Diesel Injector Cleaning DIY - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #91 06-02-2014, 09:23 PM

When I first got My Volvo Diesel I rebuilt the Injectors with Brazilian Bosch VW Rabbit Nozzles and they were fine. The quality in 1992 when I bought them for $11 each was good.
Note that at that time Brazil makes both the Gasoline and Diesel VW Rabbits.

I also overhaued the Block on the Volo Diesel and It has had Brazilian VW Rabbit Pistons in it since 1992 with no issues. The Pistons ever surved Me dropping a Screwdriver into the Timing Belt and breaking it causing Valves and Pistons to coolide. Had to fix the Head but the Pisotons survived it. It was at idle speed.
Note the Brazilian Pistons were $47 Each Volvo wanted $240 and some other source wanted $190 each for the Pistons. The Volvo Disel Engine made by VW and is sort of a 6 Cylinder Rabbit Engine. Lots of interchangeable parts.

At the moment I am not overly happy with Flag were ever the parts might be made. A few Months ago the Fuel Injection Pump Seal I repalcede 5-6 Years ago on My Volvo Diesel Fuel Injection Pump started leaking. It is supposed to be a Viton Seal.
I just finished taking the IP apart this moring. (Note you can chage the Seal without taking the IP Apart but I am going to replace the Shaft Bushings.)

I have never seen a seal fail like this one did and it is made by Flag Made in German. I was expecting a different problem like a Shaft or Bushing problem.

Was this a Seal issue or a or Fuel issue???

spock505 · #92 06-03-2014, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

There are many ways to clean aluminum--everyone seems to have a [different] favorite. Degreasing comes first, as others have written. I found biodiesel to be a great solvent for oil and grease, followed by a thorough soak and scrubbing in very hot soapy water, hot water rinse, and dry in the sun.

After degreasing, I found that a hand-held fine wire brush or fine steel wool, and Mother's mag wheel and aluminum polish works well on rough surfaces such as the intake manifold. For smoother surfaces like the valve cover, use something softer, a rag or perhaps a green scrubbie, to avoid scratching. If the rag turns black, it means oxidized aluminum is being removed, which is what you want. The improved appearance should last several years. There are special paints that can be applied--I had a local firm quite me--but are quite expensive for anything other than a show car.

Again, there are many cleaning methods that have worked for others. This is jut what I've found works for me. If you do a little cleaning whenever you do routine maintenance or a project, you'll eventually have the entire engine compartment shiny.

Jeremy

Thanks Jerermy.

I had a good degree of success this evening using flat blade screw driver to very gently to lift off the lacquer. It flaked off reasonably easy in most places but I found stainless steel pad for nooks and crannies.

Agreed on the bio diesel as a solvent, best out there by far. I have 20 litres bought especially for this job. I have left a thin film over night on the stubborn engine bay parts, will clean off tomorrow.

Cheers,

spock505 · #93 06-03-2014, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

When I first got My Volvo Diesel I rebuilt the Injectors with Brazilian Bosch VW Rabbit Nozzles and they were fine. The quality in 1992 when I bought them for $11 each was good.
Note that at that time Brazil makes both the Gasoline and Diesel VW Rabbits.

I also overhaued the Block on the Volo Diesel and It has had Brazilian VW Rabbit Pistons in it since 1992 with no issues. The Pistons ever surved Me dropping a Screwdriver into the Timing Belt and breaking it causing Valves and Pistons to coolide. Had to fix the Head but the Pisotons survived it. It was at idle speed.
Note the Brazilian Pistons were $47 Each Volvo wanted $240 and some other source wanted $190 each for the Pistons. The Volvo Disel Engine made by VW and is sort of a 6 Cylinder Rabbit Engine. Lots of interchangeable parts.

At the moment I am not overly happy with Flag were ever the parts might be made. A few Months ago the Fuel Injection Pump Seal I repalcede 5-6 Years ago on My Volvo Diesel Fuel Injection Pump started leaking. It is supposed to be a Viton Seal.
I just finished taking the IP apart this moring. (Note you can chage the Seal without taking the IP Apart but I am going to replace the Shaft Bushings.)

I have never seen a seal fail like this one did and it is made by Flag Made in German. I was expecting a different problem like a Shaft or Bushing problem.

Was this a Seal issue or a or Fuel issue???

Bosch ones it is then Diesel,

Oddly enough the Brazilian made nozzles are more than double the price if Indian made, not sure why but having just assembled the pop tester I am extremely pleased with the build quality.

Will update when they arrive.

spock505 · #94 06-06-2014, 07:29 AM

I pop tested four out of the six injectors today.

Results very poor, stringy mist pattern with one opening into a v jet off to one side. Pop pressure were weak too, most around the 90-100bar mark which is below the 110 for used injectors.

Any idea what make they are, is that a Bosch logo?

Diesel911 · #95 06-06-2014, 06:50 PM

Do a search on this Forum using the word Counterfeit.

There was an old thread were one of our Members got some counterfeit Nozzles.

The do a Google image search for Counterfeit Bosch Nozzles.

I saw some pictuers several weeks ago. It has to do with How the lettering on the Nozzle is applied and also the Plastic tube the Nozzle is in

Below is one of the Pics I copied. The text in the Pic has that the Counterfeit Nozzle did not have the Flat Spot/Facet on the Nozzle Pintel.

For some reason that is the only Picture I copied.

spock505 · #96 06-06-2014, 07:12 PM

I would be surprised if they are not originals, only 126k documented miles. The last two injectors were as bad with very weak pop pressure resulting in watery mist.

I have sent the pics across to two Bosch distributors, let's see if they pick up on anything.

Pleased to have found likely cause of the nailing.

Last thought, were there not some late W/S124's made in Brazil?

spock505 · #97 06-06-2014, 07:18 PM

Can you tell from the VIN where the vehicle was manufactured?

Assembly
Bremen, Germany
Rastatt, Germany
Sindelfingen, Germany
Zuffenhausen, Germany
Pune, India (TELCO)[1]
Toluca, Mexico[2]
Karczew, Poland[3]

jotscan · #98 08-01-2018, 11:44 AM

Enclosed is Section 07.1-137 Disassembly, cleaning, assembly and adjustment of injection nozzles.

jotscan · #99 08-01-2018, 12:09 PM

Enclosed is Section 07.1-135 Checking injection nozzles (injectors)

jotscan · #**100** 08-08-2018, 06:03 PM

Tester with digital gauge: (1)
SSI Technologies MG1-3000-A-9V-R, ± 1% full scale with calibration certificate.
Actual Pressure = Gauge Reading - 2 psi

POP pressure was determined by using the gauge’s feature of recording the highest pressure registered during the test.

Video of the test recorded with iPhone (4K video), transferred to iPad 12.9” for frame by frame review. Pressure when fuel injection occurred was recorded for 20 data points, the mean injection pressure was then calculated. (2)
Acceptance criteria:

•Specifications based on section 07.1-135 of the Mercedes Benz service manual.

Fuel Injector Spray Pattern Test ^(A)

BAD: No fine mist pattern, no spray, droplets on nozzle tip, watery mist.

GOOD: Fan mist pattern ^(B)

Paragraph 4 of Mercedes Benz manual 07.1-135:

4. Test longitudinal bore (15) in throttle pintle. At slow, uniform downward movement of hand lever (approx. 4-6 seconds per stroke) a distinct, vertical cord-like jet (arrow) should come out of longitudinal bore (15). If no cord-like jet comes out, check longitudinal bore with cleaning needle 0.13 mm dia for unobstructed passage. If longitudinal bore is clear, the injection nozzle can be used again.

Note: Test procedure also applies to new injection nozzles.

A pressure drop of 73 psi or less ⁽³⁾ between POP pressure and mean injection pressure.⁽⁴⁾

The pressure during fuel injection duration is lower than the pop pressure.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(1) Pressure gauge accuracy can be verified by using a deadweight tester: AMETEK Hydro-Lite HL-20

(2) Pressure gauge with data logger is available: Ametek Crystal Engineering model 2KPSIXP2i-DL

(3) Observation based on testing 7 injectors: The best performing injector tested had a pressure drop of 37 psi.

(4) From Chapter 2 “Diesel Engine Characteristics” B. Kegl et al., Green Diesel Engines, Lecture Notes in Energy 12, London 2013, page 12.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/311974192/Green-diesel-engines-pdf (page19 of the book)
“Injection duration is the time span from the beginning to the end of injection. In general, injection duration should be as short as possible. At higher engine speed, injection duration should become longer and the mean injection pressure should be reduced. (Desantes et al. 2004)”

Spray Description References:
(A) Injector rebuild question (Reply #3)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/393547-injector-rebuild-question.html
(B) Electronic Pop Tester Cheap (video of sound and spray pattern: pop-testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jXX_rGqgGo)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/346142-electronic-pop-tester-cheap.html

wwii · #**101** 11-27-2018, 07:14 PM

After cleaning, lapping, re-assembly; do you need to lapp the sealing surfaces every time you take the injector apart to change the shim(s) for adjusting the pop pressure??

Diesel911 · #**102** 01-05-2019, 12:18 PM

See pics. Take a part and re-assemble Injector with no vice.

Get a clean board. Put your injector socket on a breaker bar and slide the injector inside of the socket. Get the correct sized open end or combination wrench and put it over the flats on the Injectors upper body.

Position the breaker bar and wrench in the best position for you to apply force with one of them laying a cross the board.

The same method could be used with 2 combination wrenches to take them apart. However, you are supposed to use a torque wrench for assembly. The socket and torque wrench go where the socket and breaker bar were.