Anyone know the proper names of these parts? Rear bearing change on w123

[azitizz]

Hi there I just had my 85 300 TD w123 come back from the mechanics as I was trying to get a rear bearing replacement/overhaul but apparently I didnt have all the right parts.

I picked up all the parts I thought I needed, Inner and outer bearings and seals, two sets of each, at car parts stores passing through northern Vermont.

He printed up this diagram to show me which parts I needed still to get the job done. However Im not sure what the proper names of these parts are to be sure, or the exact part numbers. #47 on the diagram is noted as a "slot nut", #48 looks like an inner seal? and #54 also a seal but it isn't specified what seals they are on the diagram, or if his diagram has the proper descriptions.

Any Ideas?
Thanks alot.
Michael

[AMH]

The NAPA part number is 924 (one kit per wheel). It will come in a Febi/Bilstein orange box. This kit gives you everything to do the job correctly. Inner, outer seals and bearings, retaining nut, crush sleeve. Most of the NAPA warehouses up North have them in stock. I've done this job several times, not difficult. It's critical to set the backlash correctly, you only get one shot.

47 is a slotted nut
48 is a seal
54 is a seal

[whunter]

You order the Kit, MB# 1233500068
One per side.
Fastlane:
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1619114
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=1233500068



Plus MB# 1153530142
One per side.

1153530142 Rear wheel bearing CRUSH spacer
1153530142 Rear wheel bearing preload CRUSH spacer





.

[Stretch]

Have a look at the prices for the individual parts and compare them with the price of the whole kit. When I did mine it worked out to be more expensive to buy a few individual parts than to buy a complete bearing set - madness I know...

All I'm saying is don't automatically think "oh I've already got new bearings" - it could be cheaper just buying the set.

[azitizz]

hmmm, I see. Its looking more and more like it may be more feasable to get the entire rear axle assembly? I think someone posted that on a different thread discussing this. That it ended up being cheaper even with the shipping and removal by the junk yard.

Its the labor thats going to be killing me it seems. They estimated a 7 hour labor job. and over $100 each for the bearing kit (need two of them)... thats almost $1000
... decisions....

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by azitizz

hmmm, I see. Its looking more and more like it may be more feasable to get the entire rear axle assembly? I think someone posted that on a different thread discussing this. That it ended up being cheaper even with the shipping and removal by the junk yard.

Its the labor thats going to be killing me it seems. They estimated a 7 hour labor job. and over $100 each for the bearing kit (need two of them)... thats almost $1000
... decisions....

You could always do it yourself but then you'll need the special slotted socket - that was just over 100 euros from the dealer over here...

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWheelBearings

If you can find a good trailing arm then I guess that will work out cheaper for the short term but how long will it be before you need to replace the bearing in the replaced trailing arm. It is all guess work. Good luck.

[winmutt]

Originally Posted by AMH

I've done this job several times, not difficult.

Boggled. IIRC it was one of the biggest PITA I have ever dealt with.

[charmalu]

I removed a set of trailing arms last summer, and installed them in my 85. not that big a deal to remove, maybe 3 hours. I dropped the whole rear suspention, sub frame, trailing arms, axles, differential all as one assembly.
then drag it out from under the car, remove the 13mm bolt in the hub, and the 2 24mm bolts on each arm, and they come right off.

Arms with the hubs were $42 each. Just find a low milage one, they show up now and then. the W126 first Generation, 81 to 85 are the same. I see more low mileage Gassers come in.

Charlie

[azitizz]

Originally Posted by charmalu

I removed a set of trailing arms last summer, and installed them in my 85. not that big a deal to remove, maybe 3 hours. I dropped the whole rear suspention, sub frame, trailing arms, axles, differential all as one assembly.
then drag it out from under the car, remove the 13mm bolt in the hub, and the 2 24mm bolts on each arm, and they come right off.

Arms with the hubs were $42 each. Just find a low milage one, they show up now and then. the W126 first Generation, 81 to 85 are the same. I see more low mileage Gassers come in.

Charlie

Thats good to know. So when looking for one. (I actually only have a problem with the right side at this point) I can pick up anything between 81-85 W126 or W123? Diesel or Gas?

And when removing the old one. Anyone seen any tutorials for that, or have any poiinters?
Trailing arm and lower control arm are the same thing Im assuming?

Also I have a torn axle boot on the right side. I have a new one but is it possible to put it on without taking apart the hub while making the change?
Thanks for the tips.

[Stretch]

When I did mine I did the whole subframe

Rear subframe removal and bushing replacement

There's loads of information in this thread including some good advice from charmalu

Otherwise do this search in google =>

w123 trailing arm site:peachparts.com

and you'll see loads of possibilities.

As for the type of trailing arm that you need - you need a steel one from a W123 or W126 first generation.

There is an aluminum one out there that as far as I can tell won't fit with ease =>

Trying to fit an aluminium W126 / 107 trailing arm to a W123 - a question of compatib

As for the axle boot. You need to remove the axle from the car to replace the boot unless you can find a really cheap and cheerful emergency zip boot which will never work with an oil filled axle (so you'd have to put grease in instead).

Rebooting an axle is a time involved task if you are going to use the original type of boot - it is quite a bit quicker if you use a flexible boot and a boot gun. You can hire a boot gun on this forum - moderator vstech has one for example.

[azitizz]

Well, Im getting closer to doing something about this. Lots of online reading....
Im getting a noise in the rear right wheel and a mechanic who did a tire change reccomended a bearing change. I just read in other posts here that some people have driven for over 200K miles with bad bearings...

My next step was to get one or perhaps 2 new trailing arms and attaempt a replacement, My Wife is terrified that the car will fall apart if we drive it anywhere. Ive been driving it nonetheless as we have no other means.

So assuming indeed it is the bearings, I should be good for at least another 1000 to 2000 miles do you think?

I liked the Idea of tapping a grease nipple and squeezing it through... Has anyone else done that?

What is an easy wasy to tell if indeed the noise is coming from the bearings. Will teh wheel spin poorly if its jacked up? It makes sort of a grinding noise that is consistent with the speed of the wheel if I drive very slowly listening. I felt the hub behind the wheel and it was hotter than the left one. Could that simply have to do with different functionalities of the wheels, one being the drive wheel and other not?