OK guys. I got it towed home before the rain hit and I was able to put the cover on it. So, that crisis came to a close. Now, I'm just trying to figure it all out.

I started this morning by reconnecting the starter (in that I wasn't ever able to get it out yet anyway) and then I thought I'd try the battery cables. I installed a stereo with an inline fuse for the subs that connects to the battery on the red. I thought maybe that was the culprit, so I just took it completely off.

Same thing, though. Starter just clicks and the windows don't roll up.

I'm heading up to AutoZone now to get new fuses, and I'm going to start there.

Also, I'm in Cleveland, Ohio.

Also, thank you everyone for all the help. It helps me to stop freaking out when I know there is a pool of people who know what they are talking about "reading" over my shoulder.

What voltage does your battery have? Do you have a battery load tester and a battery charger?

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Do you have a way to check it with a known good battery? How about a friend with a battery charger or someone to give it a jump. As several have said , let's make sure you have a good source of power before you start throwing parts at it.

Please keep us posted

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

Damn, Kerry and I posted basically the same advice within two minutes of each other

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

Yes I agree with Kerry you do need to ascertain battery health - if you can't test the battery do you have jump leads and a friendly neighbour (who also has a car that works!)?

EDIT:- I also agree with psaboic who posted at the same time!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Great minds copy each other..... LOL

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Ok, more updates.

I got fuses from Advance Auto. I wanted to just replace all of them, but they did not have enough at the store, so I just got the ones that I thought were most pertinent. i.e. the windows.

But, I got in there, and the number 8 fuse was blown. It said on the diagram inside the fuse box that the #8 was for AC compressor, which is odd, cause it was working at the time of the "incident".

I got a voltage meter while I was there too. It's saying that the battery is pushing 11.82 volts.

I got in, and the windows went up!!

And...the car didn't start.

Still nothing but a clicking.

I suspect that there are two different issues here, one being a blown fuse (and more importantly, what caused the blown fuse ??) as well as a solenoid. Again, as I said before, from the first time I started the car, the starter made a crazy, low, WHURR after the engine fires each time. I'm stupid, I suppose, because I thought that wasn't what a bad starter sounded like, in that I had to replace the starter on my last truck too, and the "bad" sound was different.

However, the sound then was because the teeth were bad on the actual starter, whereas, I kind of think that this issue is the solenoid.

I checked again this morning before re-attaching the wires to the solenoid to see if there was any visible "bad" spots, and I couldn't see any.

And, actually, now that I think about it, this is really weird.

Why, last week, would the windows not work, then when i pulled the vaccuum tube back off, they did again.

And now, a replaced fuse makes them work again?? Would that fuse have blown the first time around and that would have been the end of it? It can't, like start pushing current again intermittently after it's blown can it?

Your battery is dead. 11.82 volts is not enough to energize the starter. Charge it or jump it and then get a reading of the battery with the engine running to check the alternator output.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

The vacuum line and your window problem are INDIRECTLY related, at best. The electrical system is totally and completely independent of the vacuum "system". Maybe you bumped something under the hood - A WIRE or connector - that led to the window malfunction, but that is extremely unlikely.

Sounds to me like your problem, as others have stated, is with your battery. 11.82 volts, without load. Put some jumper cables on there or, better yet, go get a brand new battery, clean the posts and clamps until bright and shiny, and stick that sucker in there.

I'm not saying you don't need a starter. Pull it the rest of the way out and take it with you to the auto parts store. You'll need to take the little phillips-head screw for the "B" terminal with you so the parts folks can put in on their tester. Shouldn't cost ya' anything. Then you'll know.

You monkeyed with the hot lead on the battery when you installed your stereo, no? Is this when your problems started? Inspect the battery cable that runs from the positive post on the batt to the starter very carefully. Did you tighten the clamp sufficiently? Did you clean the clamp and post? Check your ground wire from the batt to the p/s inner fender. Tight? Any corrosion?

Again, your problem with the windows and starter is ELECTRICAL. Maybe you have vac issues as well, but that is not what caused the window malfunction.

Cheers!
Jay

__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

Ok. I thought the magic number was "at or around 12" I'm going to try to charge the battery and see how that fares. Then if that's no good, I'm going to go ahead and finish pulling the starter.

I'll keep y'all updated.

(oh, and no, I didn't screw with the terminal. I put eyes on the wire and added them to the screw on the battery cable, as opposed to wiring in to it, or something like that.

Don't just try to charge the battery and then pull the starter. So far, there's no evidence your starter is bad, only evidence the battery is low. Battery might not take a charge and take a charge but not have enough amperage to energizxe the starter. Given the symptoms you need to charge and load test the battery before reaching any conclusions about your starter.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

OK. Looks like I need to get my hands on a battery charger. I'll post the load of the battery after there's been a charge running through it.

Can't someone give you a jump? AAA? How close to out is that starter? If you want to try to start it, don't worry about the front support bracket for now, if you already have that apart. Just get the two big bolts that go through the bell housing in and snug and reconnect the electrical. On a 240 you should be able to do most/all of that from up top.

Jay

__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

Take the battery to Autozone or some such place. They will charge and test your battery and tell you if it will hold charge for free. If it doesn't you could buy a replacement right there and take it home and drive away with your windows up/down/in between. (Assuming your alternator is operating correctly).

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT