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View Poll Results: Is it worthwhile making an OM617 non turbo rebuild thread? | |||
No! Not another bloody engine rebuild thread |
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1 | 3.33% |
I couldn't care less |
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0 | 0% |
Oh go on then if it makes you happy |
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9 | 30.00% |
Yes please I've got a non turbo OM617 |
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19 | 63.33% |
What is the point of this poll - do whatever you want |
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1 | 3.33% |
Voters: 30. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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Would an OM617 non turbo rebuild thread be worthwhile?
G'day Folks,
I've recently been rebuilding the engine on my 1981 W123 300D - that's an OM617 non turbo engine. As I'm in the habit of taking lots of photographs as I work I've got quite a few that could be made into a thread if it was felt to be worthwhile... If the general consensus is that people would like to see this - I'll make the effort - otherwise I won't bother!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#2
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I think its a great idea!
The N/A shares many assebly steps that are identical I would think to the Turbo motor, differs mainly in the Oil-Pump area--For Assembly Purposes anyway.... ![]()
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. ![]() W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks ![]() ![]() |
#3
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Quote:
Oh by the way if anyone isn't happy with the choices in the poll - please feel free to ***** about it as much as you like - but remember I can't do anything about it now!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#4
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I voted yes but I don't have the non-turbo....just like seeing lots of pictures of projects.
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#5
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I think it will be interesting. Honestly, I will never take the time/effort to rebuild one myself; but I would like to see the process.
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#6
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Id be interested in seeing it even though i dont have any NA engines...
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#7
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Army,
Having followed your progress with your rebuild, you would be doing the site a service to write up such a thread. Your perfectionist approach to the rebuild would put many experienced re-builders to shame. Bringing your many threads together into 1 will be quite a task !!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#8
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The importance in my opinion is the financial lower cost to properly rebuild the N/A engines versus the turbo varients. Post costs as you go along if practical and you have not already.
Aftermarket german pistons standard and oversize at reasonable prices in comparison to the turbo pistons account for a lot of this in my opinion. |
#9
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If your just posting up pictures. Then it's just another pictorial.
But if your going to go through the process i.e. explaining the measurements, how parts are fitted. Then that would be different then the other threads.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System ![]() |
#10
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In particular I'd like to see an approach to measuring cylinder wear that's more technical/accurate
than "the cylinder isn't scored and looks round". The tolerances would imply the use of a custom bore gage to "get it right". And measuring taper in a deep hole ain't the easiest thing to do. So, take lots of pictures, and explain your method! Cylinder fitment is key to good power, especially on a N/A diesel. --frankb
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--frankb 1982 300TD 617.912 <NLA> . 1975 2002 E10-EFI . 1976 914c6 . 1983 MG LMIII <NLA>. 1988 Montero / 616<NLA> . 2001 TLS . 2005 Saab 9-5 Wagon |
#11
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Quote:
My personal feelings on the matter of bore measurement is that it's best left to a machine shop. Why? Well, for one thing, the telescoping bore gauges are prohibitively expensive. Second, it actually takes some practise and skill before one can get repeatable measurements with such gauges. I've tried it with borrowed bore gauges, and still can't do it right. Taking the measurement is almost an art, and if you are inexperienced, it's worth paying the machine shop to check out. Besides, if it all checks out, you can then pay them $10 a hole to hone the bores, and you'll still be money ahead versus buying a hone and trying to do it yourself.
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- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread |
#12
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Quote:
FWIW, the 617 isn't a deep bore. When I rebuilt my Ford 300-6 (the third or fourth one I've done) I did four measurements per bore- Two 90 degrees apart at the top just below the ridge, and another two 90 degrees apart at the bottom of the wear area. Due to wear, I had to bore it to 4.080" and use .030" oversize pistons for a Ford 360, bumping my compression to 9.8:1, but that's a whole other story. That was a 3.98" stroke vs the 3.5" stroke of the 617, with a taller deck height as well. It was a little easier due to the larger bore, but I've measured out Subaru engines with an 82mm bore vs the 90mm bore of the 617. |
#13
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Quote:
Your survey doesn't include a spot for "YES, even tho I don't own one" so I didn't vote. I feel disenfranchised. ![]()
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#14
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layback40 - you make me blush.
barry123400 - If it goes ahead I'd add in the prices strelink - I'm so sorry (perhaps you could pretend that you have one?) DeliveryValve - I'd do my best! I'm only asking this question as I got the impression that most people on the forum have the OM617a (turbo) and therefore a non turbo wouldn't be of interest
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#15
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I have an NA OM617 that I am replacing with a turbo version, and I can still see the potential value in a rebuild thread for the NA engine. (Besides, I sort of figured I would just crate it up and stash it away, just in case I ever need it for something.) If you can combine good photos with good descriptions and technical data, then I say you should go for it.
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- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread |
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