OM 617.952 engine people I need your help - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

C.Doner · #46 07-11-2013, 03:10 PM

If I can get the tool. This IP has the port. I dont like doing the drip test either. I can do it with the engine out of the car though. That will be easier.
I rented it from MBDoc years ago I wonder if its available still.

C.Doner · #47 07-11-2013, 03:18 PM

It says in the FSM, if you have the head shaved ,you must adjust start of delivery. I planned on doing it anyway.

C.Doner · #48 07-12-2013, 08:11 PM

I went ahead and got the chain lifter tool off the web. It was 60$ after shipping. I hope it helps. Maybe I'll put it on the tool list for rent. It likely wont get used much after this, but I can see it helping me along.

C.Doner · #49 07-14-2013, 11:08 PM

I was looking on the other 617 engine I have apart and I cant see how the bushing comes out. I took the screw out that looks to retain it but it does not seem to have an easy way out. I measured that one and it is at the limit. 0.12mm play. It is supposed to be .05 to .12mm. I wont be using that one. I will give the dealer a call in the morning to see how long it is to get one here.
Thanks again

C.Doner · #50 07-15-2013, 12:30 AM

I am looking at the FSM. It looks like i may need to get the lock washer off still. I am just practicing on this other motor.

C.Doner · #51 07-15-2013, 02:22 PM

I just needed more light. My shop could use a better lighting setup. The lock washer was just stuck. It looked like part of the block. The thing is not to loose it in the engine. Now should I replace the entire front shaft bushing, or the bearing bushing that is inside the timing device, or both.

Stretch · #52 07-15-2013, 05:50 PM

I get the feeling that most of the wear comes from the pounding effect of the piston vacuum pump on the end of the shaft. So the front bushing should be replaced. If you do a wiggle check - like checking a valve in valve guide you should have an idea of the condition of the other. I'm guessing it will be OK - because the wear is more likely to be in the orthogonal direction to that bushing.

C.Doner · #53 07-19-2013, 12:29 PM

The brass bushing is in place. All the play has been taken up. I could not move it at all. I replaced the retaining washer as well. Only one snag came up when I pulled the old bushing out I dropped the retaining washer into the engine. I could not locate it.
I'm sure its fine I put it back together. We'll fire it up soon. It will probably just drop into the oil pan. good to go.

C.Doner · #54 07-19-2013, 12:37 PM

I really did drop it into the engine, but I fished it out with a magnet. That was slightly stressful.
The chain holding tool came in quite handy actually. It still is holding it as we speak. After fishing the washer out I called a night and cleaned up.

Stretch · #55 07-19-2013, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.Doner

I really did drop it into the engine, but I fished it out with a magnet. That was slightly stressful.
The chain holding tool came in quite handy actually. It still is holding it as we speak. After fishing the washer out I called a night and cleaned up.

There's evidence of a great DIY mechanic folks! Knowing when to stop and take a break saves you $$$$$$$$$$$

Simpler=Better · #56 07-19-2013, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Yep the IP needs to come off if you want to sort out this intermediate shaft bearing. It is a bit of a shame that you have to go through the drip test fiasco but it is better than a deed engine...

The drip isn't really that bad, I'll be making a video showing how to do it in the coming weeks.

C.Doner · #57 07-19-2013, 07:46 PM

Is on its way. I will reassemble before it is here then I'll be returning it ASAP.
I've tried the drip test once and it was a pain. I just ended up getting it as close as possible on that car and it ran very well. It is likely easier if you have the correct drip tool. Not one that is a hacked injection line, like I did. Unless you can make one exactly like the factory drip tool. My Mechanic then said I could borrow his drip tool to copy. I never got around to that. I guess they are only $20 or $30.
It will be exciting to work with this RIV tool again. I used it with my old MB mechanic friend once. It was very fast.

Stretch · #58 07-20-2013, 03:32 AM

Re: drip tube - having read around on the subject a bit I bought an old bit of injector line to adapt (tip found here somewhere - I've lost reference to the bright spark that thought of that one). Even here in expensive Holland it didn't cost me more than 3 euros if I remember correctly.

C.Doner · #59 07-20-2013, 10:16 PM

I cant find a specification for the screw retaining the bearing bushing. I just set it to about 10 nm.or approximately 7 ft lbs. The screw never really seemed to set it sort of felt soft like it wanted to strip. The torque wrench did click at 7 ft lbs. I was thinking of some thread locker there after tapping it to refresh the threads.

C.Doner · #60 08-06-2013, 12:03 PM

I have replaced the Injection timer bearing-bushing. That did take care of the play. I am now within specs for that part. The job was pretty easy. Especially with the chain holder and the RIV timing tool. I tipped front of the engine up when I removed the lower pan to help me fish out a washer. Oil came out of the rear seal after tipping it.
I believe I will try the doing this job without removing the crankshaft. The way described by Rollguy.
Does the Head have to be removed to get the crankshaft out completely. I am wondering this in case I decide to go the long route.