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#1
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In a Bind
So, posted a W.T.B. advert, but since this is my daily driver, in a bind, so figure the extra coverage might help.
I decided on Saturday to replace my U.C.A. as tires are squealing in the University parking garage ramps. Each side took about an hour, however, I was tired and not thinking when I believed the manual saying the sway bar bolt takes 65 foot pounds. So now I have to replace the sway bar. Tried an extractor, but never got that far as bolt is too hard to punch and the break means the bit is walking. Tried a 8mm drill bit, but it is as useless as a wood stick because of the hardened steel. Now the only thing to show after an hour is a chewed up end of the sway bar... I rather just replace and be done. So, anyone have a front W123 wagen sway bar? Thank you in advance!
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#2
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Uhh... you're aware just about everything on the firewall including the brake booster and master cylinder has to come off to replace the front sway bar, right? Check the archives for alternatives but I understand welding on a new end is the more rational choice.
Sixto 87 300D |
#3
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The repair ends are for 24mm, not 25mm. That mean paying a machine shop with limited Student funds to enlarge and weld. Spring steel isn't something that is every day welding, B.T.W..
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. Last edited by Adriel; 09-02-2013 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Edit |
#4
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So, went out and bought a Dremel, going off a friends suggestion of possibly being able to flatten the area. Well, did flatten, but the Dremel got too hot for my liking. I have the hardest drill bit, and just not biting in. There is no other drill bit harder, therefore, if I can't drill the pilot hole, I can't get the extractor started to turn out the broken bit. It also means I can't buy a 8mm drill bit and drill it out. Only option is spend a week and pull the sway bar. Also, need to find one, hopefully used.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#5
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Sorry to hear of the troubles.
Try a cobalt drill bit with lots of cutting oil and a very slow speed. (Just in case #1 => The spec for the bolt is 65 Nm - that's just under 48 ft lbs) (Just in case #2 => wagon W123 sway bars have a larger diameter than the other variants)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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Yep, cobalt bit, for which paid a pretty penny for Irwin. Ah! My manual states 65 foot pounds, so bet a mistranslation, as using Haynes as factory manual is very lacking. Only thing on the front end is how to remove the spindle, I.I.R.C.. Because of this, going to get paper factory manuals in the future; first need to address this and then see how the suspension is. Tram insisted sway bars were all the same, however, I know better, as true across most if not all the manufactures. In this case, 24mm versus 25mm. I found one, we just need to find the bolts, which aren't standard: M8x1.5 or 1.75, 17mm hex, and 2mm shank. Just nuts!
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#7
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PM sent
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#8
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Correction
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A slow steady cut Solid carbide tool works great... Straight Flute Die Drills (USA) http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2LMXE Drill Bits Carbide Straight Flute, Spade Drill, Inch Number Letter, Metric .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#9
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Another option:
This often works well but each situation is different, your mileage may vary, etc....... Get a nut of about the right size for the broken bolt. Weld it onto the stub (maybe just the end will be visible) of the broken bolt. WHILE IT'S STILL HOT back out the bolt. If you don't have access to welding gear have a mobile welder come out. It'll still be quicker and cheaper. Be sure the car is up high enough for the welder to get in there and make sure you have a reasonably clean and dry surface for him/her to work off of - it'll be cheaper. Dan |
#10
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Thank you all for your help!
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This has been somewhat of a positive situation, as the battery tray needs attention (caught just in time as major surface rust, but no holes), the body under the tray needs a good cleaning, and the sway bar mounts are hard as rocks. Yes, I could go many more miles with hard sway bar mounts, but will help improve the ride quality for which Mercedes is known for. Might even help with the passenger side sag. Quote:
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#11
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I can't know for sure but I get the feeling that you've run the bit at too high a speed.
A cobalt drill bit is essentially a normal bit with a coating on it - if you drill with this at a high speed - allow it to get hot - the coating gets gone. You should operate these bits at a slow hand drill type of speed with lots of cutting oil / even WD40 (if you have to) to keep it cool.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#12
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I use A.T.F. for cutting fluid now, as have a big bottle in Sandy Eggo so don't feel like buying another. I use A.T.F. from an antique oiling can, and this time has about a third of Kroil. The can lost its propellant, so jabbed a Phillips screw driver through it and poured some out. I have most of the master cylinder out and just got to access the one nut, once that is off and the booster out of the way, can start in pulling the sway bar. I can fiddle for hours with no results or just get it done and over with. Say got about two hours at most in, and relaxed pace; hast makes waste! Figure even if it takes eight hours, way more enjoyable than in the wheel well going deaf and hurting! My arthritis no longer likes me being in a ball...
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. Last edited by Adriel; 09-03-2013 at 01:45 AM. Reason: Es ist spate! |
#13
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As long as you are replacing the Sway Bar, it would be a good time to replace the 2 large Bushings on the Firewall. one under the Battery and one under the Brake booster.
Part# 123-323-12-85 or World pak# W0133-1807027, this is for the wagon 300TD. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#14
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Quote:
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#15
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Quote:
Quote:
Yesterday, made some progress. Got the booster out and the mounts un-done. Found out the manual is wrong, and have to remove the U.C.A. I just installed. Bummer... But, practice makes perfect! Also found when the master cylinder was replaced, the brake fluid wasn't drained from the booster. That will shed a couple pounds!
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. Last edited by Adriel; 09-04-2013 at 01:11 PM. Reason: Nicht gut! |
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