You need pressure.. .it can be from a pressure bleeder.... or from the master cylinder.. but you need pressure to count on doing a good job on all types of systems...

My problem with pressure bleeders is that I suspect the fluid not used when the can is opened and put into it... is used later... stored in the bleeder ... having absorbed moisture... that problem could be overcome by pressurizing it with Nitrogen or Argon or some other dry gas...instead of AIR or just get rid of what is not pumped into the system at the end of the bleeding process.

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Some Facts About Brake Hoses:
#1. The the industry standard average safety life of a brake hose is six years. FYI data SAE: J1401, J1703, J1705, J1873, J1406, J1288, J1403, J1833, J1402.
#2. Brake hoses deteriorate from the inside as well as the outside.
#3. Moisture is absorbed into brake fluid systems through brake hoses.
#4. Contaminants in brake fluid act abrasively on the inner wall of brake hoses.
#5. The brake hose reinforcing fabric deteriorates through expansion and moisture.
#6. High operating temperatures contribute to the deterioration of hoses.
#7. Brake hoses swell with age and restrict flow.
#8. Generally all brake hoses on a vehicle deteriorate at the same rate, So all hoses should be replaced if one is found to be faulty!

Brake hose failure mode:

#A. Rupture (burst hose) = age, exercise (too many miles) or impact are the typical cause.

*B. Partial internal collapse = the inner ply becomes damaged/detached acting as a partial restriction and/or one way valve.

#C. Full internal Blockage = the inner ply becomes damaged/detached acting as a plug = brake pedal still feels good but there is no brake application.

Brake bleeder recommendation
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/72839-brake-bleeder-recommendation-post455818.html

Power Bleeder or what?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/103226-power-bleeder-what-post707359.html

Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade
Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade

Brake system bleeding, master cylinder bleeding
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/149045-brake-system-bleeding-master-cylinder-bleeding-damage-warning-post1127978.html



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__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I just dispose of what's left. A little wasteful, but not a bad trade off in my opinion, considering how easy it is to do the job.

__________________
Joe

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1980 300SD - 495k miles - 'The Ambassador'
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Former Family Members
95 C280
73 280SEL
90 300D
87 300SDL (X2)
86 560SEL
84 300D
80 300SD

I got great instructions from vtech.
Seems I was trying to bleed the brakes the american car way.
I will try the German car way and report back.

She's been sitting since Oct and I really want to drive her again
now that winter is about gone and Spring is in the air. She needs
a bath. . .

__________________
Ginny in Denver-ish
78 300SD, 265K (mine)