what did you do to your ride today? - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MBZ123 · #91 05-13-2013, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w123fanman

I'm looking more for the relay, the buzzer works fine. Apparently I need to resolder all the connections in the relay.
But 15 pieces isn't too bad, not nearly as frustrating as inheriting a house and driving over to see it and discovering the house has broken into fragments as it collapsed in on itself.

My initial impression was that you, like I would've been, were looking to eliminate that annoying buzzer. Go figure.

Bummer about the house. Just a little step up in difficulty from a passenger car tho

O YA Swapped in sum doze "new look" sun visors for Johannah.

MBZ123

w123fanman · #92 05-13-2013, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBZ123

My initial impression was that you, like I would've been, were looking to eliminate that annoying buzzer. Go figure.

Bummer about the house. Just a little step up in difficulty from a passenger car tho

O YA Swapped in sum doze "new look" sun visors for Johannah.

MBZ123

Well it certainly is the most annoying of the buzzers in the cars we have but I'm just wanting the buzzer to give me a friendly reminder that I may have accidentally left the lights on so I don't drain the battery again. Now, I wish the wiring diagram was easier to read.

charmalu · #93 05-17-2013, 11:35 AM

When we got the 240, I noticed that there was a slight bubbling under the paint along the molding on the bottom edge of the Trunk. OK I`ll get to it later, you know how that goes, that was 3 1/2 yrs ago.

Noticed it has grown and a piece of paint flaked off

, dang now I better get to it and repair this.

First wipe it down with some Wax and Grease remover to clean the surface. Its a product used in auto paint prep.

Removed the molding and see 4 places the rust has started around the 8mm screw holes. there are 6 that hold the bolding on from under the lip of the trunk.

Use some Jasco paint stripper and a small brush to dab on the goop. then after it bubbled up, uses a small wood chisel to carefully scrape off the paint. took about 4 tries with the goop.

Sanded the rusted areas with 120 grit wet/dry. did it dry. wiped it down again. then treated it with the POR Metal Ready. (Phosphoric Acid) followed the directions. after it was dry etc... gave it a coat of the POR Paint.

When the paint was cured, I sanded it to take off the gloss with 400 grit wet/dry. wiped it down again with wax/grease remover. then using my bottle of MB touch up paint covered it. didn`t come out as good as I wanted, the paint was drying too fast, but at least it wont rust any further.

Got the 240 all washed and waxed to de-bug it from our trip to Oregon and back. polished up the VC and the Air Cleaner Lid, Grill, Star, Mirror backs, and the Bumpers. Put on a coating of the 303 Tire protectant.

The left head light door has been cracked for a while, and some crazing on the plastic, so swapped on a good one. that top white plastic thumb screw piece that screws on didn`t want to come off.

took me about 10 min of fiddling with it with some pliers. the threaded rod was rusty and was a fight to the bitter end. GRRRR.

Now we are all prettied up for the run today down towards Los Angeles, actually Santa Monica for Rollguys GTG.

Charlie

Doktor Bert · #94 05-17-2013, 12:16 PM

This...210mm - 2.47:1 560 SEL diff and Lobro axles into W116.120 (78 300 SD)

Codifex Maximus · #95 05-22-2013, 04:13 AM

That new diff is just plain perty dok. Vera Vera nice.

Doktor Bert · #96 05-22-2013, 09:57 AM

I hate to drive through puddles now...

pgringo · #97 06-09-2013, 06:23 PM

vacuumed the hell out of the mercedes. going back out right now to do the same to the wife's truck.

tjts1 · #98 06-09-2013, 06:28 PM

Tried a 16oz bottle of TCW3 for the first time. Within a few miles I noticed is a much quieter idle . Might be worth it just for the reduced noise.

pgringo · #99 06-09-2013, 10:26 PM

Neighbor stopped by in his 85 I think it is.

charmalu · #**100** 11-19-2013, 12:24 PM

The rear seat back rest has been totally gone as far as any support with the old Horse hair rotted and crumbled like burnt toast, and the cloth along the bottom of the seat has long ago lost its grip and rotted away. along with the cloth back sewn to the MB Tex.

I found a good seat back in a 84 300D in PNP, though the color was a light sandy color, and the 240 is Bamboo. figured with the Ivory paint maybe it would look ok and had to convince my Wife it would look ok. she had her doubts.

Had to do some scrubbing to the MB Tex with soft scrub, and a sponge, brush and dry cloth to wipe it dry. It was a nice hot day so that was good.

Removed the old seat and vacuumed up the Burnt Toast. I had another one of the insulating blankets MB uses under the seats and placed it over the original thinking it might quiet down the 240 some.

The new seat HH is in good condition, and is a little dry, but an improvement over the brown stuff used 32 yrs ago. new stuff has a green coating to it. so I had the bright idea to spray on some 3M 8090 to the whole back to maybe lock it in. seems to work ok, left it in the hot sun the next day to flash off.

Got the new seat in and WOW does it look good. nice and firm and good support. with the bottom seat in and everything locked down I did get an approval from my wife that it really isn`t all that noticeable with the different color. and $20 for the seat, can`t go wrong with that.

The can of 8090 cost more.

Charlie

Bio240D · #**101** 11-19-2013, 01:40 PM

Today I'm installing new turbocharger bearings on my turbocharged 240D. It seemed to be spraying oil from the compressor end. I had it all apart to take pics of my adapter plate for ebay anyway, so it seemed like a good time to freshen up the T-3!
Happy Turboing Everyone!
Chris

Silber Adler · #**102** 11-19-2013, 02:11 PM

I put in a new voltage regulator last week. Lights are brighter with the boost from 12.8 volts that the old one was making.

I was able to access it from underneath. Only needed to remove two small bolts.

SD Blue · #**103** 11-19-2013, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doktor Bert

This...210mm - 2.47:1 560 SEL diff and Lobro axles into W116.120 (78 300 SD)

I'm jealous of how purdy that is. Doing the same to my W126.....2.47.1 560 SEL diff and annular axles from 420SEL. The original LH axle started leaking from the CV boot and there is significant play in the joint.

Hit a snag, it appears the RH rear inner bearing is toast. When I pulled the axle end bolt, it was covered with rust powder. Then when I drove the axle end out of the flange, the trailing arm dropped slightly. I'm hoping there isn't any damage to other parts. Currently, I'm waiting on the special slotted socket to remove the inner slot nut of the axle flange.

It seems that every time I get into a part of the suspension, there is another part that needs attention.

How does the saying go? "If it aint one thing, it's another." I'm thinking along the lines that worn trailing arm bushings contributed to the bearing failure. DMorrison has a good write up about rear bearing replacement so I'm hoping the repair goes smoothly.

I haven't been into this area before. Any thoughts on what to look out for?

Danman · #**104** 11-19-2013, 06:19 PM

Gave the old girl a bath.

pgringo · #**105** 11-21-2013, 03:04 PM

i haven't been getting any glow for a few weeks, and when the temps dropped to 30* last week, she wouldn't start, even with a shot of wd-40. i finally got around to giving her some attention this week. glowplugs #1 & #5 were out. i went and bought bosch and the parts house employees scoffed at me for getting the $15 glowplugs instead of the $9 autolites?!

anyway, i smashed one of the tips of the dead glowplugs with a hammer, and did a little bit of reaming, then cleaned the connections to the glowplug harness with a fiberglass pen. i slapped her back together, and she starts with just a tiny flick of the key...no go-pedal pumping required.