http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=FERV765-01

Anyone have any experience with this kind of timing device? Seems like the drip method is a bit of a pita and not all that precise -thoughts?

Lots of good threads in the archives....
and the drip method has some advantages....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

The info/threads are somewhere in the below links:
DIY Repair Links
Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Has anyone used one of them before? That seems much better.

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-->1971 mercedes 220D; 617 951 engine, 4 speed

The thing with the generic Diesel Timing Devices you need to time your particular Diesel with the Factory approved Method first and hook up the Device. You use that Factory Timing to calibrate your Timing Device. (So it is not going to be more accurate than the Factory Metnod.)

One of the reasons for the above is that on a Mercedes the timing is static. The Dynamic Timing of the Diesel Timing Device will most likely take place at a different Degree number than the Static Timing.

After that you can use your Timing Device for timing with out messing with the Factory Timing Method.

If you use it on anther type of Diesel Engine you need again do as in the first paragraph.

I believe the Diesel Timing Devices I have seen favor a person or business with a lot of the very same Vehicles.

An example of this might be a School Bus Company that has a lot of small Chevy or Ford School Busses.

All of this is spoken of in the several Threads in the DIY section.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm still interested in this sort of approach though I've been spending my time doing other stuff recently...

I think the main trouble with measuring the pressure in the delivery line is that there doesn't seem to be anyway of comparing this measurement with the data in the FSM. The FSM is based on begin of delivery which happens during the power stroke. (EDIT => this is wrong! Begin of delivery occurs during the compression stroke RTFM!) The maximum pressure measured in the delivery line would occur during the compression stroke...

...if anyone has got access to some official data or unofficial data then I for one would be interested in seeing it. (If it has already been posted in the many other threads please say which one 'cos I've missed it)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If you have an RIV timing port I recommend getting the $30 lock tool. Takes 15-30min to set it that way.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

What lead you to that conclusion?

Actually with the Drip Method as long as there is any Drips present the Plunger is not yet in position to deliver Fuel.
Give us your best guess as to why they want at least some Drips present

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Below is a pic of the tool that works on my 84 300D.

I am not sure that it replaces Drip Timing because I recently purchased and used it.
While there are other causes for it I feel my Injectors are slightly noiser than before I used the Tool.
When I get around to it I will do the Drip Method so I can compare the difference between the 2 methods.

The issue with the Fuel Injection Pump Timing/Locking Pin is that because it uses a certain positon on the Camshaft; just as if the Fuel Injection Pump was brand new; it does not compensate for Fuel injection Pump Camshaft And Roller Wear.

The issue with the Drip Method is that your are only timing off of one of the Elements. It is possible for the other Elements to have their timing off.

But, off timing of the other Elements cannot be changed without going inside of the Fuel Injection Pump.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Now that sent me scuttling off back to the FSM! And errrr I've got that wrong haven't I? The FSM states BTDC for an OM616 / OM617...

How come the OM603 is specified as ATDC in this wiki?

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM603InjectionPump

That's where I got the idea from...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

That (15* ATDC) is an artificial reference point, not a representation of when start of delivery actually occurs.

Thanks - I was really confused!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!