Again look at the photograph attached to post # 42

To put the new bushing in:-

Make sure the inside of the trailing arm bushing hole is clean / rust free.

Make sure you put the bushing in the correct way round - see photo.

Lubricate the outer surface of your new bushing with a WATER based lubricant such as KY Jelly... I understand in America you guys can get a product call slyglide. This is widely appreciated here on this forum. I can't get it here so I used KY. The point is that you shouldn't use an oil based lubricant because it can knacker your rubber. It is best not to use silicone sprays as they are usually oil based.

Thread your threaded bar through your new bushing, the trailing arm, and something that can react against the trailing arm. Again I recommend wood. Wood is really good especially if you are heavy handed. Wood will generally crack and grown before you are likely to do any serious damage to a metal structure.

Again use two nuts to tighten this configuration until the bushing goes in.

WATCH OUT though that you don't over do it as the metal sleeve in the centre of the bushing will want to go with the tension in the threaded bar (as you're most likely to be winding up against it) and the outer surface of the rubber bushing will tend to oppose this movement. So sort of shear the new bushing into place. This is OK but not if you actually manage to permanently distort it - hence the recommendation of wood again so you don't over do it by accident.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!