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#1
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Is there a way to be sure my timing chain didnt skip a tooth
Ok so most of you know I am putting the motor back together.
I think the timing chain is in the right position (I kept a zip tie around it and the camshaft sprocket and I had it marked with paint to the crank sprocket. What I am not 100% sure about is that it didn't skip a tooth or two on the timing device. I mean, I am reasonably sure that it didn't... but is there a way to verify?
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'82 300D (project) '46 Willys (project) "Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20 "Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20 "Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve "no" -kerry "At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40 |
#2
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Yes.
Rotate the Enigine in the direction of normal rotation; line up the Camshaft Gear Timing Mark on the rear of the Gear exactly with the one on the front Chamshaft Bearing. Look down at the degree marks on the Crankshaft Damper. It sould be on or extremely close to Zero which is Top Dead Center.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#3
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it can not slip on the TD unless you removed the vacuum pump and the pressed in pins around the circumference of the device.
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#4
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well I did remove the vacuum pump, and at one point I did have the TD out...
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'82 300D (project) '46 Willys (project) "Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20 "Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20 "Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve "no" -kerry "At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40 |
#5
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Quote:
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'82 300D (project) '46 Willys (project) "Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20 "Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20 "Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve "no" -kerry "At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40 |
#6
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Quote:
that will only tell you if the cam is in phase with the crank... not the injection timing. |
#7
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Raaight... the cam I am 100% sure is in phase...
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'82 300D (project) '46 Willys (project) "Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20 "Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20 "Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve "no" -kerry "At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40 |
#8
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sooooo...
it sounds like you will have to time your pump if you have any doubts about your installation. |
#9
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only way to know if the pump gear skipped a tooth is to be sure you did not remove the pin and take out the gear. the chain cannot rise above a tooth in it's place.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#10
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I am going to barrow a quote from vstech since it applies to me also.
"take my posts with a grain of salt... I skip over reading sometimes..." Somewhere In our DIY section there is IP timing and what to do if you removed the IP to retime it. DIY Repair Links http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/ http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
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Quote:
me three. |
#12
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NEVER take my posts with a grain of salt. simply pretend that my posts constitute the thoughts/opinions/views of Chuck Norris.
NEVER take Chuck Norris with a grain of salt, or Chuck Norris will take you out with a roundhouse kick
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i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#13
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The best way of checking you have got TDC on number 1 cylinder is to measure it with a DTI. When the head is in place you can do this by removing the front rocker arm set (on a OM617) and removing the valve spring, nuts, and washers so that the first valve rests on the top of the piston. You can then mount a DTI and turn the crankshaft until the dial stops moving - that's TDC.
Warning:- make sure the piston is very close to the top of the cylinder otherwise the valve could drop in - then you need to take the head off again.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
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Looks like will be easy enough with the engine still on the stand.
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'82 300D (project) '46 Willys (project) "Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20 "Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20 "Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve "no" -kerry "At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40 |
#15
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Ok so I did this. The only difference with the engine off the stand is that I have to plug the cigar (return) hose and the injector return hose so the pressure does not escape from them.
Using the drip method, the beginning of delivery (1 sec drop) is definitely between 20 and 21 BTDC... The FSM says should be 23-25. Now, the question is, if the chain skipped one tooth on the timing device, what would the discrepancy be???
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'82 300D (project) '46 Willys (project) "Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20 "Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20 "Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve "no" -kerry "At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40 |
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