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#16
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sleeves in
Well I got around reading the manual a bit, mainly the part about the cylinders, I use the screw again to push the sleeves in, I started with a rubber mallet and a hammer and a wood block for the first 4cm, to be sure that the sleeves were going straight I use just a caliper.
Once the sleeves were centered and about 4cm inside then I used the screw, It was interesting how the sleeves advanced in the block, it wasn't in a linear way it was more by little steps like I imagine the screw stretch until the sleeve give up and advance like 2mm or 3mm each time almost like a spring loaded mechanism, I used also a wood block and then a nylon block to smoothen the axion. Well the third sleeve worn me out, I may finish tomorrow putting the four sleeve in place. |
#17
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sleeve top
The other thing is that I messure the top off the sleeve and the depth of the block groove, to see how much should be left wen the sleeve was all the way in, and all the number so far are matching up, block 4.6mm sleeve 5.2mm left outside .6mm
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#18
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Once you get them in all the way the top of the block is to be surfaced so they are flush with it.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#19
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Nice,clean job on the sleeves. Seeing your setup makes me appreciate my press. No elbow grease needed here.
The sleeves advancing in steps is normal, getting worse the further they going in. Like to see some pictures of the machining of the block.
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![]() 76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25. 85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold ) 60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A. 88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A. 67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale. 64 220SE. For resto. |
#20
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this just popped up local to me
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts/2482552922.html ![]() I also want to get a 616 cheap and rebuild it |
#21
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Well all the liners are in now, I'm getting a set up to re bore the cylinders now, that may take a bit of time, I'm also waiting for the piston rings to arrive.
I have some tools that I will be making for the honing, measuring, boring, machining, I will see how it goes |
#22
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How are you getting on? Is it done yet?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#23
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Quote:
That doesn't mean that there aren't any, though.
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#24
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new progress
So it take some time but I'm getting some progress on the engine rebuild, after moving to a new house and doing a bunch off stuff I'm finally making some progress with the engine long story short
We got a new place more than a year ago have a baby and time went by pretty fast I also got a broken down lathe back in march that I fix up and use to make a boring machine from a radio arm saw and some square pipe. So far in the past two weeks I finish the boring machine and make some tools for it, I re bore cylinder number 3 and cylinder number 2 I'm now boring the cylinder number 1 and so far the boring machine seems to be working fine, I went to far on cylinder 3 so I'm going to replace the sleeve. Here some pictures, I will put down more details as I keep the work going, |
#25
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engine swap
It took me a couple off weeks to put the engine back together after boring the cylinders, and make some new tools to swap the old engines.
Timing is still a bit off and I may do some tuning on the IP and rebuild a set off injectors, over all the engine works pretty well. I will post some pictures Last edited by whunter; 01-30-2015 at 03:38 AM. Reason: spelling |
#26
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Are you SURE about that ? I think I remember they are supposed to be a bit proud of the block... making them much more difficult to deal with..
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#27
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all in wonder machine
After pressing the new liners I use the all in wonder machine to bore the cylinders to the 90.9mm size and then I ground the top off and finish the top with a very large file, this was more like a learn and test run
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#28
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Boring to a certain size is the way old American engines were put together... I think according to the manual you are supposed to measure the piston going into that cylinder and bore with respect to its size...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#29
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Great work. I started on my failed 1985 617 engine a few years ago. I got the cylinder liners out easy once I found the cast iron split easy by forcing a thin screwdriver between the block from the bottom side. Some here pooh-pooh'ed that since "not in manual", "screwdriver might mar the block", and other foolish ideas. A little harder to get the new liners in. I heated the block over a propane stove and chilled the liners, but still had to use a sledgehammer on a steel plate above each. Perhaps should have sanded the block bores more and used oil. They started easy, but got harder about 1/2 way down. You can tell by the sound when they seat on the shoulder and stick up about the same as yours. I do have a 12-ton shop press, but didn't want to try rigging up the block in it. Stopped there, since next is paying a shop. I might also get a mill some day, and would be proud if I could finish it myself like you. I have another engine in the 1985 car, so this is just for fun.
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#30
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Yes. I am sure. they are proud after being pressed in, then they mill the top of the block flush. We've done about six and always with good results. Never a blown head gasket in any of the engines and they are all still going strong as far as I know.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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