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  #31  
Old 06-13-2013, 02:02 AM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
Posts: 882
getting it buttoned up

I got it mostly together. I am still pondering the timing chain. It doesn't have any stretch when I line up the timing marks.

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84 280sl
82 300d euro
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  #32  
Old 06-13-2013, 03:54 PM
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If this is an old timing chain and there is not an offset key fitted to the camshaft cog then you're probably not reading it right or you've got it wrong.

Take a look at chapter 05-215. It is expected that you'll see about 2 degrees of elongation after about 20,000 km
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #33  
Old 06-21-2013, 04:18 PM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
Posts: 882
timing chain master link

So I decided to go ahead with the new chain. I have it here with the master link
It has been seven or so years since my first timing chain job on the old 240d.
My manuals are at the shop. Please forgive if this is covered in the book. I am looking at the master link. I have one question that i could use help with just in case I have to order a new link.
Should the center link should just slide onto the pins easily? The links are both pretty much identical and neither slides over the pin. Pressing it in seems like it wont work. Whats the issue. Do I use the one from the old chain. That seems odd. One link does seem to have a slightly lighter blue color. I can order a new link now and I'll have it tomorrow for assembly.
Appreciated
Chris
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  #34  
Old 06-21-2013, 05:58 PM
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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This is the way the master links are delivered today.
Before they had 2 different plates, one would slide on and the other one had to be pressed on.
There must be a tool available now,to press the center plate on.
I always ream one of the plates out, until I can push it on by hand.
Be care full if you do this, it has to fit really tight on the pins.
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76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
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  #35  
Old 06-21-2013, 06:00 PM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
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I have 2 master links now.

Ill be installing the chain this weekend as long as time permits. I'll go read the FSM and figure it out.
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  #36  
Old 06-21-2013, 06:32 PM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
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I may try

That sounds like it may have to do. I wonder why they changed. I would rather press it on if I can figure it out. I just can't picture it
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  #37  
Old 06-26-2013, 03:51 AM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
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timing done

The new chain has been installed. Thanks for the tips Mog and Stretch and thanks for Brian for the rental tool. I ended up just rolling the chain through, like Mog had suggested in a another thread, by leaving the outer link off and never letting slack on the chain while rollling it in. I had no issues. A helper was thankfully available to turn the engine.
I think Ill get a new vac. pump. I don't have any extra time to search for the correct bearing. If you add up the rebuild kit with the vacuum pump bearing kit it runs the same as the pump new.
Now I have a little list of things to do on this motor still before it gets hooked up to the transmission and moved out for installation.
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  #38  
Old 06-26-2013, 06:38 AM
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For the vacuum pump I show what I chose (and why) here =>

More than you are likely to ever want to know about OM61X piston vacuum pumps

In either case - rebuilding the pump or replacing the pump (with new used or what ever) you need to check out that end play on the intermediate shaft before fitting it (also discussed in thread linked above as well as the monster one started by Beagle - link for that thread is in that thread...) because if the intermediate shaft is rattling back and forth you'll kill a healthy pump just like that.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #39  
Old 06-26-2013, 02:27 PM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
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timing device?

Can I check the endplay without removing the timing device? I would rather take off the IP if it can be measured that way. I read the article but I was not sure still. Ill have to look over the procedure for its proper removal.
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  #40  
Old 06-26-2013, 05:35 PM
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See post #35 in the thread I linked
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #41  
Old 07-10-2013, 09:41 PM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
Posts: 882
Intermediate shaft bushing replacement

Well I just measured the end play and it is 0.33 mm with .02 mm margin. It looks like I'll be getting even more of a challenge now. I've got the FSM and have read over the process.
I am eager to get this project working, but i have got a lot to do. Time is limited. It will get done one bit at a time. At least I have another ride, but I want to be in the Benz not the Ford f150. The ford is no pleasure to drive. It gets the work completed though.
Any ideas out there on a device to raise the chain out of the way to remove the timing device. I am calling my guy at the dealer to see if the special tool for that is available and affordable. I kind of doubt it.
the tool seems to be a bent pice of sheet metal to slide in there and keep the chain out of the way. its tool # 616589024000.
Wish me a steady hand.
thanks
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  #42  
Old 07-10-2013, 10:49 PM
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Do you remember this thread "9 degrees of chain stretch"? Cell did a great job of documenting the chain replacement.

This post shows the tin plate he made for the Timer.

9 degrees of chain stretch


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #43  
Old 07-11-2013, 01:12 AM
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For the functionality of that special tool I just used several screw drivers to hold up the chain away from the timing device (one the tensioner has been removed).
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #44  
Old 07-11-2013, 02:32 PM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
Posts: 882
Bearing bushing

So Ill be replacing both front and rear bearing bushings to clear up the play.
That means the IP has to come off as well.
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82 300d euro
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  #45  
Old 07-11-2013, 02:43 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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Yep the IP needs to come off if you want to sort out this intermediate shaft bearing. It is a bit of a shame that you have to go through the drip test fiasco but it is better than a deed engine...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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