Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962 - revisited - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Nojdog · #46 11-30-2014, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

First off, what car do you have? Sounds like you have a 90-91 300D 2.5. First thing, there's no substitute to knowing what you're doing so do yourself the favor of reading through this thread - Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962? - as many times as it takes. As for a vacuum diagram, this one's hard to read but should apply to your car -

There's a bigger version of the diagram in this post but it's marked up -

Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962?

The electronics (EDS) won't care that you swapped in a pressure wastegate actuator so you don't need the MAP sensor (item B5/1) or the line leading to it. You need the line from the manifold to the ALDA (item 103) that goes through the overboost valve (item Y30). If you keep the BFS (item 123), keep all its attachments including the branch from the ALDA. I don't know if the second feed to the reservoir is necessary. My guess is it allows the reservoir to feed the emissions devices. I would cap the entire feed to the right side of the car as already mentioned, then take the additional step of capping the line to the reservoir as close to the reservoir as possible. You have to remove the fender liner around the right front wheel to get to the reservoir so maybe cap the line in the engine bay beyond the pair of splitters about where the fine green arrow is in the diagram.

Sixto
MB-less

What diagram are you referring to? I have a '91.
Sixto, so it wouldn't be good to run the boost off of the nipple next to the electronic boost control??? Or should I tap a place in the mixer for the boost using a fitting like Chris stated? I'm gonna block the egr with sheet metal like stated earlier in the thread, but I need to know how to do the egr gasket on both sides or just on the mixer side. I don't understand what the pipe from the egr to the engine is going to do. Also will I be able to take off the inner fender and access the turbo?

Thanks for all your support guys. You really go above and Beyond. Hopefully I can help others out with things I know about!

Nojdog · #47 11-30-2014, 10:49 PM

Sixto, I'm really sorry. I looked at the link and didn't realize there was 11 pages. I've only been reading the first one ha. I'll go read through a bunch of times before I keep making this thread longer than it needs to be.

sixto · #48 12-01-2014, 12:19 AM

The turbo is only accessible from above or below the engine, not from the wheel well.

There's no benefit to using the MAP sensor line for the wastegate boost signal. You should be able to thread a new line from the ALDA area to the engine vacuum pump in the factory sheath, then cross into the sheath that goes to the emissions devices then to the wastegate actuator. Or fabricate a boost signal source at the mixing pipe.

Whether or not you remove the EGR valve, fabricate a metal disk to fit over the port in the exhaust manifold that the EGR standpipe attaches to. Use the collar clamp to hold the disk (and standpipe if you keep it) in place. In the future, you can attach an EGT sensor to this port

You only need a gasket on the mixing pipe side of the blocking plate. If you see soot building at the seam, the EGR valve is leaking despite your efforts to disable it. An alternative to the disk is a freeze plug that'll fit in the manifold EGR port. That's what I did in an '87 300D -

Note the brass plug in the trap oxidizer style manifold EGR port. I couldn't find a freeze plug that was a good fit for the mixing pipe. Plus the mixing pipe is aluminum and I wasn't sure it would put with a pressed interference fit.

Sixto
MB-less

Chris_ · #49 12-01-2014, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

I wouldn't tap a boost signal into the ALDA or MAP line off the manifold. A boost leak downstream could cause an overboost situation. There's an extra threaded port or two in the manifold by the ALDA into which you can thread a barbed or banjo fitting such as one you can pull off a discarded ALDA.

An alternate gospel is to add a fitting to the EGR blocking plate at the mixing pipe for a wastegate boost signal. Use a good blob of Loktite on the barb nut or have a welder zap the nut to the blocking plate.

Sixto
MB-less

Good point Sixto - i hadnt thought of a leak in the ancillary line if Teed into for example the ALDA line... I was addressing the issue sometimes raised that the closer to the turbo the reliance or speed response of the signal... which I have long thought a theoretical difference unless in Formula one racing

If anyone has or knows of a location of a spare intake with air line / nipple fiittings intact I would like to acquire a couple ( fittings )... so that I can replace my current NPT fittings.

as far as the EGR delete unless you plan to connect an EGT sensor etc... it should be adequate to just slide a blocking plate between the EGR valve and the intake mating surface and as was stated just make a gasket for the intake side as the other side should not leak exhaust gasses unless the EGR is really not sealing well at all and as GSXR stated the EGR delete is really not necessary unless it is suspected that the EGR is stuck open as it is normally closed unless acted upon by vacuum.

hope this is of some help

Nojdog · #50 12-02-2014, 12:16 AM

I ordered my parts from atp today. The pressure actuator cost 79 bucks. I also got some 1/8 vacuum hose. I ordered a 1/8npt x4mm nipple that someone mentioned would be close to the same size as the wastegate actuator nipple.
I've been searching everywhere for a picture of the banjo bolt on my Alda. I may be wrong but I don't think my alda had a line coming off of it. On the side facing straight towards the firewall there was some kind of fitting that was really dirty and next to an electric connection plug. I really need a clear picture of the vacuum diagram for my car. The picture below is the only one I could find on the Internet and it's so blurry I can't read it. my car is a 91 300 D made in August 1990
Thanks for the tips Sixto and Chris!

gsxr · #51 12-02-2014, 08:16 PM

You can find a higher-resolution version of the diagram in the factory manual. Click OM602 and then poke around in Group 7:

http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Main.html

AzBlue · #52 12-02-2014, 09:15 PM

Has anyone performed this swap on a 95 s350. Appears that it may work. Not sure if the actuator would be the same as the garrett turbo is a bit different than what is on the 2.5. Any thoughts?

gsxr · #53 12-02-2014, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzBlue

Has anyone performed this swap on a 95 s350. Appears that it may work. Not sure if the actuator would be the same as the garrett turbo is a bit different than what is on the 2.5. Any thoughts?

Same basic concept, but a COMPLETELY different actuator and turbocharger. I forget if the 86-87 OM603 actuator fits the S350, but Sixto might know.

sixto · #54 12-02-2014, 11:49 PM

It wasn't a straightforward conversion when I tried. The actuator rod length is off and the .971 wastegate lever arm is about twice as long as the .96 arm.

Sixto
MB-less

Nojdog · #55 12-03-2014, 06:13 PM

Thanks gxsr and Sixto! The parts are on order now!

Nojdog · #56 12-05-2014, 01:34 PM

Here are bigger pics of the wiring diagram. I Also included a picture of where I put the boost signal on my crossover pipe. I have the old acuator out and remember reading somewhere how to adjust the pressure waistgate once installed, but can't find that thread anywhere now! Can someone refresh me?

Nojdog · #57 12-05-2014, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nojdog

Here are bigger pics of the wiring diagram. I Also included a picture of where I put the boost signal on my crossover pipe. I have the old acuator out and remember reading somewhere how to adjust the pressure waistgate once installed, but can't find that thread anywhere now! Can someone refresh me?

Here's the pic of the boost signal. I removed the cross pipe from the Engine first of course so I don't get shavings in the turbo. After I drilled and tapped 1/8 npt... I flush the pipes of all shavings with brake cleaner.

Nojdog · #58 12-05-2014, 02:04 PM

Let me get this right. Here is a pic of the vacuum line I'm deleting. Some people tell me to put bb's in the line. Some tell me to put a block off plate on the EGR. Some people tell me I don't have to do any of this when the vacuum is disabled The EGR stays closed and the flapper stays open. Can someone tell me some solid details?

Nojdog · #59 12-05-2014, 02:39 PM

Can I just plug off 61D that comes back around to the flying saucer.

shertex · #60 12-05-2014, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nojdog

Can I just plug off 61D that comes back around to the flying saucer.

Yes. In fact I would recommend that you do so. This has the effect of removing the vacuum reservoir from the system, which I have confirmed has no ill effect at all on the 91....EVERYTHING works perfectly. If you DON'T plug it off, make sure there's no leak in the reservoir. And remember there could be the unintended leak of your disconnecting all the routing on the passenger side....you would need then to plug the other end of the reservoir.