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  #46  
Old 09-17-2010, 11:57 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
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I've got a New Pump...(In the Box)

BUT,I swear this would make me rest easier 75K from now:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/mes-dea-gast-vacuum-pump-which-37410.html

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  #47  
Old 09-17-2010, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
I was saying it does not have to be continuous duty only. I did not say the central lock vac pump is the correct pump to use. It is not!
Gotcha. What kind of pump do bigger trucks use for air brakes?

Sixto
87 300D
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  #48  
Old 09-17-2010, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Possibly but a big advantage of Diesels is they keep going after the battery and alternator give up. With an electric pump they'll really keep going

Sixto
87 300D
Just have to have strong legs.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #49  
Old 09-17-2010, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Gotcha. What kind of pump do bigger trucks use for air brakes?

Sixto
87 300D
An electric vac pump with a reservoir!
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #50  
Old 09-18-2010, 12:01 AM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
An electric vac pump with a reservoir!
You might want to take a look at the alternator capacity before going to far down that path.
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  #51  
Old 09-18-2010, 05:30 AM
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I thought big truck air brakes used air pressure, not vacuum. They will produce 150+ psi, but I suppose if you could tap into the suction side of the compressor and add a check valve to a reservoir, it would hold vacuum. It would make an awful hissing noise all the time, though
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"Spark plugs?...We don't need no stinking spark plugs!"
1985 300SD "Der Silberne Schlitten" 420,000 mi


Wish these were diesel:
2003 Ford Club Wagon 130,000 mi
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  #52  
Old 09-18-2010, 07:36 AM
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I considered making a catch-plate from a very-thin bit of sheet-metal. Basically, a perforated-ring, just like the paper pump-gasket. But with a raised section at the bottom, and maybe up the sides, to form a catch-cavity between the 'bell' of the vacuum-pump and the engine-block. It would just clear the cam-disc, and might be enough to catch some of the loose ball-bearings, though probably not lever-fragments. But it could also interfere with the oil-spray off the chain that lubes the pump.

I was a bit concerned about cam-wear, but there's not much I can do about right it now. The sheet that came with the new pump said that even 'minimal wear' would destroy the new pump. But what's minimal wear? It also said the cam-disc was NLA for some engines, without replacing the whole timer-unit!
I did see some visible rubbing/wear marks, but no gouging or any groove or ridge in the cam surface that I could catch with my fingernail.
Later, I thought about getting a cam-disc off the rough 240D I got the used pump from, or the clean '83 SD that was also there (Someone had already beat me to the pump from that one). But when I went back, both cars had been hauled away.

If I decide to try and retrofit something, I'm leaning towards a belt-drive pump. Perhaps I can rig a pump-mount on the block-off plate, as someone suggested. Then install a double waterpump pulley from a turbo 300D, and use the extra slot to drive the pump. (Of course that pulley may not help those that already have turbo models)
Another possibility is to position the vacuum-pump/pulley so it drives off the power-steering belt that already passes right-by the OE vacuum-pump.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #53  
Old 09-18-2010, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
I have a spare vacuum pump from a RV that looks just like the Gast. I'll check and see what the p/n on mine is. It works as either a vacuum or pressure pump and is continuous duty. It does not draw that much current as I recall. It isn't that loud either. An added benefit is you always have compressed air to fill your tires and other uses.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Last edited by funola; 09-18-2010 at 08:52 AM.
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  #54  
Old 09-18-2010, 08:45 AM
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Make it out of ferrous steel and add a bunch of super strong magnets to it! If it can be designed to not interfere with lubrication it may save the engine when the pump decides to blow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
I considered making a catch-plate from a very-thin bit of sheet-metal. Basically, a perforated-ring, just like the paper pump-gasket. But with a raised section at the bottom, and maybe up the sides, to form a catch-cavity between the 'bell' of the vacuum-pump and the engine-block. It would just clear the cam-disc, and might be enough to catch some of the loose ball-bearings, though probably not lever-fragments. But it could also interfere with the oil-spray off the chain that lubes the pump.

I was a bit concerned about cam-wear, but there's not much I can do about right it now. The sheet that came with the new pump said that even 'minimal wear' would destroy the new pump. But what's minimal wear? It also said the cam-disc was NLA for some engines, without replacing the whole timer-unit!
I did see some visible rubbing/wear marks, but no gouging or any groove or ridge in the cam surface that I could catch with my fingernail.
Later, I thought about getting a cam-disc off the rough 240D I got the used pump from, or the clean '83 SD that was also there (Someone had already beat me to the pump from that one). But when I went back, both cars had been hauled away.

If I decide to try and retrofit something, I'm leaning towards a belt-drive pump. Perhaps I can rig a pump-mount on the block-off plate, as someone suggested. Then install a double waterpump pulley from a turbo 300D, and use the extra slot to drive the pump. (Of course that pulley may not help those that already have turbo models)
Another possibility is to position the vacuum-pump/pulley so it drives off the power-steering belt that already passes right-by the OE vacuum-pump.

Happy Motoring, Mark
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #55  
Old 09-18-2010, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach0415 View Post
I thought big truck air brakes used air pressure, not vacuum. They will produce 150+ psi, but I suppose if you could tap into the suction side of the compressor and add a check valve to a reservoir, it would hold vacuum. It would make an awful hissing noise all the time, though
I think your're right! I must have been confused.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #56  
Old 09-18-2010, 01:26 PM
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Here's the driven end of a later 606 vacuum pump. No reciprocating parts in view.



I don't know if a 606 timer will slide onto a 603 (or 617) pump.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #57  
Old 09-18-2010, 01:34 PM
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Sixto, is it easy to tell from the outside whether my pump is the newer design?
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  #58  
Old 09-18-2010, 01:48 PM
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All the vane style pumps I've seen have a cast front cover vs the stamped brass cover in 603 pumps. The change occurred sometime in the 96-97 E300 range. 95 E300s have a reciprocating pump, 98-99 E300s have a rotary pump.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #59  
Old 09-18-2010, 02:55 PM
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I thought that was a brass-colored steel cover, but my '96 has it.

Seems pretty extreme to change the timing device in order to run the updated pump. But what if the cam surface is bad? Seems like it's new timing device time anyway.
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  #60  
Old 09-18-2010, 03:07 PM
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I don't know brass from wood The gold colored cover

I don't know if the vane style timer is even a bolt-on replacement. It might use a different spline.

Sixto
87 300D

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