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#1
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Quote:
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#2
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R4 no sump is BS- see video
I further disassembled the R4 with the broken collar. As can be seen in the video, there is plenty of space at the low point for a sump and oil to collect. The half moon part that I am turning the compressor by is an oil slinger!
Anyone know how to further disassemble it so I can get the pistons out? Do I need a special puller? Click to play video! ![]()
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked Last edited by funola; 07-08-2010 at 03:01 PM. |
#3
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Funola,
Do you know whether the compressor you are dissassembling is a mercedes specific R4. Check out the upside down email I posted where the R4 for GM is mounted correctly and the r4 for mercedes is bottom mounted. check that oil slinger (I'm assuming it spins so the lateral orientation wouldn't matter) There should be a path for oil to travel into the moving parts that is orientation specific. Let us know. Kent
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![]() 77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had) ![]() 83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg 95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg 95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head ![]() 99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg |
#4
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Quote:
Is the video playing? I can't seem to play it on this computer (not mine).
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#5
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Quote:
I'm shoveling dirt for Homes for Our Troops (shameless plug) this weekend. Doesn't anyone own ball peens anymore? |
#6
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To get to the clutch bearing, the 6 bolts with staked washers on the perimeter must be removed. This is pic of the 2nd R4 clutch disassembled. The 2nd R4 has 11 mm bolts, but the 1st R4 has 8 mm bolts. Why the difference?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#7
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Supported on wood blocks, hammer and large socket to drive the bearing out. I bought the Autozone bearing at $25. The packaging said it is made in Japan so hopefully it's a good bearing.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#8
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Chuckling ? If you are having fun that is all that counts...
MB engineers must have made a lot of their money on selling special tools to their own Dealers... but on AC compressors the fact is that for them to last a long time the tolerances have to be close...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#9
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Here's the old bearing next to the new (green one). The first bearing from Autozone I looked at, box says made in Japan. Bearing was not in a sealed package so I went back and exchanged it for a sealed one but box says made in China, Looked at the other 2, box says made in USA. None of the bearings had any Mfg name or country of origin on the bearing itself except the green one which says Santech (the others were black with just some numbers). My guess is they are all made in China. I have not installed the new bearing and will return it. What I did was install the good coil in the clutch housing with a good bearing and now have a complete compressor that does not make noise when spun. I figure that with a compressor that is an unknown and untested, that I should not put money into it. I will put a pressure gauge on the compressor, mist some oil in it and spin it on the bench. Depending on what kind of pressure output I get, I will decide if I will install it.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#10
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Yes , it is playing.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#11
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I called uo Compressor Works (mfg of R4's) and asked about the sump. They insist it is sumpless. They said, for proper lubrication, there must be proper amount of refrigerant/oil mix and PROPER FLOW. I said there is a cavity in the bottom of the R4 that can hold oil and he says there may be 1/2 to 1 oz of oil in there. Anyway I am just going by what I see and I am sure Compressor Works is right. Maybe that 1/2 moon thing is a counter weight., but, if there is oil which touches the half moon, it will work as an oil slinger.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#12
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I have been preaching that because the R4 does not have a sump... that that makes the oil miscibility factor of a refrigerant which is used in them much more important than a refrigerant used in axial and other sump type compressors...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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Ball Peens....
That was actually what I thought the reference to wrong hammer was directed to... I do not think a nail claw hammer is made for ( the hardening process on the face ) anything except nails.... which are relatively soft ... If you are striking a metal which is hardened itself other types of hammers.... are typically used.... for safety.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#14
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Quote:
![]() Thanks for the pictures and write up.
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Jim |
#15
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Everyone needs to take their digital cameras out to their cars and take a picture of the top side of their AC compressor...
We need to see if this is standard.... Wish we could check some compressors which have failed to see if this was the problem.. of course ' failing' in this case would probably mean the front bearing and seal... this being in the wrong position should not cause the compressor to self destruct in other manners... as would improper matching of oil and refrigerant...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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