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  #16  
Old 09-08-2011, 12:29 PM
sjh sjh is offline
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Originally Posted by zeke View Post
Enviro-safe MSDS: http://www.autorefrigerants.us/ESMSDS.htm

The rest are attached.....

Larry, I just went to AutoZone yesterday, and at least here in San Antonio, a 12oz can of R134a is $14.99 now.
Thanks Zeke. I'll look 'em over.

I believe the mix has been reformulated, at least once. It's possible that these MSDS's are for an earlier blend. If you read the unusually install instructions you'll note that they are not consistent with a single-component HC refrigerant.

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  #17  
Old 09-08-2011, 12:37 PM
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Even in '04 or so, R12 prices were not NEARLY as high as most shops wanted you to think.
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  #18  
Old 09-08-2011, 12:37 PM
sjh sjh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
Enviro-safe MSDS: http://www.autorefrigerants.us/ESMSDS.htm

The rest are attached.....

Larry, I just went to AutoZone yesterday, and at least here in San Antonio, a 12oz can of R134a is $14.99 now.
Here's where I have a problem -

(Enviro-SafeTM Refrigerant contains a trade secret odor of 1%-5% unless otherwise noted.)

It's possible to have effective odorants in the ppm level. Theirs is is 1000 times more concentrated. This ~5% unidentified component (I think it is a halogenated HC) affects the physical properties of the mixture but cannot be identified.

It clearly is not pure propane. As the unusual install instructions are not consistent with pure propane. It's obviously a mixture, probably a an azeotrope, and some odd blend that wants some air in the system.
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  #19  
Old 09-08-2011, 01:05 PM
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I was at at a car show swap meet a couple weeks ago, and a guy had 4 cans or R-12. wanted $20 a can.

I don`t remember what R-134 is at Walmart, but going up. Calif now has a core deposit of $10 a can, to be returned when the cans are returned.

They give you a 3 month time to return the cans for the refund. after that, TS.

they don`t want people to stock up and hord the stuff I guess, I did hear there is a plan to ban 134 because it is now discovered it too is bad for the enviroment. It never ends.


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  #20  
Old 09-08-2011, 01:25 PM
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Hi regsatx

Did your indy vacuum the system before you put the 2 cans in?

Thanks
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  #21  
Old 09-08-2011, 01:37 PM
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Seems like a few people have had great results using "Freeze-12". My AC repair planning on my 82 240d starts tomorrow and I AM NOT going to use R134a if I can help it!!
In my experiance I've converted 3 previous Benz to 134a with all the recommended new parts and all 3 were poor cooling here in Florida!
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  #22  
Old 09-08-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Hip001 View Post
Seems like a few people have had great results using "Freeze-12". My AC repair planning on my 82 240d starts tomorrow and I AM NOT going to use R134a if I can help it!!
In my experiance I've converted 3 previous Benz to 134a with all the recommended new parts and all 3 were poor cooling here in Florida!

Here's an idea! How about R12? It's not flammable, it cools, it makes the system last longer due to proper lubricant circulation and it's not a blend that has to be completely removed, evacuated and recharged whenever a leak is dealt with. Besides that in today's market it's relatively cheap.
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2011, 02:12 PM
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Yeah, it seems to me if you've got a system thats still on r12, you might as well keep it that way until r12 actually becomes expensive. Those of us who bought converted vehicles face a different problem. I've been tempted to give one of these propane blends a try. Other than flammability, are there any other down sides?

Anyone think profit margins have anything to do with the sudden discovery of 134a being bad?
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2011, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
Here's an idea! How about R12? It's not flammable, it cools, it makes the system last longer due to proper lubricant circulation and it's not a blend that has to be completely removed, evacuated and recharged whenever a leak is dealt with. Besides that in today's market it's relatively cheap.
That's what I'm wanting Larry. It took me 3 cars to figure it out!! (I'm kinda slow! LOL)
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2011, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvelicious View Post
Yeah, it seems to me if you've got a system thats still on r12, you might as well keep it that way until r12 actually becomes expensive. Those of us who bought converted vehicles face a different problem. I've been tempted to give one of these propane blends a try. Other than flammability, are there any other down sides?

Anyone think profit margins have anything to do with the sudden discovery of 134a being bad?

Unless a bad refrigerant/lubricant combination is in the system it is not necessarily worth a reverse conversion. Once there is a leak or other malady that needs attention, it is a relatively simple procedure to reverse convert. I've done several.

You simply, find and repair your leak or other problem that has required opening of the system. Flush all components of the system. Distribute the correct quantity of mineral or synthetic R12 compatible oil in the components as you reconnect. Install a new r/d as last step before closing system. Evacuate and charge with R12.

Hope this helps,
Larry
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  #26  
Old 09-08-2011, 03:02 PM
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Will PAG 100 work with R12 or R134a? I was wondering because I'm running a compressor designed for R12 but they are still used in the aftermarket for R134a.

It shipped with a label that said it was compatible with 12 or 134 and it had PAG 100 in it.

I'm running 134a and it's OK so far.
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  #27  
Old 09-08-2011, 03:19 PM
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No, PAG is NOT compatible with R12. Ester is compatible with both R12 and R134a. To reverse convert, you would need to thoroughly flush and change the r/d.

In the case of an R12 system that was converted using Ester, you can much more easily reverse convert.
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  #28  
Old 09-08-2011, 03:35 PM
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To: 1960mog

Yes he did. I had pretty much a full charge of R134a. BTW...This morning I had to make a trip approx 35 miles each way to a nearby town. First time I've made a highway drive with the Enviro-Safe stuff in my car. Outside temp was in the low 90s on the way home, cruising at 75 most of the time on I-10. Vent temp at one point went all the way down to 30º and possibly a hair below on low fan. Incredible!
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  #29  
Old 09-08-2011, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
Unless a bad refrigerant/lubricant combination is in the system it is not necessarily worth a reverse conversion. Once there is a leak or other malady that needs attention, it is a relatively simple procedure to reverse convert. I've done several.

You simply, find and repair your leak or other problem that has required opening of the system. Flush all components of the system. Distribute the correct quantity of mineral or synthetic R12 compatible oil in the components as you reconnect. Install a new r/d as last step before closing system. Evacuate and charge with R12.

Hope this helps,
Larry
Larry, How did you deal with the compressor itself when you reverse converted? My understanding is you are not to flush the compressor.....so how do you clean the residual oil out of there?
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  #30  
Old 09-08-2011, 05:37 PM
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Thanks regsatx

I have the same problem with my 88 560/300sd. Converted to 134a, doesn't work for s#$t. 100+ degree outside, 80 out of the vents.
I will do the same thing then you did, the AC in this car can't get any worse.

Thanks again

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