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  #46  
Old 09-08-2014, 07:06 PM
greazzer's Avatar
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Take a look at post #2. There are only 2 fastners which hold the lift pump to the IP.

Take a look at post #14. There are 3 fastners which hold the lift pump to the IP.

That is what I mean by "dogears". Those flanges. The NA Euro Non-Turbo lift pump only has 2 fastners. The turbo has 3. The turbo 3 bolt holes (dogears) are in a triangular pattern.

The pump that I have is the same exact pump you have for rebuilding which was the topic of this thread. That is, the Euro 300D NA pump. That pump only has 2 fastners which hold the lift pump to the IP. I was not referring or referencing the three holes which are on the "top" on the lift pump.

I am not sure how to word it any different way. In any event. I am looking for the refresh kit for the 300D NA Euro pump.

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  #47  
Old 09-09-2014, 03:15 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
Take a look at post #2. There are only 2 fastners which hold the lift pump to the IP.

Take a look at post #14. There are 3 fastners which hold the lift pump to the IP.

That is what I mean by "dogears". Those flanges. The NA Euro Non-Turbo lift pump only has 2 fastners. The turbo has 3. The turbo 3 bolt holes (dogears) are in a triangular pattern.

The pump that I have is the same exact pump you have for rebuilding which was the topic of this thread. That is, the Euro 300D NA pump. That pump only has 2 fastners which hold the lift pump to the IP. I was not referring or referencing the three holes which are on the "top" on the lift pump.

I am not sure how to word it any different way. In any event. I am looking for the refresh kit for the 300D NA Euro pump.
Right got ya! I'll ask the dealer for the number for the refurbish kit for my NA lift pump.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #48  
Old 09-09-2014, 01:12 PM
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I haven't asked them yet but I thought the 240D lift pump would probably be good too - so have a look at this =>

INJECTION PUMP. Fits: 1981 Mercedes 240 D Sedan | Mercedes-Benz of South Atlanta

Part 428
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #49  
Old 09-27-2014, 09:26 AM
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How much resistance should the check valves make when you try to open them manually ?? They are very easy to operate on my lift pump but they seem to close all the way. Is that good ?
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  #50  
Old 09-27-2014, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petar617 View Post
How much resistance should the check valves make when you try to open them manually ?? They are very easy to operate on my lift pump but they seem to close all the way. Is that good ?
The Valves that are in the Fuel Supply/Lift Pumps have a minimal resistance to them. the main resistance is moving the Fuel as the Fuel has weight and viscosity.

Vacuum is the absence of or lower pressure. The Fuel Supply Lift Pump creates a lower than Atmospheric Pressure (by way of the Hand Primer or the Piston and Spring inside of the Pump) on the Suction side of the Pump and it is actually the Atmospheric/Air Pressure pushing down on the Fuel that brings it into the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.

The weight and viscosity of the Fuel causes resistance to flow and movement.

After that it is the Hand Primer or the Piston or a combination of the Piston and Spring inside of the Fuel Supply/Lift pump pushing the Fuel out of the Pump and the pressure of that Fuel is regulated by the Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve in the Fuel Injection Pump. On My year and Model the Pressure range is supposed to be a low of 8 psi and a high of about 18 psi.

So the resistance of the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump Valves is overwhelmed by the other forces created by the Pump.
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  #51  
Old 12-14-2014, 02:00 PM
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Link to MW lift pump rebuild thread

Lift Pump Rebuild...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #52  
Old 12-22-2014, 11:07 AM
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Bosch lift pump kits

For the lift pumps with disc valves:

DGK 306: 2 valves in the bag althought the paper gasket (lift pump to injection pump) is for the 3 hole version.
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W115 1975 300D "Geraldine"
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  #53  
Old 04-13-2015, 02:54 PM
Precision Somethingist.
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 278
Zounds!

Again I must say Zounds!

That there pump in Post #14 is identical to the one I removed from my 240D!!! I thought these were TURBO?!?
Consider my timbers completely shivered!!! I solvent cleaned, used a rebuild kit, and it pumps like crazy with the new primer pump and seals. But it would still be re-assuring to have a few pics of the assembly procedure.
I'll be putting it back on the car tonight.

snapped_bolt
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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....
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  #54  
Old 04-13-2015, 10:20 PM
Precision Somethingist.
 
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Location: NW Washington
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Sealing compound?

OK I'm back!

There is an old looking off-white sealing compound on the injection pump. What is it? I would imagine that it must be removed with a solvent, since the IP is a die casting. Scraping not a good idea.

Any input?


Thanks!

snapped_bolt
__________________
'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....
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  #55  
Old 04-14-2015, 01:28 PM
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...like a shield of steel
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snapped_bolt View Post
OK I'm back!

There is an old looking off-white sealing compound on the injection pump. What is it? I would imagine that it must be removed with a solvent, since the IP is a die casting. Scraping not a good idea.

Any input?


Thanks!

snapped_bolt
Yes be careful if you do need to remove non standard sealant

(As for your previous question I can only do the "helpful Haynes" reply and say assembly is reverse of dismantling)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #56  
Old 04-14-2015, 03:32 PM
Precision Somethingist.
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 278
Thanks Stretch

I'll go after the sealant with a solvent rag. I usually use a rounded end razor blade to avoid marring the sealing surface, but the sealing surface is so narrow it is tough to keep it in a plane parallel to the surface.
I took this off (3) years ago, but it will go back on quicker than it came off.
This particular lift pump is off my 240D 1981- and it looks just like an OM617 turbo-type. It worked. Now that it has been refreshed it should do a better job, probably part of the starting problem I had. I like engines to start without hitting the accelerator, but this on needed the occasional shot of fuel-and the leaking primer pump (original, no doubt) had a perpetual lake of fuel on top. When it came time to restart after rebuilding the injectors, there wasn't enough pumping ability left to get the engine started.
I'm only missing the top nut to do the installation. Somewhere I need to find a cad-plated nut to finish the job.

Cheers,

snapped_bolt

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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....
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