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View Poll Results: Is it worthwhile making an OM617 non turbo rebuild thread?
No! Not another bloody engine rebuild thread 1 3.33%
I couldn't care less 0 0%
Oh go on then if it makes you happy 9 30.00%
Yes please I've got a non turbo OM617 19 63.33%
What is the point of this poll - do whatever you want 1 3.33%
Voters: 30. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 12-02-2010, 07:41 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Would an OM617 non turbo rebuild thread be worthwhile?

G'day Folks,

I've recently been rebuilding the engine on my 1981 W123 300D - that's an OM617 non turbo engine. As I'm in the habit of taking lots of photographs as I work I've got quite a few that could be made into a thread if it was felt to be worthwhile...

If the general consensus is that people would like to see this - I'll make the effort - otherwise I won't bother!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #2  
Old 12-02-2010, 07:43 AM
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I think its a great idea!

The N/A shares many assebly steps that are identical I would think to the Turbo motor, differs mainly in the Oil-Pump area--For Assembly Purposes anyway....
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W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

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  #3  
Old 12-02-2010, 07:45 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post
I think its a great idea!

The N/A shares many assebly steps that are identical I would think to the Turbo motor, differs mainly in the Oil-Pump area--For Assembly Purposes anyway....
Wow you're quick Alastair - I've turned it into a poll - partly because I've been itching to do this for ever!

Oh by the way if anyone isn't happy with the choices in the poll - please feel free to ***** about it as much as you like - but remember I can't do anything about it now!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2010, 07:53 AM
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I voted yes but I don't have the non-turbo....just like seeing lots of pictures of projects.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2010, 07:55 AM
Craig
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I think it will be interesting. Honestly, I will never take the time/effort to rebuild one myself; but I would like to see the process.
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2010, 09:27 AM
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Id be interested in seeing it even though i dont have any NA engines...
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2010, 09:28 AM
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Army,
Having followed your progress with your rebuild, you would be doing the site a service to write up such a thread.
Your perfectionist approach to the rebuild would put many experienced re-builders to shame.
Bringing your many threads together into 1 will be quite a task !!
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1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
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1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2010, 09:42 AM
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The importance in my opinion is the financial lower cost to properly rebuild the N/A engines versus the turbo varients. Post costs as you go along if practical and you have not already.

Aftermarket german pistons standard and oversize at reasonable prices in comparison to the turbo pistons account for a lot of this in my opinion.
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  #9  
Old 12-02-2010, 10:01 AM
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If your just posting up pictures. Then it's just another pictorial.

But if your going to go through the process i.e. explaining the measurements, how parts are fitted. Then that would be different then the other threads.
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  #10  
Old 12-03-2010, 05:38 PM
ISO Certified Hard Head
 
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In particular I'd like to see an approach to measuring cylinder wear that's more technical/accurate
than "the cylinder isn't scored and looks round".

The tolerances would imply the use of a custom bore gage to "get it right". And
measuring taper in a deep hole ain't the easiest thing to do.

So, take lots of pictures, and explain your method! Cylinder fitment is key to good
power, especially on a N/A diesel.

--frankb

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
If your just posting up pictures. Then it's just another pictorial.

But if your going to go through the process i.e. explaining the measurements, how parts are fitted. Then that would be different then the other threads.
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  #11  
Old 12-03-2010, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franklynb View Post
In particular I'd like to see an approach to measuring cylinder wear that's more technical/accurate
than "the cylinder isn't scored and looks round".

The tolerances would imply the use of a custom bore gage to "get it right". And
measuring taper in a deep hole ain't the easiest thing to do.

So, take lots of pictures, and explain your method! Cylinder fitment is key to good
power, especially on a N/A diesel.

--frankb
Telescoping bore gauge.

My personal feelings on the matter of bore measurement is that it's best left to a machine shop. Why? Well, for one thing, the telescoping bore gauges are prohibitively expensive. Second, it actually takes some practise and skill before one can get repeatable measurements with such gauges. I've tried it with borrowed bore gauges, and still can't do it right. Taking the measurement is almost an art, and if you are inexperienced, it's worth paying the machine shop to check out. Besides, if it all checks out, you can then pay them $10 a hole to hone the bores, and you'll still be money ahead versus buying a hone and trying to do it yourself.
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'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
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  #12  
Old 12-03-2010, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franklynb View Post
In particular I'd like to see an approach to measuring cylinder wear that's more technical/accurate
than "the cylinder isn't scored and looks round".

The tolerances would imply the use of a custom bore gage to "get it right". And
measuring taper in a deep hole ain't the easiest thing to do.

So, take lots of pictures, and explain your method! Cylinder fitment is key to good
power, especially on a N/A diesel.

--frankb
As mentioned, telescoping bore gauges, AKA T gauge or snap gauge. Set it, pull it out and measure with a micrometer or a good set of calipers.
FWIW, the 617 isn't a deep bore. When I rebuilt my Ford 300-6 (the third or fourth one I've done) I did four measurements per bore- Two 90 degrees apart at the top just below the ridge, and another two 90 degrees apart at the bottom of the wear area. Due to wear, I had to bore it to 4.080" and use .030" oversize pistons for a Ford 360, bumping my compression to 9.8:1, but that's a whole other story. That was a 3.98" stroke vs the 3.5" stroke of the 617, with a taller deck height as well. It was a little easier due to the larger bore, but I've measured out Subaru engines with an 82mm bore vs the 90mm bore of the 617.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2010, 09:49 AM
Fold on dotted line
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SE Mich
Posts: 3,285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
G'day Folks,

I've recently been rebuilding the engine on my 1981 W123 300D - that's an OM617 non turbo engine. As I'm in the habit of taking lots of photographs as I work I've got quite a few that could be made into a thread if it was felt to be worthwhile...

If the general consensus is that people would like to see this - I'll make the effort - otherwise I won't bother!
I think it will be very helpfuyl and add to the value of the document base.

Your survey doesn't include a spot for "YES, even tho I don't own one" so I didn't vote.

I feel disenfranchised.
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1950 170SD
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  #14  
Old 12-02-2010, 10:05 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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layback40 - you make me blush.

barry123400 - If it goes ahead I'd add in the prices

strelink - I'm so sorry (perhaps you could pretend that you have one?)

DeliveryValve - I'd do my best!

I'm only asking this question as I got the impression that most people on the forum have the OM617a (turbo) and therefore a non turbo wouldn't be of interest
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12-02-2010, 10:19 AM
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Mmm! Diesel!
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Snohomish, WA
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I have an NA OM617 that I am replacing with a turbo version, and I can still see the potential value in a rebuild thread for the NA engine. (Besides, I sort of figured I would just crate it up and stash it away, just in case I ever need it for something.) If you can combine good photos with good descriptions and technical data, then I say you should go for it.
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- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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