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#1
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If you are careful and follow the instructions and warning in the archives..
you can tighten up the adjustment nut and determine if you have too much play.. sometimes proper snake oils can cause swelling of seals enough to help for long enough to search for your replacement part...although Trans-X stopped my latest lincoln front seal leak of one quart per 75 miles and is still holding... but in general they are usually short term... Do find and follow the warnings....like turning the screw a very very small amount and test before going further....and be sure to mark the lock nut with paint.... we are talking life and death if the steering will not follow your suggestions applied at the steering wheel... As to seal replacement.... I have the chassis manuals ( both ) for the 123... what one starts getting into on some of these parts is the special tools required to do it right... Like available only to dealers....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#2
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Now there's the challenge! Make your own versions of the FSM tools - see post#2
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Quote:
Many do it all the time. The other day we needed to undo a 36mm nut off a shaft. Needed a ring spanner as there was an Allen hole in the end of the shaft to hold it with. Couldnt find one here, lost it some place. The local tool shop wanted $80 for one, a 50 mile drive & 5 days to get it. Solution; Ground some lines on the outside of a 36mm socket so it could be gripped with a stillson (pipe wrench). The Allen hole was a little rounded so used a T60 torx bit in through the 3/4" drive hole in the socket. Worked like a charm. 3' of pipe on each was needed to get it loose. Did it up the same way. Some earth moving equipment has large bolts that have splines on the end instead of hex nuts. we have made splines to fit so they can be undone. Have you tried any quench hardening of home made tools? I learned it a few years ago from a blacksmith. Its very interesting doing it.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#4
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Quote:
Is there any chance you can do a DIY on that? I'd love to learn a bit of smithing / tool making skills. It is all very well being a wizz on autocad but that's still at the puffed out chest I've got a good idea management BS stage of events. Someone who can do and not just talk about it is becoming a rare beast these days.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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