Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

My friend was driving his SD on a dirt road and hit a dip, bottoming out the suspension and denting the oil pan.
About a mile later, the car died.

He tried putting on new filters, but still could not get the car to start.
He got it towed home and called me.

I replaced the dented oil pan.
I also replaced the old style (leaking) primer pump thinking that is the reason it would not start.

After about an hour trying to start it, I suspected something was wrong with the injection pump.
I decided to pull the IP and replace it with a known good one.

After trying to get the start of delivery set (removing/replacing the IP three times), I figured something was wrong with the timing device, or something else.
I decided to just put the original pump back on.
After successfully getting SOD set, the engine finally started, however, it barely had any power, and it would only rev up to maybe 1,500 RPM.

I don't want to pull the IP again.
I thought that maybe the muffler was clogged, so I pulled the downpipe off the turbo, and still no power.
It seems to idle perfectly, but barely has enough power to move the car in gear (I can walk faster).

I also found out that the turbo was worn out, and thought that it might be bad enough to keep the engine from getting any air.
I removed both manifolds and the turbo, and started the engine to see if the turbo was restricting the air (had it bolted to the oil feed tube and drain tube to prevent an oil spill), but still no power.

Having ruled out he entire exhaust system, the only thing left is the fuel system.
The filters are both new, and the primer pump is new (new style).
I even tried pumping the primer while it was running to help pump fuel, but still no change.
I also tried clamping the return hose, but that did not change anything either.

Anyone have any ideas?
Like I said, I really don't want to pull the IP again.

There is the possibility that something broke inside the IP from the suspension bottoming out, but I would like to rule everything else out before trying another IP (for the second time).
I already have over 8 hours invested in trying to repair my friends car (his only transportation), and don't want to needlessly invest any more.

Thanks in advance for any ideas or help...Rich

Originally Posted by funola

I think it's odd also that all 5 injectors would clog equally and idle smoothly. Before you pull the injectors, start the engine then pull the return cap on #5 injector return barb and see if it is blocked. Wrap a white tissue around it and see what comes out.

I've asked this question before but do not remember an answer:

Is the engine starting immediately or does it take extended cranking to start?

Originally Posted by automch

It is remotely possible that the crank and bearings were starved for oil when the pan was bent resulting a partial seizure and thus stalling after a mile. If the crank and bearings are galled it will have extreme friction and refuse to rev up to high rpm. This is rare as most times when this happens the engine seizes completely. Does the engine seem to be laboring, but smooth at idle? If so then pull the pan and look at the rod and main bearings. Like I said earlier it would be very rare but something I did see happen once with a Detroit 6V53 diesel. It would start and run after they ran it dry of oil. They added oil and drove it to my shop with very low power and a top RPM of 1400. It had oil pressure and did not knock. Upon tear down I found the rear main bearing had spun in the block and was seized to the crankshaft. Block was ruined. Just a thought.

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Yes, been there, done that. ALDA is getting a good signal with the OPV bypassed.

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

It starts up immediately and idles perfectly. I had also thought that maybe the return line is plugged, and the injectors are just shutting down. I had a similar problem with my Mitsubishi. I was assembling it after a rebuild, and replaced the washers between the return rail half's. I did not realize that there was tiny holes in the copper washers, and just put solid washers in. After getting it running, it would drive for about a couple miles and just slow down and quit. I found out that if the injectors can't return, the just shut down and refuse to work. I told my IP rebuilder the symptoms, and he said to check the holes in the return rail washers. I said "what holes"? He sent me some washers with holes in them, and the engine has ran great since. I don't think that directly applies here, but I certainly can try pulling of the end cap (or even the front hose) to see if the injectors are returning, or if the engine runs better.

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

My feeling the ALDA is the culprit. Have you connected a boost gauge to the line to measure what kind if boost engine is producing?


.

Originally Posted by funola

Is the ALDA and boost in play at idle with no load? The engine won't rev past 1800 in neutral!

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

The turbo is not putting out enough boost to cause it to add any more fuel, so anything related to the turbo, ALDA, etc is irreverent. The engine runs exactly the same way with the turbo, exhaust, intake and air cleaner, and ALDA hooked up, as it did with all that stuff off (several pages of posts ago).

Originally Posted by funola

If the IP let loose debris and clogged the injectors, wouldn't it make the idle rough and erratic? The engine idles and sounds good according to OP.

Originally Posted by barry12345

This did make me think as well and still does a little. Thats why tests that are fully conclusive should be done. I believe that Mr.Hunters thoughts that the injectors are the issue now is still reasonable. The nice thing is unlike some problems you can prove they are or are not the issue fairly easily. Tests save money where practical. Shot gunning has always been questionable except for some intermittent problems perhaps.

Most working mechanics over time develop a sense of intuiton that cannot be ignored . Plus a ton of hands on experience. Those are specific important reasons guys like myself cannot run at their speed.

As a hobby working on my own cars is both relaxing and enjoyable. I amaze myself at what we can pull off when we get time to do it. The members on this site actually teach me many approaches to problems I may or may not experience or think of. Knowledge is cumlative and sometimes transferable between different fields as well.

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

It starts up immediately and idles perfectly. I had also thought that maybe the return line is plugged, and the injectors are just shutting down. I had a similar problem with my Mitsubishi. I was assembling it after a rebuild, and replaced the washers between the return rail half's. I did not realize that there was tiny holes in the copper washers, and just put solid washers in. After getting it running, it would drive for about a couple miles and just slow down and quit. I found out that if the injectors can't return, the just shut down and refuse to work. I told my IP rebuilder the symptoms, and he said to check the holes in the return rail washers. I said "what holes"? He sent me some washers with holes in them, and the engine has ran great since. I don't think that directly applies here, but I certainly can try pulling of the end cap (or even the front hose) to see if the injectors are returning, or if the engine runs better.