Konstan's 1982 300D Engine Out Thread - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rrgrassi · #46 03-12-2010, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

all they need is a 12-point metric socket. Not a specialty socket.

Is it a 12 point, or a triple square? To me they look the same, but I have read that they are actually different. What is the difference?

jt20 · #47 03-12-2010, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

Is it a 12 point, or a triple square? To me they look the same, but I have read that they are actually different. What is the difference?

I have never verified with my own eyes, but by geometry, squares have 90* corners where a 12-pt socket will have 2 hexagons with 120* corners.

thats my story and I'm stickin' to it!

rrgrassi · #48 03-12-2010, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

I have never verified with my own eyes, but by geometry, squares have 90* corners where a 12-pt socket will have 2 hexagons with 120* corners.

thats my story and I'm stickin' to it!

That makes sense. But on a bolt head, the triple square and the 12 point look alike. I have never seen them side by side for comparison. I just remember reading that MB liked to use triple square as well.

DeliveryValve · #49 03-12-2010, 02:55 PM

Regular 12 pt socket will get the rod caps off. I believe it is 14mm.

Triple square bit is indeed 12 pt and fits in a 12pt socket perfectly if you compare them.

.

rrgrassi · #50 03-12-2010, 03:01 PM

So, then needing a $pecial $ocket forthe triple square is not true? If so, that is a good thing!

Mathmatically, it make sense Least common multple is 12.

DeliveryValve · #51 03-12-2010, 03:07 PM

Yeah check it out. You still have that rod and piston combo I sent you a while back? Put a 12 pt socket on it.

You will only need a triple square bit as jt20 posted if your dealing with a bolt that needs one.

.

rrgrassi · #52 03-12-2010, 03:41 PM

Cool!! Yes I still have the piston. It's a great conversation piece. I'll check the 12 pt socket.

konstan · #53 03-12-2010, 03:50 PM

So, who sells those triple square bits for the head bolts? Does not look like HF has them

jt20 · #54 03-12-2010, 04:40 PM

the most accessible source is Advance Auto or Autozone. (or whoever sells the Performance Parts brand).

It comes in a set of four, and no one there will know what the heII you're talking about, so just keep looking.

The package says something else... I forget right now. I can you part numbers later if needed.

konstan · #55 03-12-2010, 04:47 PM

Hahahaha "no one will ever know what you are talking about". That's some funny stuff right there...

Ok here is my outline of next steps, then, please let me know if you have any corrections to this plan

1. remove the oil pump
2. open up the 1st bearing, inspect, plastigauge it (find who sells plastigauge)
3. remove the head

konstan · #56 03-12-2010, 04:48 PM

When removing the head, do I still need to be concerned with keeping the cam, the crank and the pump in time? How am I supposed to do that? can I just mark the chain and sprockets with, say, three different colors so it can only go one way?

MrGiggles · #57 03-12-2010, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by konstan

Hahahaha "no one will ever know what you are talking about". That's some funny stuff right there...

Ok here is my outline of next steps, then, please let me know if you have any corrections to this plan

1. remove the oil pump
2. open up the 1st bearing, inspect, plastigauge it (find who sells plastigauge)
3. remove the head

The snap-on truck has them for about 30.00. That's where I got mine.

I'm sure you've already figured you have to get the oil pan off to get to the final 3 rod caps. You can get to the first two off without taking the main oil pan off though.

When you go to remove the head, make sure you you get the couple allen-head bolts that are in the chain galley. I didn't see those and I was stumped on what was holding it in.

jt20 · #58 03-12-2010, 04:51 PM

sounds fine, I only have one recommendation:

Do not try pulling the crank out until the chain is completely free from the head... this includes the upper chain guide in the timing cavity.

inspecting the connecting rod bearings is more of a concern the the main crank bearings.

jt20 · #59 03-12-2010, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by konstan

When removing the head, do I still need to be concerned with keeping the cam, the crank and the pump in time? How am I supposed to do that? can I just mark the chain and sprockets with, say, three different colors so it can only go one way?

mark the chain to the camshaft sprocket

mark the chain the the sprocket on the crankshaft

(both of these items only go on one way)

if you decide later that you will be removing the injection pump... none of these marks will matter... kinda.

vstech · #60 03-12-2010, 06:32 PM

before you remove the chain, rotate the crank until both the timing chain mark and the crank marks line up.
that way you will be at TDC with the #1 at full compression stroke, and you'll be perfectly safe removing everything and not have issues with the IP.
tripple square, and 12point allen/torqx bits are not the same.
the set of 4 at autozoo is junk, so when you are done removing all the bolts, return it, and get a new warranty set before you try replacing the bolts.
clean out the bolts VERY WELL, you will strip out if you are not clean and careful