Looks like Mr. Doner is getting his project under control. I have an engine job
that's growing rather than shrinking. May I jump into this thread where folks are already on topic or should I start a new thread.


To make it short, I scored a cheap om617.952 and tranny off the floor of
a machinist shop, unknown history. Cold compression is:

300
110 (add oil: 190)
210 (add oil: 210)
300
285

Chain stretch via notch method: 5 degrees.
I believe this lump has good enough bones to fix up rather than start over.
I started replacing the chain but let it jump, so I can't do any more compression or leak down testing. Head's coming off, we'll be looking at bores soon.

If you have many more questions you are probably better off starting a new thread - but - I thought it was worth mentioning that you can still do a leak down test with chain off => it is indeed quite a good exercise as you can put the piston at different positions with the valves closed and get a much better idea of bore wear (if any).

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I have the head off and pictures of the head gasket and mating surfaces.

I made some mistakes checking compression, so the #2 #3 issue is less
worrisome: 1) I had left the tester's spacer behind in #1, 2) several cyl's
were missing their injector seals at test time. rtfm, rtfm, rtfm, especially when you're spending 1hr every 2 weeks on the project.

Prior to removing a spec of dirt/oil/coolant from any parts, it looks to me pretty healthy and amenable to a quick r&r. Looking for a recommended machinist in the SF bay area.

thanks,

Stuart

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I'm getting ready to do a cold compression test on this one. My spare starter just came in the mail.
It has all the oil drained and the oil filter housing needs to be cleaned well before I put it together. I dont want anything to get in the engine . The housing has been sitting out in the shop for a while and some dirt could have gotten in the channels that mate with the block. I am thinking a parts washer will do but I don't have one.
The FSM says no particles are to enter the clean oil channel at risk of clogging a piston squirter. I am thinking of pouring the parts cleaner down the housing with the filter removed. Does it seem like that will be sufficient?
I am leaning towards getting it cleaned in a parts washer at the mechanic next door to my shop. He will charge a fee but I don't have the solvent tank and I don't want to chance any plugged oilers.
I plan to oil the cylinders beforehand. Also I would like to bump the starter only slightly over and over to get oil circulating before doing the full test. I will hook up a oil psi gauge.
It would be nice to start the motor in the shop but I have no idea where to vent exhaust. Loading it onto the truck and starting it there seems possible. I will see if I can work that out. I want to see how the main seal is after running.
Well see how this goes as I have got priorities. Although I wish to be tinkering more, I'm self employed, and have a toddler. Time is limited. In due time it will come together.

__________________

Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

How do I set up this? I have a battery cable from the positive to the starter and the solenoid is on a wire with a switch. The negative is grounded to the starter. It wont crank. I forgot the voltmeter so I don't have those readings.
I am trying to do a cold compression test while the engine is still out.
Its tempting to just plug and play. Without testing or starting it first. I am getting tired of having this stuff in the way. This project needs to be finished up. Were having a late summer here so the time is ripe.

__________________

Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

if you have the positive to the starter outer big lug, and the solenoid wire touches positive, while the starter body/block of the motor is on the negative side, the starter should crank. if it does not, either the battery or the starter is bad.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

410, 375, 400, 375, 370 respectively. I'm about to mate it with the transmission and install. sweet

__________________

Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro

This engine purrs. Its ready for valve lash again. Has a bit of a rough hot idle. I may add h20 injection as it had some non removable crud on piston 1. It starts instantly and idles nicely.

__________________

Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro