Simplest approach is to replace the 4-way connector with a 3-way connector. You are correct that, with no vacuum going to the passenger side, EGR is closed and flapper is open. So I don't believe there's a practical need to do anything else...unless you're nervous that your EGR is leaking.

As I mention in another post, if you simply disconnect the line that goes to the passenger side AND you decide to keep the vacuum reservoir in the system, make sure the line from the VR is plugged on the passenger side....otherwise you'll create a leak.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Should I plug it at 61d or before the vacuum reservoir???
Edit/Delete Message Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message Quick reply to this message

At 61d is fine. Then everything from that point over to and through the VR and all the way back to the pump is disconnected.

Simpler is better...fewer things to malfunction or leak....when it comes to vacuum routing.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Thanks! Can't wait to finish up!

I just did the conversion in about an hour and only cost $100!!
Before the conversion the car was doing 0-60 in 24 seconds.
On the first run after the swap 0-60 in 14seconds flat!
After adjusting the transmission linkage the car was doing 0-60 in 12.5 seconds and shifting perfect! It's a whole new car! Thanks guys! Here's a video of how I did it:
http://youtu.be/g9JZK9bwZbQ
*******update: I deleted this video because I revised it later on in this thread*******

Shertex, did you disconnect the vacuum reservoir from the BFS?

Sixto
MB-less

What is BFS? Does that refer to the vacuum amp or blue flying saucer looking thing?

Correction...I misread your question...YES, reservoir is disconnected but BFS still online.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

BFS stands for blue flying saucer (a designation which, of course, comes straight out of the EPC ).

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Nice! It's a satisfying mod, isn't it?

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Your trivia for the day: The official dealer-technician term is "FPP", for *ahem* "Flimsy Plastic Part". Apparently the usage became so common that MBUSA had to ask techs to stop using the acronym in their warranty reports. The BFS is a type of FPP... the FPP term applies to most any oddball plastic widget. I believe the term "BFS" was coined on an old MB diesel email list back in the dark ages of the interwebs, before forums crawled out of the primordial ooze...

So do I disconnect before the vacuum reservoir and leave it connected after the Vacuum reservoir all the way to the Blue flying saucer (BFS)

I mean plug it on the passenger side Right before the vr, then keep it connected from the vr to the BFS???
I have it disconnected before the BFS. Again I'm confused now.

If the BFS is online, shertex must have disconnected the reservoir at the split just before the VAC port of the BFS. To me, it's simple - cap the reservoir line from the emissions devices by the right fender then use a MityVac at the splitter just before the VAC port of the BFS to see if the reservoir holds vacuum. If it does, keep it online. If it doesn't hold vacuum, replace the split with rubber or silicone tube making sure to keep any filters, check valves or orifices in the BFS vacuum supply line. No need to spend effort or money fixing the reservoir. It takes a lot of pumps of a MityVac to draw a decent vacuum in the reservoir.

Sixto
MB-less

So Its right if I deleted the vr by plugging the line with a golf tee at the blue flying saucer (bfs)? If I need the vr, I may relocate it to the drivers wheel well and run a line from where I capped off the hose to the waste gate/egr/flapper back to the bfs with the newly relocated Vr in line? I don't know much about vac systems, but I'm guessing the vr needs to be inline to work correctly instead of having a closed end. I'm confused what to do and sorry for invading this thread with all my questions.