Originally Posted by layback40

... They need to be set cold mid winter.

Originally Posted by Army

Interesting: camshaft configuration - really? Have you got a reference for that? (Please don't think I'm being rude - I just don't see how that would make a difference)

{Rotators == rotor washers}

Originally Posted by charmalu

I have this 84 300TD that was brought to me, to do my magical, mystic massaging to it to bring it back from the dead. (almost) I am really surprised it made it from it`s home base to our front yard, some 40 + miles.

I am told they know that Diesels are not really fast, but this one really has no fast get up and go, no acceleration, even though it is a Turbo. I ask simple questions, like when were the valves adjusted, oil changes, any sort of records, how long have you owned it, have you been using Vegetable oil etc....??? I was told it was run on WVO Blend for a period of time, but is on diesel now. and as far as any records, or maintenance

we open the hood and there is this grease ball of an engine in there. we start her up, and I thought the engine was going to jump out from under the hood. It was rocking back and forth, harder to the right, and sounded like it was barely able to run.
From out the tail pipe I could hear a put put put, not the usual 617 sound.
I am surprised there are no dents in the hood from all the rocking.

They leave, and my wife and I take it for a run.
It`s 3 miles down hill to Soquel (so-kill) and the go light turns red.
The whole car is rocking back and fourth, just amazing it still ran.
Go up the ramp on the freeway and is doggy until I really put my foot into it, but don`t feel the kick down.
Go as far as the next off ramp and head for home.
Well we make it home .
This thing is bad, and going back up the 3 miles to home I had to really bury my foot in the Injection pump.

Next morning I adjust the valves.
Now on our cars when I do an adjustment, a little turn on the nuts and we are back into spec, if they are out.

I couldn't`t get any feeler gauge of any size to fit, I don`t think one is made that thin.
I backed off the lock nuts several turns, and I bet about all the cap nuts except for one, I turned MORE than 360 deg + to get the feeler in.
I kept turning & turning & turning, was beginning to think I was doing something wrong.
3 rd from the end, had to jam in a pry bar to keep the valve from turning (no 3 rd wrench) and the usually most difficult last one was the easiest and closest to spec.
I left them a little on the loose side.

So, how many of you out there in MB land has had an engine with the most tight valves and still lived?


I swapped out the Injectors with a used set I have, blew out the plugged up IM banjo bolt and line.
Today got it all buttoned back up and finally started.
WOW, what a beautiful smooth sound a 617 engine has when things are adjusted and cleaned.
This thing is so smooth, not a hint of the shakes.
Took her for a run, and still lacking any boost or real acceleration. HMMMM

Someone had messed with the ALDA, so replaced it with a virgin one I pulled at PNP. NOTE: the old one had a rattle when I shook it, so probably some strong arm cranked down on it.
Another thing I need to check is the Waste Gate hose, and maybe bypass the Switch-over valve.
I did blow out the boost line to the SOV, but not to the ALDA.
I did notice it`s Banjo bolt pretty Sooted up, so in the morning will do it.
I changed the engine oil and filter, the oil has a strange smell to it. Fuel dilution? maybe something from the WVO use?
I have no idea how long it has been since the last oil change.

Have a filter and ATF for a trans change, no record of it being serviced.

overall a nice car, but not worth the $4000 + they think it is worth, plus a long list of other fix it items I made a list of.
IMO big issue are the broken down drivers seat, like sitting on the floor, seat Bolster tore up, and drivers door check door post mount broken, etc... .

Charlie

Originally Posted by charmalu

Thank You Roy For the info. The girl wants to pick up her car today, so don`t know if i will ever see it again, she lives 40+ miles south of me. she has no clue about cars.

I jacked it up last night and drained the Torque Converter and pan. sure was some brown fluid coming out, and had a strange smell to it. then today I`ll replace the filter and gasket. hope this helps to what is causing the doggy get up and go. but can`t hurt.

The engine oil also had a strange smell to it. never noticed it on any I have changed before. I did have a thought it could be the feed pump maybe leaking into the engine oil. I remember reading about a repair kit a few weeks back. I`ll look that up and reread about it.

I replaced the ALDA with a Virgin one, someone had messed with the original one. when I took it off it had a rattle inside of it.
I took the car down where I use to work and steam cleaned it some. got about 60% of the stuff off. mainly wanted to get the crap off the trans pan.

it is still doggy on get up and go, and can`t believe the black smoke it blows out the back from a start. and the looks I get . I am in the Hippie, Yuppie, tree hugger capitol of the world.

when I steam cleaned the engine last night. I removed the air cleaner housing. plugged off the oil drain hole, valve cover blow by pipe, and turbo inlet. the lid off a rattle paint can fits perfect on the inlet. after cleaning the eng, I blew off the excess water with an air hose. then went to start the engine. nothing, just turned over . now what did I do to it, or blew off? I forgot to remove the paint can lid.

when i got back home I gave it a quick bath and tried to scrub off the caked on brake dust from the wheels.I`ll throw on some tire dressing, and she will think it is a new car.
Charlie

Originally Posted by layback40

Army,
Valve rotators are very common on industrial application motors. They have a type of ratchet device that turns the valve a small amount each time it is opened. he device is part of the piece between the end of the valve stem & the follower in most motors.

Originally Posted by Army

So with the rotation of the valves (due to either the rotators or an off centre lifter / cam configuration) a particular direction of movement is encouraged right?

If this direction of motion opposes the tightening of the lock nuts on a valve stem the clearance would tend to become looser with use right? And if the direction of valve rotation goes with the direction of tightening the lock nuts then the valve clearance would become tighter with use - right?

Does this sound possible or feasible?

I once heard a story of someone revving his motorcycle engine so hard that the valves got so tight the cylinders wouldn't hold any compression - myth, legend, BS - I don't know...

Originally Posted by layback40

...

Then again you could blame it all on Coriolis forces & then it would depend if you were north or south of the equator!!

Originally Posted by Army

So with the rotation of the valves (due to either the rotators or an off centre lifter / cam configuration) a particular direction of movement is encouraged right?
If this direction of motion opposes the tightening of the lock nuts on a valve stem the clearance would tend to become looser with use right?

Originally Posted by leathermang

Can't go with that because the lock nut and the top nut are in opposition to each other... and good threads on the top of the valve and inside those two nuts.. if they are tightened correctly will offset each other much more than the tiny input of force from the rotators .....the FSM suggests if you are having problems with keeping the valve clearance what it is set at.. put new nuts on the valve... but be sure the type of top nut matches the type of cam being used. ( hardened, chilled, etc )...

Originally Posted by charmalu

So most likely the lack of OOMPF this engine is lacking now, could be (from a lack of proper adjustments) burnt valves