The SD lines are different due to the difference in the SDs oil filter housing. When I did my 617->107 swap I used the SD oil filter housing to gain clearance to the steering gear and needed to use the SD hoses. You could swap in the SD oil filter housing and use your SD hoses; but you couldn't go the other way i.e. use a 123 filter in an SD. You should also grab the turbo line if you decided to go that route as it's different too, but it can be "adjusted" to fit without too much difficulty.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Thanks! I am sure this comparison will be of great help to others too.

I happen to have both the W126 and W123 oil filter housings, and now I see another difference between them that sinks my project (I think)

That is that the W126 housing doesn't have the female thread at the side plate bolted to the housing for the oil pressure gauge line -- there is a vacuum dashpot instead.

That's not a vacuum dashpot, rather it's the sender for the electric oil pressure gauge.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

oops!

They suck--big time , Tristan.
I just had to remove the ac compressor--DS engine mount shock and motor mount--and jack up the engine to get more room.
Never could get all the compressor bolts back incorrectly and gave up,, the loose ones give the ole girl a rattly sound

Ahh rattly is normal on an old diesel - right?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Hi all, I am new to the site, been lurking forever and gotten quite a bit of useful information so I thought I'd repay my debt and chime in. I just did the rubber only replacement with 15mm id hydraulic hose from Belmetric and constant torque hose clamps I bought from the heavy duty truck dealer I work at. I think the best way is obviously OEM hoses only as others have stated aftermarket hoses leak. However, you take the risk of stripping the oil cooler unless you cut the rubber, remove the cooler and then you get a better grip on everything. Like also it was stated, there is a fix for that by tapping it. O, you can try just the rubber but as Diesel911 stated, use the right size and type hose (15mm, NOT 5/8") and heat/pressure rated. Belmetric again is the only source anyone has been able to find. They sell 1 meter of it for about 42.00 shipped. Plenty to do both lines. As Mach4 stated, sometimes it works, sometimes people smoke their engines and we all learn. Well, my 85 300d was bought 2 years ago for 1350.00 so I guess it is considered a beater. Time will tell...

Welcome to the forum Herr - hope you join in and don't go back to the lurking!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yea, welcome to the site...don't be a stranger.

Oil lines are one of those inevitable maintenance items for which there are a number of solutions, each with their own set of trade-offs. As you've already found, one of the benefits to a forum like this is collective information and the wisdom of the masses.

Thanks for your contribution....in post #1 no less.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

OK thanks for the welcomes. I will check back now and then and help when I can but I think I take more than I can give How do you post what cars are in your stable? I will add what I have.

By the way, look at these flares. I am not sure if it was this forum or another where someone had no barbs, just flared ends. As long as you have something like this, the hoses should not pop off assuming the proper size hose, a strong enough clamp that has been properly torqued, not too tight, not loose. The person who said they had no barbs thought they were from aftermarket hoses. I have no idea, but posting just as a reference to others.

When logged in go to this link:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/profile.php?do=editsignature

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Thank you!

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82 240d 4 speed manual. stripped parts car-PM me for requests
85 300d daily driver. Nice reliable beater always a work in progress unknown miles-odom works when it wants
95 E300d. daily driver or trip taker 220k
97 F250 4x4 7.3 turbo ext cab, 8'bed
78 Pontiac Bonneville-my 1st car bought new by parents, my high school graduation present in 1988-sits in garage. needs to come out of mothball

Just an update here on my oil cooler hoses for those who are interested, they are still fine, no leaks. Definately a cheaper easier way to go for those who have some fear of stripping out the cooler. However, off topic, a trans issue started up that I have started a new thread on. Hope for the best.

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82 240d 4 speed manual. stripped parts car-PM me for requests
85 300d daily driver. Nice reliable beater always a work in progress unknown miles-odom works when it wants
95 E300d. daily driver or trip taker 220k
97 F250 4x4 7.3 turbo ext cab, 8'bed
78 Pontiac Bonneville-my 1st car bought new by parents, my high school graduation present in 1988-sits in garage. needs to come out of mothball

I was thinking about doing this mod but instead of using the compression fitting, just use a piece of 15mm hose and (a few) clamps. Y'all think this would work okay? The hose wouldn't have pressure on it to make it slip off, and it is strong enough to hold the pressure, as evidenced by its use in the assembly. I can't think of a downside to this other than it might still leak lol.

Jim