Orifice tube install... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

1980sd · #1 07-13-2011, 04:17 PM

Flare to #6 hose fitting and 90 deg flare fitting for high pressure.

Flare to #10 hose for low pressure.

leathermang · #2 07-13-2011, 04:19 PM

Why are you starting a million different threads for this project..
how are people using the search feature in the future supposed to be able to see and comprehend it ?

1980sd · #3 07-13-2011, 05:48 PM

Big @ss accumulator:

It's like a rocket engine for your AC...

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Why are you starting a million different threads for this project..
how are people using the search feature in the future supposed to be able to see and comprehend it ?

What threads?

leathermang · #4 07-13-2011, 06:50 PM

Before you get too far along with filling the system...
I suggest you put one of those 'stick on' thermometers on the side of that accumulator... like is used for Propane tanks to show how much is still inside....
On the side of the condensor too.... would be very interesting... since you do not know the exact volume of your system now.... some good checks for how it is functioning inside the system....

1980sd · #5 07-13-2011, 07:14 PM

Excellent idea on the thermometer!

Here it is in it's natural habitat:

Fits everything from a Buick Regal to a Suburban. It's not labeled "IN/OUT" like my old receiver and the one I have on hand

Mine is also going to be a good bit farther from the evaporator as well...

I'll probably end up with a *****in' cold accumulator it'll turn my evaporator into some kind of heater...

vstech · #6 07-13-2011, 09:49 PM

FYI, there is no reason to remove the receiver in this experiment by the way.
it can only help the system cool.
that size accumulator can handle a lot of slop with charge.

1980sd · #7 07-13-2011, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

FYI, there is no reason to remove the receiver in this experiment by the way.
it can only help the system cool.
that size accumulator can handle a lot of slop with charge.

Thanks John! I don't have the receiver installed but I have all the fittings. Should I just go ahead and install it? Also, do you think that having the "remote" accumulator will cause any problems?

leathermang · #8 07-13-2011, 09:59 PM

It acts as a reserve for ' stored, work inputted ' refrigerant ... as in when stopped at lights.... I have thought about putting two in parallel into my 240d with rotoloc valves on each side of each of them..... allowing me to change out one at a time without evacuating or recharging the whole system....and providing extra reserve for really bad Austin traffic...

engatwork · #9 07-13-2011, 10:09 PM

Maybe you need to sell a "kit" Jon

.

79Mercy · #10 07-13-2011, 10:13 PM

I say we start a new thread on that!!

Good work 1980SD!

leathermang · #11 07-13-2011, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy

I say we start a new thread on that!!

Good work 1980SD!

yeah..... make it 9 threads on this project....

79Mercy · #12 07-13-2011, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

yeah..... make it 9 threads on this project....

hahahahahahha

i posted that JUST for you leather dude

engatwork · #13 07-13-2011, 10:25 PM

lol

It looks like it is going to be a good job. How you gonna wire it Jon? I guess you will need to post another thread on it.

Sum em all up when you get that sucker where you can hang meat in it and put together a little diy

.

1980sd · #14 07-13-2011, 10:39 PM

Recap:

Built this getup to replace aged R4 compressor with Sanden:

Consensus seems to be it's a good thing. Maybe not a performance gain but it has a good reputation for reliability. (The compressor, not the bracket...)

This is requiring some oil cooler line work. My bottom cooler line is loose in the ferule... (For another thread) and motor mounts/shock.

Decided to go with the legendary P-flow condenser and bigger fan:

This is another mod that's supposed to pay decent dividends and cure what ails you. Pretty different project from the compressor retrofit I thought.

Now I'm doing this which I consider a separate project within a larger plan and the only phase that will require any electrical work other than the compressor clutch.

Any input on what the cycling pressures should be? What parameters do most CCOT systems cycle at? I'll be able to change them out without losing charge and some of them are adjustable via a screw between the prongs.

I probably need direct evaporator temp...

1980sd · #15 07-14-2011, 12:58 AM

Now I have a larger than stock capacity receiver/drier on board:

#8 hose from the compressor to the top of the condenser.

#6 hose from the bottom of the condenser to receiver. I had to drill a hole in the bulkhead to get the line out of the receiver into the engine compartment.

Gonna have to change some stuff up front but it will fit. Just a quick and dirty mock up.

One thing is sure. I have plenty of capacity now! Seems to be an agreement about capacity being a good thing...

Any input? I believe the accumulator actually exerts some suction when it's running. I had it in the house with the AC on and after working in the heat I noticed it was almost cold to the touch. I'm in the process of getting it acclimated to the garage temps again

When testing the fan I noticed the temp of the evaporator seemed to drop noticeably

Probably not too good with the humidity we've had down here...

I also have an oiling issue

The Sanden literature says that having the compressor full is enough but I'll have 2 driers that can soak up oil... At least the Sandens don't seem to be as oil sensitive as R4's.

The receiver/drier should make sure the orifice tube has plenty of liquid to work with and the accumulator should help the gas that is created move through the evaporator and make sure no liquid reaches the compressor.

There are filters on each plus a filter on the orifice tube.

Most seem to agree filters are good.

I'll probably put the low pressure switch on the receiver and the clutch cycling switch on the accumulator.

I believe the clutch cycling switches work off of grounding.

A GM 134a switch is from 21-44psi. and picks up the signal at the accumulator and is based on a .072" orifice tube.

Fords 134a switches are from 23-46psi and use a .067" tube. Ford also has .057" and .062 tubes.

I'm just going to start with a GM "white" which is .072 and a GM 134a switch.

Greg is silent... His mind must be blown...