head (I left the turbo in place)
Valve cover

Mark the cam sprocket and chain. (you don't have to, but it's easier if you do)
Unbolt cam sprocket and gently tap it off the cam. Once it is off, you can remove the sprocket and then what I did is tie-wrap the chain to the banana shaped chain tensioner rail to the left of the chain. If the chain falls in, it can be pulled back up, it's not going to loose it's timing.

There is a timing chain guide in the head that needs to be removed by removing two pins in the head. A bolt threaded in to the pins with some washers/bolts (with a hole larger than the pin). I used to use the bolt method, but now use a pin puller tool.

Like one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-Chain-Guide-Rail-Pin-Puller-Remover-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56385c4f0cQQitemZ370312761100QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

You will have to untie the chain to get the guide rail out of the head.

Now the camshaft can be removed. Unscrew bearing cap bolts 1, 5 and 6. Now loosen bearing cap bolts 2, 3, 4, and 7 one turn each until counterpreassure is reduced. Remove cam and now the head bolts can be removed in the opposite order of tightening. So loosen them from the two ends moving inward to the center of the head. Don't forget to remove the two allen head cap bolts inside the head next to the timing chain.

Use two intake manifold bolts and bolt the bracket that was on the manifold for lifting the engine back onto the head.

I hope I didn't forget anything, but the head can now be removed.
__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-30-2009, 02:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 1,091
If you know what you are doing: one day off, one day on.

Get a factory service manual.

91 350 SDL Head R & R some photos in that thread may be useful

The previous post suggested removing a few things that I do not think need to be removed:
Vacuum pump
fuel lines to and from the IP

I zip tied the chain to the cam sprocket and it passed through the head just fine.

If you drop anything down the timing chain passage to the oil pan, you have to get it back out, which may mean removing the oil pan. If not, this may happen to you: Oil pressure gone to zero
__________________
Greg

2007 ML 320 CDI
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1984 190D (Deerslayer) on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix to get a make over
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO (sold)

2007 ML320 CDI .. / 2005 E320 CDI .../ 1998 SLK 230 .../ 1991 Daihatsu Rocky
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-30-2009, 08:30 PM
mplafleur's Avatar
User Friendly
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
Posts: 2,939
I removed the vacuum pump so that the timing chain would not move as the roller bearing is pressing against the timing device. I don't know why they didn't design it so that at TDC, the roller would be at a valley so that it wouldn't disturb the timing.

I would take no chance that the timing chain move. Once it does, you're screwed. Removing the vacuum pump is easy.

Keeping the sprocket on the chain only gets in my way, it's up to the DIYer to determine what's comfortable for them.

I didn't mark the chain/sprocket or tie the sprocket to the chain. I just tried the sprocket a few times in different positions until it matched up with the cam at TDC.
__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-31-2009, 12:44 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 690
Yup.

Totally agree. Don't mess with the radiator or the turbocharger. The procedure outlined in the WIS makes this job MUCH more difficult than it needs to be.

You'll have to remove the windshield washer reservoir, too.

Jay
__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-07-2010, 12:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Spotsylvania Va
Posts: 23
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by mplafleur View Post
I just did this last month. It's not bad to just pull the head.

First and most important:

Hand turn engine to TDC (leave it there and NEVER move it!)

Let's see, remove these...

Fan and cowling (no need to remove radiator)
Fan belt and belt tensioner
Vacuum pump
Crossover intake pipe
EGR valve body and related stuff
Injector lines (leave injection pump in place!)
Intake manifold
Glow plug wires, sensor wires
Timing chain tensioner (the whole thing, not just the center!)
Fuel line to and from the injection pump
Bracket holding the spin-on filter (pull the whole thing off to the side)
Aluminum heat shield between turbo and coolant expansion tank
Unbolt the turbo bracket from the head (I left the turbo in place)
Valve cover

Mark the cam sprocket and chain. (you don't have to, but it's easier if you do)
Unbolt cam sprocket and gently tap it off the cam. Once it is off, you can remove the sprocket and then what I did is tie-wrap the chain to the banana shaped chain tensioner rail to the left of the chain. If the chain falls in, it can be pulled back up, it's not going to loose it's timing.

There is a timing chain guide in the head that needs to be removed by removing two pins in the head. A bolt threaded in to the pins with some washers/bolts (with a hole larger than the pin). I used to use the bolt method, but now use a pin puller tool.

Like one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-Chain-Guide-Rail-Pin-Puller-Remover-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56385c4f0cQQitemZ370312761100QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

You will have to untie the chain to get the guide rail out of the head.

Now the camshaft can be removed. Unscrew bearing cap bolts 1, 5 and 6. Now loosen bearing cap bolts 2, 3, 4, and 7 one turn each until counterpreassure is reduced. Remove cam and now the head bolts can be removed in the opposite order of tightening. So loosen them from the two ends moving inward to the center of the head. Don't forget to remove the two allen head cap bolts inside the head next to the timing chain.

Use two intake manifold bolts and bolt the bracket that was on the manifold for lifting the engine back onto the head.

I hope I didn't forget anything, but the head can now be removed.
thank you for all the info pulled the hed last night and all went fine. your info was better then alldata.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-07-2010, 12:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Spotsylvania Va
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_Nate View Post
Two questions:

1. Was the engine overheated?
2. What head casting do you have?



The #14 heads are susceptible to cracking if overheated - if this is the case, it's not simply a question of replacing the head gasket. If the previous owner hasn't divulged all of the information, and you were just told it 'needs a headgasket' - it might need a bit more work than you were expecting. If you plan on doing the job, it should be checked for flatness and pressure tested at a machine shop.
ok got the head pulled and it was very visible, three crackes
. any body no what all heads will fit on this? or have a good head for sale ?
Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-07-2010, 01:12 PM
mplafleur's Avatar
User Friendly
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
Posts: 2,939
Quote:
Originally Posted by blount1966 View Post
thank you for all the info pulled the hed last night and all went fine. your info was better then alldata.
You are welcome. I'm glad I was able to help.

I don't remember what head casting number you have, #14, 17, or 22. But if it is anything other than a number 14, you might be able to get it fixed.

My #22 has a small leak, but I don't want to take it off yet.
__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-07-2010, 09:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Spotsylvania Va
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by mplafleur View Post
You are welcome. I'm glad I was able to help.

I don't remember what head casting number you have, #14, 17, or 22. But if it is anything other than a number 14, you might be able to get it fixed.

My #22 has a small leak, but I don't want to take it off yet.
unfortunatly i have the #14 head. are the others interchangeable? and are the other heads cast or aluimiumn. I am new to these cars but i am learning alot fast.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-07-2010, 11:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
Posts: 6,510
There is no cast iron version of your head. I have to wonder myself if one could have been manufactured and made to work if mercedes tried. Usually a number 17 0r 22 head is located if possible for a replacement.

They can be cracked too just less likely. The cheapest source might be a pick and pull if you have any. Or advertise in our parts wanted forum. Ocassionally available on ebay used as well.

You will have to check in the archives but above a certain casting number there is machine work involved I think. Plus you have to have the newer style hard injection lines. The number fouteen head has gone a tremendous distance on some cars. I think it is just more fragile than the later head numbers.

These engines do not want even one good overheating. So make sure all components in the cooling system are in really good shape after you install a replacement head. It would be a shame to lose another head to an old radiator hose for example.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-08-2010, 11:11 AM
C Sean Watts's Avatar
NOCH EIN PILS!!
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 1,318
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
Head's probably cracked/warped.
Not entirely true, the gasket was redesigned both independently of and along with the head in order to fix an oil leak failure in front of #1 cylinder. It's relatively quick to rule out a cracked head in these engines - once they are off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
It'd be cheaper/easier to just replace the whole engine probably.
For an OM603 the whole engine is MUCH more costly than even a new head, the exception being finding one in a junk yard where the owners don't quite know what they have. OM617s are 'cheap' and plentiful in comparison.

Factory procedure tends to be lengthy.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf cyl head.pdf (304.4 KB, 124 views)
__________________
1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page