hoping to hear from people with experience working on the IP's on this one...

say someone dumped a mix of unagreables into the tank (WVO, gear lube, diesel and ATF) and the resulting gum completely clogged up the injection pump after about 20 miles.

this we know for sure as with the back cover off you can see it's all coated in gum.

so the question is..does it have to come apart to be cleaned, so that the car will run?

if we were to soak it and clean it out real well....would that do it?

or does the pump have to come apart. (learning opportunity?)

or would swapping a pnp sourced pump be the best idea.

and no it's not mine.

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-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)

PNP as the old one will never be the same with out a rebuild.


The hard fuel lines and the tank will need to be cleaned and or replaced or the same thing will happen to the new/used pump.

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Wie lange wird Ihr Auto leben?

If you were to go further than removing the elements (the part you are meant to remove for a drip test => PeachPartsWiki: How to Set IP Timing via the Drip Tube Method) then you're going to need to take the IP to someone who has a test bench - it will have to be set up and adjusted. I'm not quite sure how expensive that would be.

If the inside of the governor is all gunked up then you might have a totally knackered injector pump. The IP is lubricated with engine oil which if it has been blocked may mean a very work out piece of machinery.

I've been playing about with a spare IP (I haven't gotten too far with it). There was a lot of gunk in mine too but it looked more like really really grotty engine oil.



Papa's got a brand new om617 IP to play with!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yes it can be cleaned.


.

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I ran 50%diesel and 50% weedeater gas to clean wvo out of pump and injectors.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Roy, whats your method ?

Oldsinner just soak it?

I doubt that anything you could suck through the lift pump would create a gum that would disable the IP in 20 miles. (unless you were trying to run JB Weld)

First put a charger on your battery.

Remove the hardlines from the top of the IP and the injectors. Just unscrew the fittings and move them to the side, no need to remove them from the car. Blow them out or just let them drip.
Remove the fuel source line from the tank at the lift pump
Attach a fuel line to the lift pump and put some clean fuel fuel in a bottle and put the fuel line in it.
(For the clean fuel I might use some ATF)
Install a new fuel filter filled with ATF
Loosen the banjo bolt for the fuel line on the IP
Pump the primer until clean ATF runs out of that fitting
Tighten the banjo bolt fitting

Now crank the engine over. You are attempting to clear the IP of bad fuel.
As each of the fuel fittings starts spewing clean ATF, stop and reattach the hardline at the IP
As each of the fuel lines starts spewing clean ATF at the injector end, stop and reattach the hardline to the injector.

If you get this far, you should be fine. If you get the engine running then you have the rest of the fuel system to clean out.
Tank
Tank strainer
Fuel source and return lines
Pre-filter

Good Luck

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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

Stuff dumped into the Fuel Tank might gunk up the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump Valves and plug up the Spin-on/Secondary Filter.

Determine if the Fuel is actually getting past the Filter (easier just to change it) and that the Fuel Supply Lift Pump is putting out enough Volume durning Cranking. You can loosen the Banjo Bolt where the Plastic Fuel Line Goes from the Filter down to the Fuel Injection Pump on the Drivers Side.

If you are getting sufficent Fuel there hook it back up and remove the Banjo Bolt/Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve from the Engine Side of the Fuel Injection Pump. Crank the Engine and see if Fuel is coming out in Sufficient amounts and at the same time clean out the Fuel Pressure Relief Valve.

The Back Cover of the Fuel Injection Pump is the Cover on the Governor and nothing from the Fuel Tank gets into there.
Even if you have an M Type Fuel Injection Pump that has a Cover on the side where you can see the Cam Followers and Return Springs and the Rack nothing from the Fuel Tank Gets into that part of the Fuel Injection Pump; it is lubricated from the Engine Oil.


Don't take the Fuel Injection Pump apart until you have exhausted other means of cleaning it (pumping a Solovent into the Fuel Injction Pump and letting it soak has worked for some). If you take the Elements out of the Fuel Injection Pump it will likely need to go to be Re-calibrated at a Fuel Injection Shop.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

As mentioned, fuel and oil rarely if ever mix inside the pump. If you want to flush gunk out, just remove the inlet and outlet banjos from the pump reservoir and flush some kerosene or diesel purge through there. I actually doubt anything nasty made it past the tank strainer, and primary and secondary fuel filters. These pumps are fairly hardy, unlike distributor pumps (like VWs) which are exclusively lubricated via fuel.

This is a case where the owner put a mixture of stuff into the tank; ATF, Gear Lube, WMO, WVO and diesel

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-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)

It depends on what gunked it up, but you can almost surely soak it out with a solvent of some description.

After that much IP work though, have a 17MM open end in your hand when you crank it up. If it runs away, start quickly loosening each line at the injector until it dribbles fuel then move on to the next one. This will shut it down quick enough to prevent any damage. Better carfeful than sorry.

BTDT!

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

good info thank you!

Then clean the strainer and filters and call it good. I've run most of that crap through an old OM615 in the past, and didn't experience any issues. Not recommended by any stretch, but the original filtering equipment should strain out the toothpicks, tampons and associated detritus just fine.

I used to drain oil, strain it through a few layers of old heavy drape material, can it up and pour in a quart or maybe two before filling up. Never had problems. I would never get oil in the fuel in any higher concentration than that and every fourth or fifth tank, run a tank of straight fuel through until really close to empty.

It got rid of my drained oil and the stuff pushed me down the road in the bargain.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

Yup, these engines will pretty much run on any viscous oil in a pinch