Seafoam will do nothing for it... Neither will gasoline or brake parts cleaner.

Polymerized vegetable oil is some tough stuff... That is, assuming that it is VEGITABLE oil. No telling for sure what was put in there. Animal fats, other greases, motor oil, trans oil... All would be very difficult to clear out.

Your best weapon in this fight is going to be heat. Hotter the better!! Heat will help tremendously to get whatever it is flowing and breaking up and aide in flushing it out.

Plan on pulling the tank and cleaning it out thourouly. Don't try to flush thorough the engine.

Pure bio diesel is going to work great to clear it up. Hardware store paint asile Naptha works well as a solvent for VO.

__________________
Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"

Ok cool thanks I have a good source of clear lightly used Peanut Oil (about 50 gallons in jugs).Yea Im familiar with DieselGiant great website I just never came across anything like this.

I talked to a buddy of mine who's Dad's one of the biggest diesel mechanics in town he just cracked each injector while it was running and verified each injector is getting fuel and said it should be getting alot more fuel than what it is.He's building a lift and says I'm more than welcome to use it when it's built and he'll help,stand-up guy!

He agreed with you guys and said it's more than likely the IP got clogged since some of the tar got past the pre-filter I am running fresh diesel and everything else is seeming to check-out.

Pic of the original pre-filter that came with the car:

Pic of the original fuel-straineryou've been warned)


And a pic of the car,she's a beaut just sorry to see her with that bad of fuel..Now you guys know what I'm up against

I hope and prey you are kidding....

I also hope that you either a replaced that tank or had it boiled out by a radiator shop...

__________________

good example of why I will never run fryoil in my Benz's. I've seen several examples of this yukky stuff!
Also you have to clean the supply lines, the steel fuel lines to and from the front of the car to the fuel tank (2). Someone was advising buying pipe cleaner in 25 ft rolls. Another person had to replace the line. That is no fun!
I would try running hot solvent thru it first and definitelyhave the tank cleaned by a professional.

__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Replace the tank. Find someone parting out a 300D and buy the tank.

Forget PNP, even though they sell the tanks for (I believe) $39, they list that they "May Have Holes." Nothing may about it, they all do. they punch big holes in them with a Digging Bar to drain.

Forget the 80 - 83 240D, they have a 17 gallon tank. 79 and earlier and all 300D`s have a 21 gal.

Remove a IP from PNP, they are about $50. Remove the fuel line that comes up from the Feed Pump, and push the Primer Pump, a little fuel will come out, see if it is Diesel or WVO.

Might be a job to do, but remove the Fuel Lines from the same car. Front to rear. Or you can make your own.

Federal Hill Trading Company Easy to form and won`t rust. may be a bit pricy though.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I would triple filter it,dewater it and then run extra fuel filters,it'd look like clear honey..unlike the PO who must've just went straight from the kitchen to the tank lol...but the way this car's been used I doubt I may ever..and yes as of now I have basically trashed the tank..going to keep watching the pnp in my area and hope they forget stabbing holes in a tank..hate seeing that..A brand new tank with 7 holes stabbed into it..what a shame.

As of now just finished a oil change and am planning on tomorrow being a busy day,fighting these deer flies SUCKS.Really hard to get anything done on it when you're constantly swatting deer flies.

Thanks Charlie great advice,just what I was thinking!Good to hear it from another person BTW I know a few skilled welders,my neighbor actually makes marine fuel tanks for a living,I was considering finding the best one they have at PNP and trying to get it rewelded for $30 it's worth a shot..And our neighbor kinda owes us a favor anyways for fixing his outboard motor a while back
Is there a write-up on removing a IP somewhere?Pretty straight-forward?I know they have to be timed,and to not go too deep into them as they are very sensitive and require being serviced by Bosch etc. I'm going to do a little googlin on the matter,anyways thanks again!

Well this thread is no longer worth my time....

I suggest if you plan on re running wvo in it....that you don't do anything to it....will just happen again...

Also suggest this gets moved to the alternative fuel section....

There's a wagon on the cl alert thread...that was killed by wvo....you outta pick that one up too....start a collection...

1984 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Wagon

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You're right maybe I should!
That's a very nice wagon for a grand!

I've already got a spare car with a good motor that'd go right in it lol..

Once I got them all running right I'd have a great batch of old Mercs that'd last a lifetime and btw this is coming from someone who rescued one isn't it

And honestly nowhere in the near future am I going to be running this on WVO please I don't want this thread to turn into a WVO war,so please don't try to turn it into one,and even if I was and it was done correctly from the sounds of it it may even clean out my system..lol get off my back mate!
ITS NOT GOING TO HAVE WVO RUN THROUGH IT,you happy now?

Sheeeesh

Because of where the tank is in most of these cars (basically in the trunk), the wrecking yards just cut the lines underneath to drain the fuel. Most of the yards around here just leave the tanks there. You should be able to find a good one. BTW, between my bro and I we have over 100,000 combined WVO miles on our cars since first starting to run it. If done correctly, it is wonderful stuff. If not done correctly, well, you know what happens.

__________________

All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

Quote of the year my friend

thx!

Dude, why do you want to run unfiltered WVO in the car? That's just a really bad idea.

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Depending how long the veg sat it could be very difficult if not impossible to clean the tank and the steel fuel lines. It'd be a lot less work to replace them. If you want to try the cleaning route, I'd suggest running some tests with small pieces of veg scrapings in a small jar with different solvents and see which works best before going full scale.

You don't show a location but if you're near me I have access to a tank (diesel only). I also have a system to replace the steel lines with clear nylon that is quick and works great . PM me if interested.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I think he's in Florida.

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

I can see why the 'Puritans' are against WVO....

Its just the fact that Idiot Co's have converted cars and mis-lead their customers as to What can be used as fuel.

Sounds a fairly easy job to clean this one up.

Replace tank--Or steam/caustic wash the original. Obtain new, or caustic-wash the Gauze tank-filter.

Replace the fuel-del. lines under the car--Use hard Nylon line and ferrules at each end, with new rubber-pipe to attach each end. 6mm ID diameter is original size.

New Pre-filter and main filter obviously.--Remove strip and clean the main fuel-filter head, its banjo-bolts and fittings. Replace all rubber-fuel-lines at engine end of car.

As the engine is running--probably the main I.P. has survived.

Strip, clean and re-build lift-pump. Iso-propyl alcohol will dissolve a lot of the cruddy semi-solid veggy-oil/WMO mixtures.
Nasty tarry stuff in system probably veg and WMO mixture--polymerises into nasty stuff....

(--Source of 'WMO' into system--even running just on veggy--is a leaking Lift-Pump seal.....
First sign of lift-pump seal leak running veg.is blocking main filter full of black crud.
--On diesel--no problem, there's no 'compatability' issue--but there IS with veg-oil, causes that tarry crud.)

After that and putting the system back as it should be plumbing-wise, and you've got most of it done.
--Not That bad--was it!

Change engine-oil--cheapo diesel-oil--as wont be in there long.....

Arrange a Wallpaper Steamer to allow steam into air-intake, run engine at 1500-2000 RPM on std. Diesel and boil 2-3 quarts of water into it from steamer.--May take an hour or two.

--This will remove any ring-gumming, and deposits on valves.

Change engine-oil again and re-set valve clearances.

By this time, all should be fairly well with it. Fuel it with Good fuel--and enjoy!

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....