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#1
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Timing Mechanism Failure?
Ok, so here's the deal. We took the IP out to tweak it for more fuel delivery. Put it back into car, engine at 24* BTDC, IP at timing marks. Have the right drips/fuel delivery from fuel pump. Car runs like crap, shakes, smokes, backfires. We take it out thinking we had the timing off 180*. NOPE. Since then, IP #1 has been sent off to experts and needs new delivery valves and plungers. No big deal, we install IP #2.
Now #2 CAN'T be timed, fuel dumps out on the exhaust stroke at 80* BTDC at 24* ATDC, pretty much constantly. Ok, we assume that IP #2, which came from a non-running WVO car has issues. Go to junk yard and buy IP #3. It's dirty, but supposedly came off a running car. This one does pretty much the same thing, has fuel at 80* BTDC, stops delivering fuel from 18*BTDC to about 10* ATDC, then continues to dump fuel through the exhaust stroke as well. Now I'm thinking something must be broken in the timing mechanism. Any thoughts? Have I got 3 broken IPs or did I break the *(#$$@# car? I'm dying here, oh and we have a race in 11 days. ![]()
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'06 MINI GP - wants to be a race car '05 F350 - hauls race car '82 300SD - actual race car Dirty Little Freaks Racing ~ racing diesel before diesel was cool |
#2
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It is hard to say, but I doubt you have 3 broken IP's. I had a similar problem with my 190D a few years back. No matter what I did, I could not get it timed correctly (got fast at R&Ring the pump!). I finally took it to an IP shop, and they told me the timing was messed up inside the pump, and fixed it. If I remember correctly, I still had a problem timing it. I don't remember what I did wrong, but I finally got it running. I don't know if the timing device would cause that problem, but they are not that difficult to replace. Make sure you remove all the pins (bolts) that keep the chain from riding off the gear. I know there is at least one below the fuel filter mount. Use a piece of cardboard or thin sheet metal to hold the chain off the teeth to remove the timing device....Rich
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![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#3
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See if one of the Fuel Injection Pumps can use the Timing/Locing Pin see pic in post #3
IP locking tool The pic is one with the tool inserted. The Pump that can take the tool will have a 17mm Plug. If you have a Pump that can take the Tool it will be timed at 15 Degrees After Top Dead Center of the Compression Stroke.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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We do indeed have one pump with that plate and 17 mm plug. So I need to time IP #2 to 15* ATDC with that tool but can't time IP #2 to 24* BTDC by using the line up the timing marks method?
See this is what happens when parts car and race car are two different years!
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'06 MINI GP - wants to be a race car '05 F350 - hauls race car '82 300SD - actual race car Dirty Little Freaks Racing ~ racing diesel before diesel was cool |
#5
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Quote:
The drip timing procedure is somewhat counterintuitive. Is it possible that you are not interpreting the results corrrectly? With the lock tool, you are not setting start-of-delivery to 15*ATDC. You are just syncing the IP to the engine at that reference point. |
#6
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Quote:
I think it is easier to use the Timing/Locking Pin properly and it eliminates the possible errors that someone could make using other timing methods. If after that it still runs badly you need to look else where for your problem. As said previously the Timing Locking Pin and also the A&B Light reference on a Tab that is on the Governor inside of the Pump. That happens to be at 15 detrees ATDC after TDC on the Compression Stroke.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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Yep, it's time to get the timing tool, or drag it to someone who has one. We managed to get it timed "right" (but not really). It now starts, smokes less than with the bad IP, won't idle and is nailing. I think it's time to tow it into town. We're guessing the nailing is from debris possibly getting into the injectors during this whole mess (we did have the covered with glove fingers, but still). See this is what I get for pushing more performance out of a delicately balanced, worn system.
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'06 MINI GP - wants to be a race car '05 F350 - hauls race car '82 300SD - actual race car Dirty Little Freaks Racing ~ racing diesel before diesel was cool |
#8
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Quote:
I am guessing the Timing Locking Pin will be $40 something from the Mercedes Dealer. They cost slighly less on ebay after the shippin is added to the Cost. I think there is some in the Tool Rental Program. Repair Links http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82 http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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A quick update for this thread. Turns out that the timing was off on the IP by nearly 60*. Even though the marks lined up, the pump itself was out of time. I took it (car and all) into the local diesel shop and they diagnosed and fixed the problem. So moral of the story, when you follow the directions and repeatedly fail, look elsewhere for the problem and call in an expert. It wasn't cheap, but the car now runs!
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'06 MINI GP - wants to be a race car '05 F350 - hauls race car '82 300SD - actual race car Dirty Little Freaks Racing ~ racing diesel before diesel was cool |
#10
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The 617.95 Engine Manual identifies a range of IP serial numbers which were mismarked. They have to be set a couple of splines off relative to the normal procedure.
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#11
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Yep the pump on the '82 is one of those, the pump from the '85 is not.
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'06 MINI GP - wants to be a race car '05 F350 - hauls race car '82 300SD - actual race car Dirty Little Freaks Racing ~ racing diesel before diesel was cool |
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